rear brake lines

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AndyBrad
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rear brake lines

Post by AndyBrad »

So ive just had (amongst many others) an advisory for corroded or grease covered on the end of the rear brake pipe. To be fair it looks ok to me but is this a normal thing for a 2009 car?

So the real question is should i replace with braided lines or standard? anything to be aware of when doing so.
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Re: rear brake lines

Post by Markl17 »

If you don’t track the car fit mazda lines, as braided lines can corrode with normal road uses,and it hard to tell the difference anyway.
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Re: rear brake lines

Post by ChrisHolmes »

This is probably referring to the hard line that connects to the flexible hose and therefore to replacing with a braided pipe is not a solution. Either replacing the whole brake pipe, which is I think a fuel tank out job, or cutting off the corroded end and extending it are the only two options.
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Re: rear brake lines

Post by warpc0il »

Many mot testers like to use this advisory, for any brake pipes the have the slightest sign of rust, or waxoyl type treatment.

If you've looked and it's fine then don't worry about it.

Take the car somewhere else next year, without touching the pipes, and I bet they don't mention it.

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Re: rear brake lines

Post by AndyBrad »

warpc0il wrote:
Tue Nov 02, 2021 11:49 am
Many mot testers like to use this advisory, for any brake pipes the have the slightest sign of rust, or waxoyl type treatment.

If you've looked and it's fine then don't worry about it.

Take the car somewhere else next year, without touching the pipes, and I bet they don't mention it.

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Re: rear brake lines

Post by 13Black »

Markl17 wrote:
Tue Nov 02, 2021 11:46 am
braided lines can corrode with normal road uses

I realise that the OP's "issue" is the chassis hardlines, so this is somewhat moot to that discussion.
But just to clarify...
Why is this an issue?

Stainless steel corrosion is generally not really much other than surface tarnishing.
It's just the braiding that is stainless (and fittings, not that they're the issue?), the interior is still PTFE which is unaffected.
Generally the braided exterior is further wrapped in a coloured plastic sheath which further protects braiding from the elements.

Is this -really- causing any problems? :scratch:
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Re: rear brake lines

Post by delta0 »

I replaced mine with stainless steel braided lines. No more corrosion for me!
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Re: rear brake lines

Post by PaulAV »

I replaced mine with ebc braided lines brought with the club discount. Certainly made a difference to brake feel
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Re: rear brake lines

Post by liam.k97 »

I got this advisory (grease covered at the end of rear brake pipe), I panicked slightly because I'd replaced the hoses like the week before and thought they must of been leaking. Looking over the car just before the AGM, i honestly couldn't see what they were on about. Granted, the Halfords brake pipe spanner and its cacky tolerances (along with a little crustiness) took its toll on the rear nearside pipe nut although it sealed fine.

Like most MOT's, its down to the tech carrying them out i guess and what they deem to be an issue. They didn't mentioned my shredded damper dust boots and the exhaust leak coming from the doughnut gasket at the time. I guess brakes are such a key thing with people, the whole "as long as it stops" thing means they're happy to let a few other things slide on the car.
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Re: rear brake lines

Post by meaningking »

warpc0il wrote:
Tue Nov 02, 2021 11:49 am
Many mot testers like to use this advisory, for any brake pipes the have the slightest sign of rust, or waxoyl type treatment.

If you've looked and it's fine then don't worry about it.

Take the car somewhere else next year, without touching the pipes, and I bet they don't mention it.

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This is the same situation I’m facing. Long story short my PZ failed the national car test due to a imbalance in the front shocks as the only issue. I sorted this with a set of original shocks I got on here. I had them blasted and sprayed first for aesthetic reasons of course.

Anyway I missed the retest deadline due delays getting the work done with covid delays. So 70 days later from the first test I had it fully retested and it failed due brake line/hose advance corrosion OS rear. I appealed on the day but of course the supervisor agreed with the tester.

I was planning to replace the brake hose but based on Chris’s comment now I am unsure if I would need to replace the entire brake line. Both look fine to me. They had some corrosion of course which I applied rust converter to, as well as the rest of the underside.

Instead I am now thinking of waiting to get it fully rested again as Dave advised. Needless to say it quite frustrating.
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Re: rear brake lines

Post by AndyBrad »

yea im glad im not the only one.
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Re: rear brake lines

Post by Leck3000 »

13Black wrote:
Wed Nov 03, 2021 10:47 am
Markl17 wrote:
Tue Nov 02, 2021 11:46 am
braided lines can corrode with normal road uses

I realise that the OP's "issue" is the chassis hardlines, so this is somewhat moot to that discussion.
But just to clarify...
Why is this an issue?

Stainless steel corrosion is generally not really much other than surface tarnishing.
It's just the braiding that is stainless (and fittings, not that they're the issue?), the interior is still PTFE which is unaffected.
Generally the braided exterior is further wrapped in a coloured plastic sheath which further protects braiding from the elements.

Is this -really- causing any problems? :scratch:
Road car braided kits will almost certainly always be plastic coated, be it clear or coloured. You can have the choice of zinc plated or s/s fittings, dont skimp, go with s/s as the zinc ones have a reduced salt spray rating generally and the difference in price is as little as a tenner.

The only issue with braided hose on a road car is if you use the racing spec (without plastic coating) the dirt and grime get into the braiding and will gradually deteriorate the hose with friction from flexing.
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rear brake lines

Post by meaningking »

Just a quick update on this as it might be relevant to others. I appealed the decision and had the AA do an “independent” inspection. This is the section with the corrosion the original tester was referring to. It’s basically the only area of the underside I did not apply rust converter to as I had mistakenly taped it up. The issue is where the hose ends the metal section of the connector is pitted apparently.

The original tester got involved as it was the same test centre and said I altered the car so it’s still not passed the test yet. I might just replace the part. I just need to locate the part number.

I suppose the good news is it’s not the lines that need to replacing.Image
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