Bleeding brakes etc

[bigpete8]

If you can get there safely we can help you bleed the brakes. I'm changing my calipers tomorrow so will probably doing some bleeding at the track!

If you just remove one caliper / hose at a time then you should have minimal air in the system and bleeding should be simple and completed before you drive on the road.

I think this but hindsight is a wonderful thing.
I just did one corner for calliper and hose left the reservoir cap in place to limit leakage and removed to bleed/top up. It didn't take much effort with a vacuum pump.

[30405]

vacuum pump.

You lot and your fancy tools!!

[New Duke]

vacuum pump.

You lot and your fancy tools!!

As I'm a novice, I was told o buy 2ltr by a certain mobile machanic, and that's why I'm doing it myself, I wasn't aware I needed 5!

You can do it with 1L, but it's handy to have a second 1L bottle if you need more. You can always use the rest of that bottle for top ups as your brakes wear down and so does the reservoir level.

As has been suggested just try again with a vacuum pump working your way around each caliper. Any air should come out if you pump it through. The key part of brake bleeding is being very careful not to let air in at the nipple. If you can purge the ABS unit in Forscan then ace.

Worst case just take it and your own fresh fluid to a local garage. It's a quick, cheap task and not worth lots of your time

[Naz]

Worst case just take it and your own fresh fluid to a local garage. It's a quick, cheap task and not worth lots of your time

Sound advice. It's an easy job with the right tools and / or 2 people, so if you're struggling then just let someone else do it. In fact it's so simple that even on my 5 Series a BMW stealership only charged me £60, including the fluid!

[Rafael]

I think that's the best bleeding tool for one man job, it was on forum before. I'll go for this system when I'll install bbk and new brake lines.

[Keke]

I think that's the best bleeding tool for one man job, it was on forum before. I'll go for this system when I'll install bbk and new brake lines.

I borrowed one of these, but could get a seal

Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

[wreeve]

I believe there is something about the reservoir design that doesn't allow the pressurised bleed easily hence I bought vacuum bleed ..
Bought off Amazon 15 to 20 quid

[ChrisHolmes]

I think that's the best bleeding tool for one man job, it was on forum before. I'll go for this system when I'll install bbk and new brake lines.

I borrowed one of these, but could get a seal

Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

The RX8 cap design is not catered for in that Ezeebleed kit. Personally I use a home made one man bleeder made from a coke bottle and a length of clear tube sealed at one end and with a 45’ cut to make the none return valve.

[Keke]

Took the car to the garage today.
Basically there was air in the master cylinder from when I replaced the slave cylinder, I didn't know you could bleed the master cylinder?, anyway, £35 and my car works! Bargain

Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

[wreeve]

did this job last weekend, just gravity bleed it for the price of a rubber hose and a milk bottle and probably 4 hours of your time! Let it drip drip drip. I didn't even bother to use my go-to:

https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/563720 ... ke-bleeder

which is so much better than the pressure bleed method (tied the ezibleed and it's easy to blow up the reservoir like a balloon, and it never seemed to work well on my old Vauxhalls!

[warpc0il]

The early (pre-2006) cars have a bleed nipple on the brake master cylinder, which makes is easier, while the later cars don't

[ChrisHolmes]

The RX8 cap design is not catered for in that Ezeebleed kit. Personally I use a home made one man bleeder made from a coke bottle and a length of clear tube sealed at one end and with a 45’ cut to make the none return valve.

I use my Ezeebleed kit I bought a cap from an eBay breakers then just drill a hole add a couple of washers and fit it to the Ezeebleed tube.

*
*
Del.

[PaulAV]

I have just replaced the flexible brake hoses amongst other things, to bleed the system I fitted a pipe to the bleed nipple, into a bottle half filled with fluid, put a coating of grease around the nipple, opened the nipple and just bled the system, the grease around the nipple is a hint I picked up to stop air being drawn in around the nipple (when under vacuum, when releasing the peddle, air will be drawn in via any route, the grease creates a temporary seal) with the new flexible hoses and fresh fluid the brake peddle is solid, in a good way

[Milos_Balunovic]

One tip for brake change (caliper or hose)
Push down the brake pedal with a brick. It will close of the system and have it under slight pressure. Max that can happen is that single line gets air.

If you have hose pliers use them if replacing only calipers but jot on braided lines

[Milos_Balunovic]

I did this and tried one with a frog in it but it was too light and jumped off, better to use a denser engineering brick.

*
*
Del.

[Milos_Balunovic]

also if someone leaves the ignition to "on" Ohm wont be tight once brake is pressed and Amps will freely escape from the battery