Revi Ram Air Duct with stock air box

[R1DSO]

I installed the Racing Beat Revi Ram Air Duct in my R3 yesterday. I’m running the stock air box, with a K&N panel filter. With this being a fairly common set-up, I was surprised to find out that there’s a 7cm gap between the stock air box and the Revi duct:

2EAFDD45-57AC-4D35-8770-F62A529EC46D.jpeg

4E66C579-A4F2-4D8E-9235-37094AD672B2.jpeg

Unlike the OEM set-up, the Revi duct is too wide and short to pass through the oval metal hole towards the engine bay to meet the air box. But, confusingly, the Revi duct instructions mention being careful not to push the lower edge of the air box foam seal out of position with the Revi duct, when it’s nowhere near it.

132F9F52-8688-4852-B2AD-5B0D49934D0F.jpeg

Now studying pictures of the full Revi intake (which I don’t have), it looks like the aftermarket air box has a plastic flange that potentially stretches further forward to meet the duct. However, if this is the case, I would have thought it wouldn’t work with the stock air duct (which it claims to).

9627596B-93D8-41C5-9D87-B9F184835FCA.jpeg

With the current 7cm gap between the air box and Revi duct, I think the intake is going to be pulling in hotter air in proximity to the engine bay when stationary and in traffic. I’d argue that this isn’t exactly a ‘ram air’ set-up rather than some cold air piping. Has anyone with the same set-up had similar concerns?

A couple of other observations...

This may not be like for like for S1 owners, but the R3 grill is partially blocked out, covering the centre section of the intake. I’m wondering if this is worth opening up.

7DF67333-9D68-46E1-A11C-0F8D6535F220.jpeg

A couple of threads on the US OC forum implied that the VFAD delete required when installing the Revi duct would increase induction noise (and throttle response) at lower revs. The K&N panel filter was a bit louder, but I’m not sure I can notice anything more with the VFAD out.

I understand that the Revi air box/filter will make minimal (if any) performance increase over and above my current setup (at least without an ECU tune), but interested to know if it would be louder.

As a side point, my RX-8 does now have a dorky smile hidden under its bumper :

E2CBB188-E502-41A2-AC91-864B9577E19B.jpeg

[350matt]

I'd definitley make a piece to bridge that gap between the two

[nightfire10]

I installed the Racing Beat Revi Ram Air Duct in my R3 yesterday. I’m running the stock air box, with a K&N panel filter. With this being a fairly common set-up, I was surprised to find out that there’s a 7cm gap between the stock air box and the Revi duct:

2EAFDD45-57AC-4D35-8770-F62A529EC46D.jpeg

4E66C579-A4F2-4D8E-9235-37094AD672B2.jpeg

Unlike the OEM set-up, the Revi duct is too wide and short to pass through the oval metal hole towards the engine bay to meet the air box. But, confusingly, the Revi duct instructions mention being careful not to push the lower edge of the air box foam seal out of position with the Revi duct, when it’s nowhere near it.

132F9F52-8688-4852-B2AD-5B0D49934D0F.jpeg

Now studying pictures of the full Revi intake (which I don’t have), it looks like the aftermarket air box has a plastic flange that potentially stretches further forward to meet the duct. However, if this is the case, I would have thought it wouldn’t work with the stock air duct (which it claims to).

9627596B-93D8-41C5-9D87-B9F184835FCA.jpeg

With the current 7cm gap between the air box and Revi duct, I think the intake is going to be pulling in hotter air in proximity to the engine bay when stationary and in traffic. I’d argue that this isn’t exactly a ‘ram air’ set-up rather than some cold air piping. Has anyone with the same set-up had similar concerns?

A couple of other observations...

This may not be like for like for S1 owners, but the R3 grill is partially blocked out, covering the centre section of the intake. I’m wondering if this is worth opening up.

7DF67333-9D68-46E1-A11C-0F8D6535F220.jpeg

A couple of threads on the US OC forum implied that the VFAD delete required when installing the Revi duct would increase induction noise (and throttle response) at lower revs. The K&N panel filter was a bit louder, but I’m not sure I can notice anything more with the VFAD out.

I understand that the Revi air box/filter will make minimal (if any) performance increase over and above my current setup (at least without an ECU tune), but interested to know if it would be louder.

As a side point, my RX-8 does now have a dorky smile hidden under its bumper :

E2CBB188-E502-41A2-AC91-864B9577E19B.jpeg

If your struggling to get it to fit I could fit it in mine

Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

[R1DSO]

I used cut sections of the 192 version of the removed section to bridge the gap, on the three Ram air ducts that I've fitted with the OEM airbox, including my own.

It doesn't have to be an airtight joint as you actually want excess ram air to be able to spill out, so the intake doesn't over-pressurise.

There's a write-up somewhere on the site with photos but I can't find it using Tapatalk

[R1DSO]

I used cut sections of the 192 version of the removed section to bridge the gap, on the three Ram air ducts that I've fitted with the OEM airbox, including my own.

It doesn't have to be an airtight joint as you actually want excess ram air to be able to spill out, so the intake doesn't over-pressurise.

