Mishimoto Oil Line Routing

[Bullet5]

Good evening everyone,

I've a quick question for you all in regards to the Mishimoto oil line that runs from the back of the engine under the oil filter to the drivers side radiator. The only online resource I've managed to find that mentions how to run the lines for this specific kit are a short video by 13Black, where it's recommended that the 45 degree line runs up from the back of the engine in a loop then back down under the front cross member to the other hose that then finishes that run over to the driver's side oil cooler, due to the length of this joint hose (mishimoto really should look into providing a shorter hose in my opinion for this run).

With the system being pressurised I don't think there would be a problem with this layout, other than the fact it'll develop an air gap that would surely very quickly flushed out after startup? I've attached an image below, does anyone have any gripes about the location before I begin piecing the car back together tomorrow evening? If there's no issue with this then I'll extend this topic with some photos on how I've run my hoses.

Cheers for taking the time to look,
Bullet5.

P.S. For those of you who can't see the below image, here's a shortcut to the Google Photos album that should work: https://photos.app.goo.gl/EhZH2jnm58dGeqZAA

P.P.S For anyone who can't see that either, picture a big braided line running at a 1 o'clock turn (if facing the car from the front) upwards, away from the base of the oil filter, looping up between the intake MAF and the ABS pump, to virtually the same height as the top of the brake lines running out the top of the ABS unit, then down under the front cross member.

[Scartlead]

I fitted mine, not too long ago. That line I’d installed slightly differently, pointing up towards the washer bottle to start with and looped down past the air on compressor. Take a pic if you need it?

[Bullet5]

I fitted mine, not too long ago. That line I’d installed slightly differently, pointing up towards the washer bottle to start with and looped down past the air on compressor. Take a pic if you need it?

If you wouldn't mind it's certainly be of help for others too. It sounds as though you've a similar loop to myself all be it, looping closer to the water bottle.

Cheers for posting,
Bullet5.

[Scartlead]

Hard to get good pics, but hopefully gives you some sort of idea.

[leeroy69]

Hi
Planning on fitting Mishimoto lines in the next week or two. (Not ordered them yet) Do they not replace the original lines as in follow the original pipe route ?
Cheers Lee

[Scartlead]

Pretty much bar the one above, which is slightly different.

[Bullet5]

Cheers Scartlead. That looks like a preferable run to what I have done, however as mine is now in place I'll tighten and see how it runs tomorrow.

For future reference, with the four hose kit:

The hose that has a built in 45 degree end and a straight at the other runs between the bottom of the oil filter stem and the middle of the front cross member, with the straight end bring under the cross member.

The hose that joins this and then heads over to the drivers side radiator (UK car), has a straight end that sits below the cross member (and joins the previous hose with a provided male to male coupler), and terminates with a built in 90 degree end.

The next is a hose that runs from one radiator to the other. This has two built in 90 degree ends.

The final one runs between the passanger side radiator and the passanger side of the engine just infront of the engine support bracket. This utilises both of the separate 90 degree banjo fittings.

Torque specs for the banjos can be found on Mishimoto's sale page for this product on their own website. Removing the original hard line oil pipe that runs from the bottom of the oil filter to the front of the engine (after which it turns into a rubber hose), is the most difficult part to remove.

Some people say you need to remove the AC compressor. You don't, but you will need a junior hacksaw and ideally a mini hacksaw too to get into the harder to reach places. The air box accordian (and maf) will need removing, and the coils will also need removing to aid access to this line. The airbox doesn't need removing but I'd highly suggest removing the battery and it's tray to aid in tightening up the connection that will be here and to help provide access to fasten the hoses under the cross member. The front lower half of the wheel arch liners have to come off, along with the plastic cover/sump guard under the engine.

You will need some way of getting the car in the air. You will be working under it and from inside the wheel arches quite a lot.

Good luck.

[13Black]

I've found that you do have to remove the AC compressor to install the rear line tucked behind it and under the coil bracket, if that's the way you want to run it. That's the route I was advised by someone who runs a certain engine shop that may have helped design them with Mishi