Rebuild (self-removal advise).

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nintenjo
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Rebuild (self-removal advise).

Post by nintenjo »

My 05’ 192 has started to struggle a little with hot starts and although it’s never actually failed to turn over I suspect after 15 years and 44k miles the seals are starting to fail and a rebuild is due.

I am thinking of getting RRP to rebuild and street port the engine but I am on the fence weather I remove / refit the engine myself or not..

I’ve serviced the car fully a few times and fairly comfy under the hood but I am no expert or trained mechanic, so worried its too big a job.. and I am kidding myself I can’t undertake it.

Why strip it myself?

1. I’d like to clean and repaint a lot of parts that require engine removal which I can do whilst the rebuild is under taken.

2. It will save me nearly £500 on the rebuild.

3. I bought the car specifically to learn more and have a project to work on, but I’m aware if I get stuck mid strip down I can’t really go back.

Thoughts?


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Nickp47
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Re: Rebuild (self-removal advise).

Post by Nickp47 »

If you are in a position to take your time then do it yourself, not only is it rewarding to do, it’s not really difficult. My skills are pretty basic but I did it without much drama.

Have you had the car compression tested? I wonder if being an early car it perhaps has an older type starter?
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Jeags
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Re: Rebuild (self-removal advise).

Post by Jeags »

Mine started to fail about a month before lockdown started. My plan was to remove the engine myself (done during lockdown), and now I'm waiting for my mechanic to reopen again for him to do the rebuild. If all goes to plan, I'd like him to rebuild and refit the engine as if I have problems in the future, I know it's not down to me missing something when I refitted the engine myself. It all depends on how handy you are and how much time you can dedicate to the car. I enjoyed taking mine out, but am not touching the engine itself or refitting it as I want it done professionally for peace of mind. I'd say it's doable, but depends on how much time you have, and how brave you are imo!

I am quite lucky to have an inspection pit in my garage, so that made it a lot easier. Plus you'll need to assess how to get it out of the car. I think you'd need a long engine crane with the position of the engine in the car, however I just used a block and tackle.

Good luck either way ImageImageImage

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Re: Rebuild (self-removal advise).

Post by SprintRX8 »

If you feel confident it doing it then why not.

Also plan on tools needed to complete a strip and rebuild,
Do you have access to a engine Hoist/Crane.
Socket for Flywheel nut and front pulley flywheel locking tool.
Both of these are damm tight.
Torque Wrench
Suitable tool kit to complete.

Wants the warranty on a engine that RRP builds but doesn’t fit?.

Once you factor the extras doing it yourself would you be saving much.
Apart from tiding the engine bay.
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nintenjo
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Re: Rebuild (self-removal advise).

Post by nintenjo »

Thanks all on the advise.

I will certainly get it compression tested before the rebuild.. and if it’s the older starter type update it if worth doing.

I don’t have access to a hoist but would likely hire one, but am aware that space might be at a premium as I’d be doing it on my driveway. I’ll certainly have to measure up space and see if it’s viable.


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nintenjo
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Re: Rebuild (self-removal advise).

Post by nintenjo »

Nickp47 wrote:If you are in a position to take your time then do it yourself, not only is it rewarding to do, it’s not really difficult. My skills are pretty basic but I did it without much drama.

Have you had the car compression tested? I wonder if being an early car it perhaps has an older type starter?
If I got a photo of my current starter is it easy to identify which model is fitted as I have no idea if it was replaced during the recalls of the 1.3kw models


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warpc0il
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Re: Rebuild (self-removal advise).

Post by warpc0il »

There wasn't any "recalls of the 1.3kw models"

There was Technical Service Bulletin that referenced "slow starting" and could result in the starter being replaced for a more powerful version, under warranty, if the owner reported a problem, which expired in 2007.

Less than 20 were replaced under this process across the UK.
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350matt
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Re: Rebuild (self-removal advise).

Post by 350matt »

if its the original starter then it will have a sitcker on the side

( reposted from Rotary revs site)

When the RX-8 was initially introduced in 2003, it came with a small 1.2kw starter motor known as the ‘N3H1’ which generally achieved a crank speed of around 220 to 250rpm. The N3H1 soon proved insufficient however, forcing Mazda put out a service bulletin that allowed RX-8 owners to have their starter motor swapped out for an uprated 2kw model, the N3H1-A.

N3H1-A
STARTER MOTOR (REV. 1)
Spinning the engine over at between 260 and 280rpm consistently, the N3H1-A worked and was much more reliable than its predecessor. More than that, it not only did what was needed but also had a little room left over to allow for short falls in engine compression. These starter motors we have found to be very durable with most lasting 10’s of thousands of miles without needing to be replaced. They are easily identifiable in comparison to the N3H1 starter motors by their longer body.

N3Z1
STARTER MOTOR (REV. 1)
In around 2006, Mazda quietly began started fitting the N3Z1, an uprated 2kw starter motor. Not much was changed from the N3H1-A, just a few internal components. These more powerful starter motors are capable of cranking the engine over as fast as 290rpm, leaving a large margin again, to allow for any shortfalls in engine compression. Oddly we have found this model to be a little less durable than its predecessor, the N3H1-A, though much more readily available and a popular upgrade for older cars because of the performance gains and lower price.

N3R3
STARTER MOTOR (REV. 3)
The last and latest starter motor was introduced with the release of the Series 2 RX-8: the N3R3 is again a 2kw starter motor based on the earlier N3Z1 and N3H1-A, but contains an additional tooth on the pinion gear. This starter motor offers the fastest cranking speed of all by far. You will often see a starting RPM of around 290, going right through to 330rpm in some cases at the top end. This means that the N3R3 starter motor is capable of starting engines in some cases, which are well past their serviceable life.



typically if you're going to replace the motor go for broke and fit a 14T N3 R3 type

for example

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-RX8-RX ... SwYmZXHkqX

this one has a years warrenty
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V8 Power (Mon Jun 22, 2020 8:41 am)
nintenjo
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Re: Rebuild (self-removal advise).

Post by nintenjo »

Well the photos arnt great, but this was the best I could get, what do people think regarding originality?

Either way changing the starter and the battery which is also on its last legs seems like a good idea first.

Image
Image


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Nickp47
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Re: Rebuild (self-removal advise).

Post by Nickp47 »

Yes, if you have an old starter and a poor battery then of course the engine won’t be turning very fast when starting so your compression may not be as bad as you think.

Ideally need to see the part number label of the starter to know which it is or even better get a compression test.
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Re: Rebuild (self-removal advise).

Post by 350matt »

the starter comes off very easily ,biggest thing is to disconnect the battery to avoid welding your spanner to it.....

as sometimes the sticker is on the top of the unit