How to fit a Vent Pod and Oil/Water Sensors
- ChrisHolmes
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Re: How to fit a Vent Pod and Oil/Water Sensors
Thanks that's healthy, Mazda state minimum 3 bar at 3000rpm
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- Scartlead
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Re: How to fit a Vent Pod and Oil/Water Sensors
Pretty sturdy A little top heavy with everything fitted, but fine and also havent glued it down, just clicked into place.Mpv2k3 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 05, 2018 4:32 pmReally need to sort some gauges out for the R3. And work out what exactly to buy for set up as the sandwich plate won't fit, so from what I read, it's a banjo bolt jobbie. It's beyond me
Thinking of oil pressure, oil temp and water temp gauges.
Also, how sturdy are the vent 3pod holders?
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Re: How to fit a Vent Pod and Oil/Water Sensors
That looks like you could benefit from a mousemat
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=53888
Getting the oil at (or ideally above) 100C is key to driving any condensed water out.
It also shows how much cooler it's been in NI vs England over the last few days.
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=53888
Getting the oil at (or ideally above) 100C is key to driving any condensed water out.
It also shows how much cooler it's been in NI vs England over the last few days.
- Scartlead
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Re: How to fit a Vent Pod and Oil/Water Sensors
Heat wave? what? Not over here lol.
Thanks Dave, food for thought
Thanks Dave, food for thought
- Ninja_Freak
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Re: How to fit a Vent Pod and Oil/Water Sensors
Scartlead, where did you get your gauge pod?
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Re: How to fit a Vent Pod and Oil/Water Sensors
I got my Triple Pod Gauge Holder from that Company too
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Sent from my ASUS_A001 using Tapatalk
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Re: How to fit a Vent Pod and Oil/Water Sensors
Curious, did it come with the switch?GreySilver Beast wrote: ↑Tue Aug 07, 2018 10:59 pmI got my Triple Pod Gauge Holder from that Company too
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How to fit a Vent Pod and Oil/Water Sensors
The switch is for the HUD
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- Ninja_Freak (Thu Aug 09, 2018 9:46 pm)
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Re: How to fit a Vent Pod and Oil/Water Sensors
Scartlead wrote: ↑Sun Aug 05, 2018 6:23 pmPretty sturdy A little top heavy with everything fitted, but fine and also havent glued it down, just clicked into place.Mpv2k3 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 05, 2018 4:32 pmReally need to sort some gauges out for the R3. And work out what exactly to buy for set up as the sandwich plate won't fit, so from what I read, it's a banjo bolt jobbie. It's beyond me
Thinking of oil pressure, oil temp and water temp gauges.
Also, how sturdy are the vent 3pod holders?
What size gauges are these? 52mm or 60mm
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How to fit a Vent Pod and Oil/Water Sensors
Block8Head can make 52mm or 60mm Holders for the Vents
I went for 60mm
I went for 60mm
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Re: How to fit a Vent Pod and Oil/Water Sensors
My advice is to have the oil temp sensor before the radiator do their job. hot side of oil temp is interested and needed to be kept "in check". cold side will give you very little information (without temp gauge before the radiator) they give no information actually.
Oil temp regulation is running in a "feedback" loop. ie, based on the oil inlet temperature (hot side) the radiators are sent more or less oil to cool down.
ie it can happen that for a set oil temp of 80C (lets assume that is the set temp for our thermostats in oil radiators)
You have a hot side coming in at 80C The regulator doesn't have to work at all and send the oil without cooling the oil and you have am oil temp of 80C measured at the cold side towards the engine. and engine is so low load that it doesn't heat the oil at all and oil continues to be at 80C.
Than you can have for example 120 hot side. and oil regulator want go obtain the hot side of 80C. it will try to cool the oil untill it get 80C from hot side. this might mean that it reduces the oil temp all the way to 60C (giving you a false "not overheated - safe" on gauge) and the oil is under such a huge load it raises the oil temp by 60 degree and making it in to water.
The only point when the temp gauge before engine is "nice to have" bt might be to late is when the radiators cannot cool the oil sufficiently and it start to raise the temp beyond the "safe" hot limit on the inlet. by this time the engine is under huge stress and possible damage as the oil in the engine while it reaches the bearings and other surfaces gets super hot.
Oil temp regulation is running in a "feedback" loop. ie, based on the oil inlet temperature (hot side) the radiators are sent more or less oil to cool down.
ie it can happen that for a set oil temp of 80C (lets assume that is the set temp for our thermostats in oil radiators)
You have a hot side coming in at 80C The regulator doesn't have to work at all and send the oil without cooling the oil and you have am oil temp of 80C measured at the cold side towards the engine. and engine is so low load that it doesn't heat the oil at all and oil continues to be at 80C.
Than you can have for example 120 hot side. and oil regulator want go obtain the hot side of 80C. it will try to cool the oil untill it get 80C from hot side. this might mean that it reduces the oil temp all the way to 60C (giving you a false "not overheated - safe" on gauge) and the oil is under such a huge load it raises the oil temp by 60 degree and making it in to water.
The only point when the temp gauge before engine is "nice to have" bt might be to late is when the radiators cannot cool the oil sufficiently and it start to raise the temp beyond the "safe" hot limit on the inlet. by this time the engine is under huge stress and possible damage as the oil in the engine while it reaches the bearings and other surfaces gets super hot.