Passenger door lock actuator jigsaw puzzle

[rotatopotato]

Over the last couple of days I've had the lock actuator in and out of the car as I'd replaced the motor in it but hadn't glued the unit shut, which caused it to open slightly and stop working via central locking.

I've since sorted that part out, but in the mean time I've managed to get it into a state where the manual lock inside the door no longer works.

I've managed to figure out that it's to do with the pin in the flappy gear that is moved by both the motor and another flappy bit in the top of the case (which connects to the lever which is in turn connected to the cable going to the manual lock in the door handle).

I can get it to lock, but it doesn't then return to unlocked when flicked back. It's something to do with the gold spring (I assume it is a spring) inside the top flapper, which I think is supposed to pop the pin out of the retaining slot for the unlock action. I believe the pin is supposed to end up 'trapped' at the end of the unlock action, with the spring providing tension to pop it back out again as it moves through the lock action.

Either that or the spring acts as a guide for the pin, which is being moved along its slot by the big gear. Only issue is this would suggest that you can either lock or unlock from inside the car but not both, as the big gear is only moved by the motor. That doesn't seem right but I'll confess I've rarely (if ever) locked/unlocked from the passengers seat so I'm not sure what the normally available options are

Anyway, I can't for the life of me manage to figure out how to set it correctly so that it works both ways (and when I set it with the pin 'locked' it doesn't move at all). If anyone else has done this and managed to figure it out, please enlighten me!

A couple of photos to hopefully show what I mean:

Spring is used to pop the pin out from locked (sits 'under' the pin)?

IMG_20220512_135202.jpg

Spring is used to guide the pin (or pushes against it to move the flapper)?

IMG_20220512_135223.jpg

Any help appreciated, this is driving me mad!

[rotatopotato]

Oh here's what I mean by top and bottom flappers, too.

The too flapper has been taken off and is resting on the worm gear, the bottom flapper holds the sliding pin, is moved by the gear wheel or top flapper, and actuates the lock lever:

IMG_20220512_135544.jpg

[Delanor]

I added this commet to my DIY fix "The only thing I would add here is make sure you do not interfere with any of the gearing of the levers or you will have fun trying to work out how it all works."

Far be it for me to discourage you from completing your task but when I discovered you can replace the motor I disturbed the mechanism on mine and trying to fathom out how it all works is a mammoth undertaking, the position of all parts is critical to the timing and action how it all works, it all has to lock the door and then reverse, the gold wire is a spring I sort of figured out where it went but never got it all working properly because it needs to be back in the door to prove it.

If you are intent on carrying on then it helps to clean all the grease out so its clearer whats going on and have a 12 volt supply to get it all moving you have to swap the contacts on the lock to reverse the action.

Like I said if you open the lock and just swap the motor you shouldn`t have a problem but disturb the gearing or leverage then its all down to trial and error for everything in different positions to get it back moving correctly, I ended up just replacing the whole lock because of this at least I now have spare motors if needed to replace any that fail.

Just to add I searched everywhere but could not find any info/diagrams that would help.

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Del.

[rotatopotato]

Thanks Del, I did see your comment in that thread, and had thought I'd left everything undisturbed - it seems getting the motor part to work is easy enough, it's just getting the flick lock to work as well is the tricky part. As you say it seems to be down to timing and positioning.

If I can't sort it I'll put it back in with the motor lock and leave the flick lock off for now, as it's going down to Rotary Revs for a few weeks in sat so it'll at least lock off the remote. And while it's away I'll source a replacement

[BigPete]

I have some in stock should you need one

[rotatopotato]

I have some in stock should you need one

Perfect, it seems I will do

Managed to get it back together and working for the remote lock/unlock but the cable is disconnected for the manual switch.

[hachiroku]

If you had another one you could open & look at without disturbing the contents, then you may be able to see what should go where etc.

[Delanor]

Bearing in mind that the drivers door is different to the passenger door.

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Del.