Proud R3 Owner

[craigy85]

Since selling my Nordic Green 231 back in 2011 (YP55 AXX, in case it's still kicking around?) I've missed having an RX-8 in my life. So, after much searching, I've finally purchased an R3 as a second car (/ man toy)

Went to see it on the promise of good compression from Kent Rotaries last year (all 7s)... I insisted on a new test and, unfortunately, the results were not good at all:

Front rotor: 5.6, 5.6, 5.2
Rear rotor: 5.4, 5.2, 5.3

The bodywork was in good overall condition (few bits to tidy up) and she is very straight and relative rust free underneath, for a 68k mile, 12 year old car! So, the seller and I came to an agreement on a significantly reduced price and shes now mine

Planning on getting a really good service done (all fluids, belts filters, coils, leads, plugs etc.) and hoping an Italian tune up will help to bring those numbers up a little... if not, there's plenty left in the budget for a rebuild!

So, its great to be back and I'm sure ill have some questions for you all in the coming weeks as I get myself back into the world of 'zoom zoom' motoring!

[craigy85]

And here she is (if the links work):

[craigy85]

Those numbers are remarkably consistent, so I do wonder if someone used the wrong maths when doing the normalisation to 250 rpm.

If they are correct then there's a good chance that some tlc and an Italian decoke may well have a positive impact

[craigy85]

Thanks Dave! The compression test was done by Scott at RRP in Rugby, so fairly confident they're right... The numbers I've quoted were after normalising to 250 (rpms were greater so numbers came down from those measured) and I've converted from PSI so might be a little bit of rounding on my part... here's the full results from the test sheet:

Rotor 1 (front):

Rpm - 262
Faces (psi): 83, 83, 77
Normalised to 250rpm (psi): 79, 79, 73


Rotor 2 (rear):

Rpm - 266
Faces (psi): 82, 79, 81
Normalised to 250rpm (psi): 77, 74 76

[v-rex]

Thought I recognised that garage!

I did a compression test with Luke Murdoch who works in kgf/cm2, and then again very shortly after with RRP who work in PSI, so your conversion math looks right to me. I had similar numbers to you, although maybe a few psi higher when normalized to 250rpm.

Apologies: not sure why the pictures are coming out rotated...

[craigy85]

Hi V-Rex - as you say, very similar numbers! I notice the first test was in March - how's the car been since then, and were / are you having any signs of engine trouble which made you get it tested?

[Nickp47]

Looks like quite a good buy, the drivers seat looks to be in very good condition for the mileage.

[craigy85]

Looks like quite a good buy, the drivers seat looks to be in very good condition for the mileage.

Cheers Nick - for the price, i certainly have no complaints!

There are a small list of issues which i'll post up shortly - some of them i have a good idea what needs to be done, others i am stumped (and can't find anything using search)! For example, there's a rubber seal along the bottom of the rear windscreen which is coming away at both ends - no idea whether i can just glue / sealant it back in or whether the screen would come out to properly replace it? Doesn't seem to have been reported previously...

[BigPete]

You can warm up the rear seal with a hot air gun and re shape it back in to place plus some sealant to keep it there. It’s quite common tbf or you need rear screen out and get a new one from Mazda then refit both

[craigy85]

Awesome, thanks Pete! Any particular sealant or just any old clear silicon?

I do miss this forum - what a great bunch! As i said, i'll list the rest of my issues / questions out when I've had chance to give it a proper inspection and get to know the car a bit better...

[v-rex]

Hi V-Rex - as you say, very similar numbers! I notice the first test was in March - how's the car been since then, and were / are you having any signs of engine trouble which made you get it tested?

Mine is not directly comparable as my numbers were about 3300 miles post a rebuild with a streetport, and since then I've rebuilt it again. This decision wasn't solely based on the compression but some other symptoms I was having as well. In terms of how the car is doing, I am still bedding it in, but should be done shortly and I look forward to seeing what compression numbers I get and how the car performs.

