Car won’t start...:(
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Car won’t start...:(
Car won’t start.
Key is in and turned, does this mean battery issue dead..?
Or would that light always stay on in turned position
(Noob question I know)
Key is in and turned, does this mean battery issue dead..?
Or would that light always stay on in turned position
(Noob question I know)
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
Is it clicking when you try and turn the key to the on position?
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
nope, but maybe if I've had a weak battery for a while it could be why I keep having start problems with one rotor not firing up straight away. Although RR probably would have picked up on that when they looked in to (without success)Vj4sothername wrote: ↑Wed Apr 14, 2021 12:26 pmCould just be flat, have you got a multimeter to check?
Called AA in hope they just diagnose a flat battery
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
OK I'd start by putting the battery on chrage and also check the battery leads are tight
then once its had a few hours try again but this time crank it for at least 20 seconds with your foot flat to the floor to clear it out ( this turns the injectors off) so you will de-flood it
also check the state of your ignition plug leads and plugs them selves
also clean the ESS ( crank speed) sensor on the front of the engine
then once its had a few hours try again but this time crank it for at least 20 seconds with your foot flat to the floor to clear it out ( this turns the injectors off) so you will de-flood it
also check the state of your ignition plug leads and plugs them selves
also clean the ESS ( crank speed) sensor on the front of the engine
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
Sounds like mine, my rear rotor is also dragging at start up and I usually have to keep my battery really well charged to get her started (This is because of underlying compression issues / bad engine health for me tho) so I'd start simple and have a good overnight battery charge. has this been getting worse for a while or just sudden?
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
Slow rotor start up has been going on about 6 months I'd say. Rotary Revs looked over and couldnt find anything so they replaced the spark plugs. Problem continued and they looked at it again and just recommended I change the plugs again.Nanotrox wrote: ↑Wed Apr 14, 2021 1:32 pmSounds like mine, my rear rotor is also dragging at start up and I usually have to keep my battery really well charged to get her started (This is because of underlying compression issues / bad engine health for me tho) so I'd start simple and have a good overnight battery charge. has this been getting worse for a while or just sudden?
Compression is low 6 on front rotor and mid 6s on rear - that was 3k miles ago
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
It was just flooded
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
hey we've all been there
an easy fix at least
worth cleaning the MAF and ESS sensors still though as this should give it an easier time starting
an easy fix at least
worth cleaning the MAF and ESS sensors still though as this should give it an easier time starting
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
Mine doesn't care how you turn it off always starts never flooded it!
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just oil lines to fit at some stage ( had them a while too)
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just oil lines to fit at some stage ( had them a while too)
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
Never say never. A couple of minutes drive is Weymouth to avoid flooding, but a weak battery or poor connections can catch you out
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
So every start is now problematic, takes several attempts. Because it's only on cold start does that mean its less likely to be compression issues and something else?
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
Stick some in line spark testers to make sure coils are firing sounds more ignition fault
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Hayward's Street/bridgeported rebuild,595's,Tein coilovers edfc Racingbeat rear anti roll bar oil pres oil temp gauge pod's,lockwood front rear grills,Tinted wind ws folding tow hook's,595s,connect2 ,at long last sohn and ap50 tank instaled ,revi ram air duct already fitted ! calipers painted,diff oil changed .
just oil lines to fit at some stage ( had them a while too)
180 of 400
just oil lines to fit at some stage ( had them a while too)
180 of 400
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
Rotary Revs checked them both times + the leadsnightfire10 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 22, 2021 10:14 amStick some in line spark testers to make sure coils are firing sounds more ignition fault
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
Did you change the spark plugs as RR suggested? What was the next step that they suggested after that given they say the coils and leads are fine?
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
RR changed them twice. We had no next steps afterwards, guy seemed at a bit of a loss haha
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
Have you checked the plugs after it's been sat all night before starting it and see if any of the 4 are wet, it might be the plugs are getting fouled overnight? it could explain why revs didn't find anything wrong with the ignition system?
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Engine Rebuild + Street Port - 24/09/2021
Lightened and balanced rotors
Pettit Catback
Smoked Rear S2 Style Taillights
Exedy Clutch
CC Ultra Lightweight Flywheel
CC Counterweight
Tein S.Tech Lowering Springs
Racing Beat Ram Air Intake
Footwell LEDs
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
I agree it looks ignition related. It shouldn't be a complex diagnosis for RR though, I'm a bit disappointed by that. Let's hope those plugs aren't getting fouled overnight Good point tho Nanotrox.
