New to the scene....help

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Gjh1107
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New to the scene....help

Post by Gjh1107 » Fri May 18, 2018 9:33 am

Hi guys, just want to say hi. I very recently acquired a 2005 rx8 with a few issues so lets start with those first. When I bought it it was hunting really badly, lack of power in low revs and has the dreaded warm/ hot start issue (also seems to struggle a little bit from cold but not too bad).
I have replaced the battery as it was quite old and put new NGK Irridium plugs in which has help the hunting issue. However the starting issue is still there and I was wondering is it work changing the coil packs and leads?
Are there any specialists around Norfolk that could help me, possibly do a compression test (hopefully the engine isn't shot) even though this is the outcome I'm leaning towards.

Any help or advice would be greatly received.

Thanks :thumright:

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Re: New to the scene....help

Post by Delanor » Fri May 18, 2018 9:58 am

:welcome:

If anyone is contemplating buying an RX-8 then your first port of call should be a compression test if that is satisfactory followed by an ignition system check of Battery, plugs,leads & coils.

Then if all is well there that is half your battle.

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Re: New to the scene....help

Post by Conan » Fri May 18, 2018 10:16 am

Hi and welcome to the forum,
Buy a tin of Cataclean and run that through it to see if there is an improvement and let us know.
Regards
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PS: You may want to put the old plugs back in for this but not vital
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Re: New to the scene....help

Post by PeteH » Fri May 18, 2018 1:17 pm

Your best bet for specialists depends whereabouts in Norfolk you are. If you are up near Kings Lyne then it's worth a trip to see bigpete (he's a trader on here, although he is on holiday for a couple of weeks). If you are below Norwich then your best bet will be Carl at RRP (Ryan Rotary Performance). He's also a trader on here.

Both of these guys are really helpful, will only give you great advice, and can do all the checks you need. Bigpete breaks cars, so he can sell you any used parts you may need, such as coils and leads. Carl focusses on new parts, so can sell you a vast range of shiny things 8) . If you do have poor compression then bigpete can probably sell you a great used engine, and Carl would be delighted to do you an engine rebuild. A little word of warning though. Carl does some pretty cool engines, and you just might get sucked into buying something pretty special!

I'm near Diss, so if you want me to have a quick look over your car I'd be happy to (I can't do anything useful like a compression test though...)

Good luck.
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Re: New to the scene....help

Post by RX8765 » Fri May 18, 2018 1:38 pm

Jimmy's Mazda Rotary Specialists are located in Hoveton, not used them before but they worked on my car for the previous owner.

jimmys-rx7.co.uk

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Re: New to the scene....help

Post by PeteH » Fri May 18, 2018 1:42 pm

If I remember correctly, they don't have a rotary compression tester, which is why I didn't mention them. I might be wrong though.... :-k
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Re: New to the scene....help

Post by acegeezer » Fri May 18, 2018 1:48 pm

What made you buy it with those symptoms, hope you didn't pay a lot :(
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Re: New to the scene....help

Post by Shagrington » Sat May 19, 2018 4:50 am

Hi and :welcome: Gjh1107. :) You ncan find contact details for bigpete (aka Boston Rotary) and Ryan Rotary performance in the traders section of the forum or in the list of known specialists here https://www.rx8ownersclub.co.uk/forum/v ... 25&t=36531
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Re: New to the scene....help

Post by Gjh1107 » Sat May 19, 2018 9:01 am

Hi guys thanks for your replies. Yes I am in kings lynn so either of those guys could be of use to me thank you.
I didn’t pay a lot for the car and it was on a whim admittedly, but I had worst case scenario in mind when buying it.
I have always wanted a Mazda rotary vehicle and am used to having troublesome cars (had land rovers most of my life lol), so don’t mind doing the work on them.....I just don’t have a clue when it comes to rotary engines.

If it does need a rebuild or new engine I’m not sure which route to take as I would like to use it on track days as well as I have other vehicles I can use daily.

What cat clean should I use, are there any other sensors I could possibly check or clean up?? Looking through the history one of the previous owners used euro car parts for coils etc so I’m guessing they are not genuine parts. This may have been the reason things are failing or have failed as the fuel hasn’t been burnt properly...maybe.
Thanks for your input and anymore informative information my ears are always open.

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Re: New to the scene....help

Post by qwakers » Sat May 19, 2018 9:16 am

get it compression tested, of its ok pull the cat off and check the core. once thats checked out go to rotary revs, ryan rotary performance, mazda rotary parts or any of the other traders on here and order a new set of coils and leads. if its slow starting cold and hot its well worth plugging a obd reader into it and seeing what speed its cranking over. a new starter and battery could transform it. but thats the order id look at it.

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Re: New to the scene....help

Post by Gjh1107 » Sat May 19, 2018 9:33 am

Thanks, I’m going to give Carl a call in a little while and ask about a compression test. 👍

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Re: New to the scene....help

Post by Dazza44 » Sat May 19, 2018 9:54 am

Boston rotary would probably be the nearest(bigpete),he does comp test etc...

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Re: New to the scene....help

Post by SeeJay » Sat May 19, 2018 6:01 pm

Bear in mind,Bigpete has currently gone to Lanzarotti for a week or so,on his jols ;)
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Re: New to the scene....help

Post by 350matt » Sat May 19, 2018 8:03 pm

you can do a compression test yourself with a regular gunsons compression tester
just remove the 1 way valve in the end and have your assistant crank the engine over whilst you watch the gauge
all the needle 'bounces ' should reach the same point and be over 6 bar, 7 bar ideally
and don't forget to pull the 20A fuel pump fuse 1st

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Re: New to the scene....help

Post by Shagrington » Sat May 19, 2018 8:22 pm

Gjh1107 wrote:
Sat May 19, 2018 9:01 am
If it does need a rebuild or new engine I’m not sure which route to take as I would like to use it on track days as well as I have other vehicles I can use daily.

What cat clean should I use, are there any other sensors I could possibly check or clean up?? Looking through the history one of the previous owners used euro car parts for coils etc so I’m guessing they are not genuine parts. This may have been the reason things are failing or have failed as the fuel hasn’t been burnt properly...maybe.
Thanks for your input and anymore informative information my ears are always open.
I believe the reputable rebuilders' warranty on their engines allows for track use.

Cataclean is used by many here a couple of times a year and yes you are almost certainly right about the coils - get genuine Mazda coils from pretty much any of the specialists and traders on the forum or upgrade to D585 and similar - Ryan Rotary have their own as do Rotary Revs and Essex Rotary have BHR coils.

For informative info, this is probably as good as I can manage - Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read :study: and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:

1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).

2. Never [-X turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real :censored: with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).

3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (more people are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.

4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it :twisted: ) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great. ;)

5. Join the club for discounts on all sorts of things (you will very quickly get the cost of membership back - and then some), loads more info in the members only sections, local meets (or if you can't find one exactly local it is a good excuse for a drive if you come to one a bit further away), a sexy keyring just for joining and more. :thumright:
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