Before my first rebuild I had mid-high 4's on the front, and mid 6's on the rear for a few years ( I did the test a few times ) and the car drove well, and I had no hot/cold start issues really. Once I got new PZ suspension on the car, I decided to rebuild anyway, as that was the main sticky point to solve for me before I spent more money on it. I've had the car from new so although the car wasn't that bad, it wasn't like it was new so I wanted to try and get it back there, hence my decision.

In your case as you saw 7's before, and because I've not really heard too many problems with R3's since they added the extra port for lubrication, I'd definitely do the italian tune up. Your numbers are quite even as Dave said which is reassuring. I think I've run cataclean through mine as well a few times and it's made it feel better and I always use V-power. I tried normal unleaded for a bit but the car feels better with V-power. Other than that I don't know if members recommend premixing on R3's but that is another good option I think as well, and alot of people recommend a 10W40 oil. You've had an S1 before, so you probably know how to drive it to keep it going well. Yours does look like a lovely example from the pics, and you did the ever so important checks for rust, so I am sure you'll enjoy the car and it will treat you well.

[v-rex]

You can warm up the rear seal with a hot air gun and re shape it back in to place plus some sealant to keep it there. It’s quite common tbf or you need rear screen out and get a new one from Mazda then refit both

I've been meaning to fix this on mine for a while. Thanks for the useful info bigpete.

[Ainmhidh]

I think Kent Rotaries used to be Hextable Rotaries? Which might suggest how they had compression in the 7's previously...

[craigy85]

Mine is not directly comparable as my numbers were about 3300 miles post a rebuild with a streetport, and since then I've rebuilt it again. This decision wasn't solely based on the compression but some other symptoms I was having as well. In terms of how the car is doing, I am still bedding it in, but should be done shortly and I look forward to seeing what compression numbers I get and how the car performs.

Ah, ok... Did you do the rebuild yourself (if not, do you mind me asking who did)?

In your case as you saw 7's before, and because I've not really heard too many problems with R3's since they added the extra port for lubrication, I'd definitely do the italian tune up. Your numbers are quite even as Dave said which is reassuring. I think I've run cataclean through mine as well a few times and it's made it feel better and I always use V-power. I tried normal unleaded for a bit but the car feels better with V-power. Other than that I don't know if members recommend premixing on R3's but that is another good option I think as well, and alot of people recommend a 10W40 oil. You've had an S1 before, so you probably know how to drive it to keep it going well. Yours does look like a lovely example from the pics, and you did the ever so important checks for rust, so I am sure you'll enjoy the car and it will treat you well.

I've not seen 7's. The chap i bought it from (literally yesterday) bought it last summer from Kent Rotaries, and has only done 2k miles in it since - They provided him with a compression test sheet quoting mid-low 7's all round when he bought it... but I understand every car they sell has very similar (or the same) compression results, which is why i insisted on a pre-purchase test.

I've already ordered a bottle of cataclean (£12 from amazon) so that'll be put through it when i run the first tank down... which won't be long, i'm sure !

[v-rex]

Ah, ok... Did you do the rebuild yourself (if not, do you mind me asking who did)?

If you knew how mechanically inept I was you'd also giggle at the prospect of me doing my own rebuild. Ryan Rotary (RRP) the first time in April 2019. The second time round I went through Luke Murdoch, who outsourced the build to The Performance Shop (TPS), at the end of May 2020.

I've not seen 7's. The chap i bought it from (literally yesterday) bought it last summer from Kent Rotaries, and has only done 2k miles in it since - They provided him with a compression test sheet quoting mid-low 7's all round when he bought it... but I understand every car they sell has very similar (or the same) compression results, which is why i insisted on a pre-purchase test.

I've already ordered a bottle of cataclean (£12 from amazon) so that'll be put through it when i run the first tank down... which won't be long, i'm sure !