When it does start does the engine run and drive normally? Even if you boot it once warmed up?
After ignition is ruled out it might be worth another compression test. Maybe RR could do one for you for free if they've billed you for those sets of spark plugs and that testing they've done so far.
I'd suggest going somewhere else for a second opinion (and a bit more helpful insight). Boston Rotary for example, but you...just...live...so...far...North.
When it does start does the engine run and drive normally? Even if you boot it once warmed up?
After ignition is ruled out it might be worth another compression test. Maybe RR could do one for you for free if they've billed you for those sets of spark plugs and that testing they've done so far.
I'd suggest going somewhere else for a second opinion (and a bit more helpful insight). Boston Rotary for example, but you...just...live...so...far...North.
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
Plugs fouling can be ignition but can also be the car running too rich, do you start the car and then only do short journeys or move it on the drive for example? If you keep doing these kind of maneuvers then the cold start up enrichment will start to foul the plugs.
If not:
Have you had the car mapped at all? would be useful to get some logs see what it is doing. Are there any serious modifications?
If not:
Then perhaps the ignition needs a freshen up but poor coils/leads would effect the car all the time not just on cold start, warm start would also be affected. Could be battery related especially if you have coils that like to pull alot of current such as AEM, RRP or D585s all of these demand a little more from the battery on a cold start.
If not:
Have you had the car mapped at all? would be useful to get some logs see what it is doing. Are there any serious modifications?
If not:
Then perhaps the ignition needs a freshen up but poor coils/leads would effect the car all the time not just on cold start, warm start would also be affected. Could be battery related especially if you have coils that like to pull alot of current such as AEM, RRP or D585s all of these demand a little more from the battery on a cold start.
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
I'd be checking the Intake Air Temperature via ODB, to see if the reading makes sense, as the PCM might be trying to start on the wrong mapping.
You could have leaky fuel injectors, which are dripping fuel into the intake with residual fuel pressure in the rail.
You could have leaky fuel injectors, which are dripping fuel into the intake with residual fuel pressure in the rail.
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
As Carl said - not RX8s but seen it before where car on gas analyser was running too lean but plugs were fouled as though it was too rich. Turned out owner drove to work and back each two miles each day and car was always on the manual choke.
and as Dave said about Fuel injectors - I suspected this on mine and cleaned/replaced (not a job I recommend doing yourself)
and as Dave said about Fuel injectors - I suspected this on mine and cleaned/replaced (not a job I recommend doing yourself)
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
It doesn't get used as much as it used too but still done a few long journeys recently - Leeds and back last weekend. Did a 'spirited' drive round the country roads the other day and next day i was having the same issues. I never turn it off until the engine has warmed up (often driving past my destination or taking the long route)
When it does start, it's the usual P0302 code 'misfire on cylinder 2' and lumpy start and then after a minute it's fine.
AA checked the battery the other day and said all seemed fine - i'll try capture some screen grabs on the OBD reader on start up to see if any of the data seems out (no idea what im looking for though)
It's not been mapped
I've accepted I need a rebuild in near future but ideally if i can keep it going till end of summer before i need to fork out for that it'd be great (baby on the way n all that)
When it does start, it's the usual P0302 code 'misfire on cylinder 2' and lumpy start and then after a minute it's fine.
AA checked the battery the other day and said all seemed fine - i'll try capture some screen grabs on the OBD reader on start up to see if any of the data seems out (no idea what im looking for though)
It's not been mapped
I've accepted I need a rebuild in near future but ideally if i can keep it going till end of summer before i need to fork out for that it'd be great (baby on the way n all that)
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Re: Car won’t start...:(
If that is the case the and especially with a mis-fire code it could be ignition related.
although I wouldn't rule out some sideseal issue causing this too, a new compression test would help rule this out.
When you do the screenshot of the OBD reader try to get the following:
LTFT - Long term fuel trim
STFT - Short term fuel trim
RPM - Engine speed
AFR - Air fuel ratio
Another quick check would be the throttle body, just make sure its not a lazy one and not flickering on closed throttle. Just exercise the pedal and you should hear it operate smoothly.
although I wouldn't rule out some sideseal issue causing this too, a new compression test would help rule this out.
When you do the screenshot of the OBD reader try to get the following:
LTFT - Long term fuel trim
STFT - Short term fuel trim
RPM - Engine speed
AFR - Air fuel ratio
Another quick check would be the throttle body, just make sure its not a lazy one and not flickering on closed throttle. Just exercise the pedal and you should hear it operate smoothly.
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