There's a write-up somewhere on the site with photos but I can't find it using Tapatalk

Found it, thanks Dave . I missed that first time round.

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=44692&p=1230451&hi ... t#p1230451

The VFAD section of my stock air duct is 10cm down inside of the tube, so I think I could cut it with my dremel before the VFAD break and the tubing will still be long enough.

D04FF518-7932-4354-B9EA-0E6F5871DC15.jpeg

Having said, I will keep my OEM part intact in my loft; assuming all 231 ducts are the same as my R3 part, I’m just thinking it may be easier to source one of these from a breaker than the 192 version.

[R1DSO]

If your struggling to get it to fit I could fit it in mine

Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the offer

[delta0]

I’ve not removed that centre blocked section on the grill. It will need to be done carefully if it is done as you don’t want to have excess air coming in that could cool the front of the engine which will cause problems with the thermal expansion of the engine between the front and back. I seem to remember that panel might be removable but otherwise it will need to be cut open. Curious to see what you do. I would mind opening it up a bit to get more ram air effect.

[New Duke]

I've got the same setup right now. Bought it specifically to reduce overheating on hot track days. RB don't mention when you buy the scoop that it doesn't fit properly without buying the filter housing as well. Feckers. That's a pretty key piece of info to omit. Makes you wonder what else they didn't think of or mention.

There is an increased sound of air sucking that you'll hear with the windows down at speed, and it'll be a bit louder with that open section sealed. But set your expectations low. We're not talking intake roar levels of sound and it'll be modest.

I've kept the gap there. Dave's solution is really tidy and I started to copy it (and bought a spare 192 inlet to cut up) but first I sealed the gap with ducting for testing. The logs showed that sealing the gap didn't really make any appreciable difference... to anything. So I left the gap to make it easier to get the airbox out and had it re-tuned in that state.

Runs cooler than when using the VFAD + not down on power = satisfied (but still angry at RB)

I decided not to chop the front mesh. Enough air gets through anyway.

[R1DSO]

I’ve not removed that centre blocked section on the grill. It will need to be done carefully if it is done as you don’t want to have excess air coming in that could cool the front of the engine which will cause problems with the thermal expansion of the engine between the front and back. I seem to remember that panel might be removable but otherwise it will need to be cut open. Curious to see what you do. I would mind opening it up a bit to get more ram air effect.

From memory, it looked like there were some removable grill panels. I was in a bit of a rush to get the bumper back on as it was getting dark, so didn’t take a photo . I started the job late and a couple of bits took a little longer than expected e.g. lying on my back under the car with my legs up in the air to stop the bumper from coming off whilst unclipping the fog light wires .

I may take the bumper off again in the coming days/weeks to get better access to sanding and polishing my headlights, which need a bit of a freshen up. If I do, I’ll have a look to see if it’s possible to remove a bit of the centre panel without cutting and report back.

Interesting to hear about thermal expansion potentially being an issue. I would have thought that the radiator would get in the way of any additional airflow, but I guess Mazda partially blocked the grill for a reason. But then again, I’ve seen RX-8 track cars with big holes drilled into the bumper nose and the Mazdaspeed bumper has a march larger open grill section, so never thought that would be a problem.

I noticed your footer says you have the full Revi intake system. Out of interest, does your Reviintake then join up to the ram air duct without a gap?

[R1DSO]

I've got the same setup right now. Bought it specifically to reduce overheating on hot track days. RB don't mention when you buy the scoop that it doesn't fit properly without buying the filter housing as well. Feckers. That's a pretty key piece of info to omit. Makes you wonder what else they didn't think of or mention.

There is an increased sound of air sucking that you'll hear with the windows down at speed, and it'll be a bit louder with that open section sealed. But set your expectations low. We're not talking intake roar levels of sound and it'll be modest.

I've kept the gap there. Dave's solution is really tidy and I started to copy it (and bought a spare 192 inlet to cut up) but first I sealed the gap with ducting for testing. The logs showed that sealing the gap didn't really make any appreciable difference... to anything. So I left the gap to make it easier to get the airbox out and had it re-tuned in that state.

Runs cooler than when using the VFAD + not down on power = satisfied (but still angry at RB)

I decided not to chop the front mesh. Enough air gets through anyway.

Nice, OK. Good to hear it’s not an essential fix from the sound of how you’re running your set-up .

Strange as, if the RB filter housing extends to meet the Revi ram air duct, I would have thought that it wouldn’t work with the stock VFAD piping .

Pete @ Nutty Chappie’s Emporium is having a quick look to see if he has a 192 duct for me, but he doesn’t think he has one in stock. If he doesn’t, let me know if you‘re open to selling me yours .

I fancy having a go at Dave’s piping solution, purely as that was what I was expecting the ram air duct to do, even if in reality it won’t make any difference .

[New Duke]

Nice, OK. Good to hear it’s not an essential fix from the sound of how you’re running your set-up .

Strange as, if the RB filter housing extends to meet the Revi ram air duct, I would have thought that it wouldn’t work with the stock VFAD piping .