Ahh.. gotcha. Everything from Kent rotaries gets a lucky seven's on the comp test. Wise move then indeed getting it checked. I don't know the history of these guys but it seems like there is some infamy from what Ainhmidh said. Ok, well hopefully it's still not a bad thing, and once you tune up, hopefully you'll be in 6's. I think 7's might be a bit optimistic but who knows !! Good luck !!

[craigy85]

Awesome, thanks Pete! Any particular sealant or just any old clear silicon?

I can't speak for Pete, but I used a bit of clear Stixall for that job, then held it in place over night with a careful wedge made of a small strip of softwood.
It did the trick, although that was on my old Grey 8.

[GreySilver Beast]

Added your car to the R3 list of owners Craig

[ChrisHolmes]

If I was repairing the screen rubber I would use black windscreen adhesive, if not available black silicone or Tigerseal.

[pstables]

Had to do both seals edges on mine, used black stixall most recently and to hold it in place I put a 10mm or so lip on a flat piece of aluminium, and then taped this to the back window with gaffa tape to hold it in place...

https://imgur.com/a/uFkl1Oc

[craigy85]

Thanks all! Got some black sealant / adhesive and a bottle of Cataclean arriving tomorrow...

[craigy85]

Well that's the headlights polished up, the broken centre console lid glued (the guide 'lug' had snapped - hoping plenty of superglue will hold it) and the rear window seal re-stuck with sealant / adhesive. I've also got my hands on some RRP mk3 coils and MSD leads to go on when she gets a full service.

So, other than painting the calipers, giving her a full service and proper valet, here's the remaining list of things to sort... if anyone has any ideas, that'd be great!

Central locking - passenger door won't lock or unlock with the fob (you have to manually do it from the drivers seat). Im assuming it'll need a new actuator, although a few posts I've read suggest the lock button normally twitches when the actuator is faulty - there's definitely no twitching on mine!

Heater - theres a 'squeak' from the heater when you switch from re-circulated air / fresh air (which the car seems to do itself at start up and shut down) - I'm assuming it just needs lubricating somewhere?

Exhaust - got a leak from the rear of the cat so suspecting a new donut seal and / or spring bolts required? I've been eyeing up a new catback but can't really justify almost a grand on a new one so will have to keep my eye out for a 2nd hand (quieter preferred, if anyone's got one lying around that they dont want )

Spare fob key - the car came with one fob and one plain key. I'd like to have a 2nd fob so me and the wife have our own. I've read the 'simple' procedure to code a new key and assume that will work given I have two keys already? Mine's a visteon 41585 which seem to be rare as rocking horse poop so would any other visteon 4 button key work (eg 41787 or 41522) as there seem to be plenty of those on ebay?

[craigy85]

Update - the exhaust leak turned out to be a small hole in the cat, right next to the rear hanger, so that came off to be repaired.... until I had a look inside



So, that's been replaced with a decat pipe for now and I'll look to pick up a 200 cell cat before the next MOT (and sell on the collapsed cat for scrap)

If anyone has any suggestions on the central locking / key / heater questions, please let me know - will be looking at those next week!

[AndyBrad]

I had no luj programming using the tricks of another key and all the on off button pressing etc. A new one from mazda is £££ but got one from a local locksmith for 75 qud programmed. It doesnt have the boot button though.

[v-rex]

Central locking - passenger door won't lock or unlock with the fob (you have to manually do it from the drivers seat). Im assuming it'll need a new actuator, although a few posts I've read suggest the lock button normally twitches when the actuator is faulty - there's definitely no twitching on mine!

Stupid question but does the little red light flash on the key when you press the key ? I remember when I finally had to change the battery on my keyfob after , it didn't work properly with remote locking and the boot opening for a bit, causing me to investigate. It's probably not that, but worth a quick check and the battery isn't too expensive so a quick fix if so.

Edit: I have had the actuator go and had to have it replaced on the passenger side, but it definitely twitches, even if it doesn't lock.

[Juey]

I'm guessing your back box is rattling as all those pieces of CAT have gone somewhere!