Rust Treatment : where to go?

[Mc2g]

Hi everybody,

As a lot of our RX8 i guess, mine got a lot of rust underneath, and i've no space to work on it myself for at least the next 2 years, but this rust problem is getting me more and more nervous.

i Asked the guys at RRevs, but they don't offer this service anymore, Do you know any company that can offer this kind of job ?
I'm in Cambridge but i'm willing to go far if the car can get the perfect treatment

thank you in advance !

[Techathy]

I'm going to ask at the garage I get my Lotus serviced at this Friday - they do full classic car restorations so I'm expecting they'll know who to contact or take on this work themselves.

[Honkytonk]

I too would be interested in this, it's very difficult to find somewhere openly willing to do rust-related work.

As things like Krown rust proofing up in Brum have found, a good relationship with the owners club can pay dividends!

[PaulAV]

Believe there is a thread with an owners club discount on rust treatment

[PaulAV]

Believe there is a thread with an owners club discount on rust treatment

Krown up in Birmingham, but I don't think they do the "full package", it's more a "keep it clean" treatment. I'm sure they do fantastic work but some of us need a bit more TLC than that...

[Techathy]

The suggestion I've had is to look for classic car restoration companies. They'll either have fabrication skills in-house or have a pool of trusted fabricators who they get in.

[RX8R3Rod]

Rustbuster in Spalding is a bit of a drive, they absolutely know what they’re about and can do cutting and welding if required. Last time I was they’d just finished a deTomasa Mangusta and Pantera

[Torque23]

This reminds me actually - I spoke to Krown about my car, including sending them pictures (check my thread for the gory details of what that's like), and received the below very well thought out and helpful response from them.

TLDR; if your inner drivers rear sills withstand a hammer then you're probably okay, don't worry about flaky stuff as it'll be cleaned or be sorted by the free top up 6 months later.

Your concerns are very understandable, the inhibitor that we use is designed to stop all existing rust as it is non - drying and it soaks deep into the existing rust repelling moisture and ultimately stopping it going any further. However, looking at your car I suspect that the inner sills might be rusted through already, if so, the treatment cannot reverse this and they need to be replaced before the treatment. To be honest, your car doesn't look too bad by RX8 standards, I would suggest to give a firm tap with a hammer to the inner sills, especially on the drivers side towards the rear, this is the first spot that usually rusts through and if they appear solid, I'm quite confident that the treatment will keep them that way.
I can also see some flaking on the chassis parts, we are cleaning all the flakiness off with a wirebrush and air blower, but we may need to ask you to pop back in 6 months time after the treatment for a quick, free top up. The inhibitor tends to loosen up all the flaky rust and it may fall off revealing some untreated surfaces, therefore we blast all the flaky bits off and give it another coat to make sure it lasts.
Also, if we do find any nastynes during the treatment (rust holes), we would offer you to treat that area again for free once it is repaired.
The bottom line would be: if you are definitely keeping the car, we would highly recommend to have the treatment done as soon as possible, but if you are in doubt where there to keep the car or not, depending on it's condition, I would suggest to check the sills thoroughly first.
Regards
Robert

This may help others decide if Krown is right, or if they need something more drastic. I'm actually quite happy to hear them say "Your car doesn't look too bad by RX8 standards"

[Techathy]

The suggestion I've had is to look for classic car restoration companies. They'll either have fabrication skills in-house or have a pool of trusted fabricators who they get in.

Oops forgot to say, I didn't get to talk to anyone about this when I dropped the car off. I'll ask when I get the car back after service, repairs, etc. - currently unknown time frame due to required parts on backorder.

[Techathy]

Okay, so Castle Sports Cars, Bishop's Stortford do rust removal and chassis repair. However, their chassis restorations often run into thousands.

[Ollie]

Thats sadly the reality with getting rust repairs done. Sometimes its hard/impossible to gauge how much their is. If half the chasis needs cutting out/replacing then of course its going to cost a small fortune. Tis why getting a clean RX8 is the best route to go even if the engine goes pop.

[Keke]

After reading this, I thought I'd call a local classic car specialist and ask what they would offer, and they basically said, they spay the underneath with compressed air then apply wax oil or the other brand with I forgot the name of, and it takes around a days labour, roughly £500, so it sounds like the guys in the middlands are a great price, as I can't see how much would come off with an air gun?. And there work is top notch,. So I would say, get the rot cut out and welded, then get a coating of some sort on?


Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

[30405]

Thats sadly the reality with getting rust repairs done. Sometimes its hard/impossible to gauge how much their is. If half the chasis needs cutting out/replacing then of course its going to cost a small fortune. Tis why getting a clean RX8 is the best route to go even if the engine goes pop.

*puts fingers in ears*

LALALALALALALALALALA

[Ollie]

Thats sadly the reality with getting rust repairs done. Sometimes its hard/impossible to gauge how much their is. If half the chasis needs cutting out/replacing then of course its going to cost a small fortune. Tis why getting a clean RX8 is the best route to go even if the engine goes pop.

*puts fingers in ears*

LALALALALALALALALALA

Whats that Duncan... Is it denial I sense?!

[Honkytonk]

It's not denial if I deny it is.

[Nicklaus]

Read this article on Pistonheads this week so this place might be one to consider.

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/top ... &t=1852912



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Keke]

To prove that your phones track everything you do! This popped up on my Facebook page.

Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

[New Duke]

Read this article on Pistonheads this week so this place might be one to consider.

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/top ... &t=1852912



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So their protection/inhibitor level is similar to Krown, but this one is much more expensive and takes days, with a shorter warranty given.

The reply Duncan got from Krown speaks volumes. Having stood and watched them work for hours on my RX8 they really are the best bet at the moment.

[Honkytonk]

To be contrary here, I do think that's a legitimate option if you're in need of welding as well. I didn't realise they had appeared on PH, but a friend of mine who has about 5 land rovers at any one time has used them in the past and rates them highly, and they were in my list of possibles.

I'll personally be using Krown I think, but next time I have the car up a ramp if it's worse than I feared underneath and needs a lot done, I may well go with SWRP just to get the satisfaction of a one stop treatment that can be trusted.

The more options listed here the better and whilst Krown have proven themselves excellent, there's no harm in others suggesting different outfits.

[Dove66]

Mine’s booked in with Krown for the end of March.

[untakenname]

My 04 RX8 had a really bad case of ringworm which went from the sills right into the main chassis so I bought a low mileage Kuro and swapped out the engine into it, would have liked to keep the original car but fixing it properly was ten times more expensive than buying a clean non runner rx8.

I put Bilt hamber products into the sills (forgot which one) and then keep ontop of the rest with ACF50 and if I go out on the salted roads then rinse down the wheel arches and sills, luckily this year in the SE has been pretty mild so not much salt.

My other car (WRX) looked mint when I bought it but has rusted from the inside out in the struts due to the factory sound deadening trapping moisture, I've decided to fix it myself which is a bit of a learning curve.

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/top ... 4662.78102

Not sure what's up with Japanese cars to make them rust so bad, my Saab was out in the weather day in day out and when it was scrapped after 20 years on the road it still had only light surface corrosion.

[warpc0il]

They don't use salt on the roads in Japan, so they don't have to worry nearly as much about anti-corrosion treatments.
I've seen 20 year old JDM imports arrive and the only rust on them is from the previous 2 weeks at sea.

OTOH Our Skoda is four years old than my 8, plus it lives outside 200 yards from the sea while the 8 is tucked-up in a garage with a dehumidifier.
The Skoda barely has any rust at all, just on a few bolt heads underneath, and the Witter towbar