Pete @ Nutty Chappie’s Emporium is having a quick look to see if he has a 192 duct for me, but he doesn’t think he has one in stock. If he doesn’t, let me know if you‘re open to selling me yours .

I fancy having a go at Dave’s piping solution, purely as that was what I was expecting the ram air duct to do, even if in reality it won’t make any difference .

Sorry I should have been clearer. Yeah I also removed the VFAD. It has to go to fit the scoop as you'll have encountered.

I'll have a look for that 192 duct in case you need it. It'll be in my garage somewhere.

It's probably a good idea to seal it up if you can... I just got lazy!

[delta0]

From memory, it looked like there were some removable grill panels. I was in a bit of a rush to get the bumper back on as it was getting dark, so didn’t take a photo . I started the job late and a couple of bits took a little longer than expected e.g. lying on my back under the car with my legs up in the air to stop the bumper from coming off whilst unclipping the fog light wires .

I may take the bumper off again in the coming days/weeks to get better access to sanding and polishing my headlights, which need a bit of a freshen up. If I do, I’ll have a look to see if it’s possible to remove a bit of the centre panel without cutting and report back.

Interesting to hear about thermal expansion potentially being an issue. I would have thought that the radiator would get in the way of any additional airflow, but I guess Mazda partially blocked the grill for a reason. But then again, I’ve seen RX-8 track cars with big holes drilled into the bumper nose and the Mazdaspeed bumper has a march larger open grill section, so never thought that would be a problem.

I noticed your footer says you have the full Revi intake system. Out of interest, does your Reviintake then join up to the ram air duct without a gap?

Yes I do have the full system. There isn’t any gap between the ram air duct and the air box. I would be interested to see what you can find when you next take the bumper off.

Edit:
Looking at this video the blanked off section in the middle is not removable. It would need to be cut away.

[R1DSO]

I used cut sections of the 192 version of the removed section to bridge the gap, on the three Ram air ducts that I've fitted with the OEM airbox, including my own.

It doesn't have to be an airtight joint as you actually want excess ram air to be able to spill out, so the intake doesn't over-pressurise.

There's a write-up somewhere on the site with photos but I can't find it using Tapatalk

Mine is one the ones Dave very kindly fitted - and as mine is a 192 I think he cut the bridge section from the bit he removed from my car, so that came in handy.

[R1DSO]

I'll have a look for that 192 duct in case you need it. It'll be in my garage somewhere.

It's probably a good idea to seal it up if you can... I just got lazy!

Nice one, thank you .

No probs if you can’t find it. Fellow club member Calcifur83 posted today that he’s breaking his 192 and he’s willing to part with his duct if your one doesn’t show up (or if you want to keep it) .

[R1DSO]

Yes I do have the full system. There isn’t any gap between the ram air duct and the air box. I would be interested to see what you can find when you next take the bumper off.

Edit:
Looking at this video the blanked off section in the middle is not removable. It would need to be cut away.

Nice, thanks for the info re the full system.

Strangely, I’m contrast to what the video shows, I thought the back of my grill had some screw type things which looked like they could be removed. It’s very likely that I’m imagining it, though.

Will report back with some pics when I get the bumper off. Will likely be next week at the soonest now.

[New Duke]

Strangely, I’m contrast to what the video shows, I thought the back of my grill had some screw type things which looked like they could be removed. It’s very likely that I’m imagining it, though.

Will report back with some pics when I get the bumper off. Will likely be next week at the soonest now.

You're not imagining it. There is a plate in the middle that is missing from the bumper in the video. Whether that is what blocks the grill or is just a blanking plate to reinforce the centre (conveniently hidden behind the blocked section)? Ahhhhhhhhhhhh.... I dunno.

Here's a photo of the inside of my bumper I prepared earlier

DSC_0038.JPG

I noticed that you don't have any aluminium mesh fitted to protect your oil coolers. I know you only just had the bumper off, but if you do take it off again then it's worth doing that at the same time. I literally bought a sheet of black alu mesh and cut out sections to wrap around the coolers by hand. The bumper then holds them in place.

[MightyCondor]

5 years and 3 RX-8s ago I did this to bridge the gap:

viewtopic.php?p=950572#p950572

Sent from my IN2013 using Tapatalk

[delta0]

Strangely, I’m contrast to what the video shows, I thought the back of my grill had some screw type things which looked like they could be removed. It’s very likely that I’m imagining it, though.

Will report back with some pics when I get the bumper off. Will likely be next week at the soonest now.

You're not imagining it. There is a plate in the middle that is missing from the bumper in the video. Whether that is what blocks the grill or is just a blanking plate to reinforce the centre (conveniently hidden behind the blocked section)? Ahhhhhhhhhhhh.... I dunno.

Here's a photo of the inside of my bumper I prepared earlier

DSC_0038.JPG


I noticed that you don't have any aluminium mesh fitted to protect your oil coolers. I know you only just had the bumper off, but if you do take it off again then it's worth doing that at the same time. I literally bought a sheet of black alu mesh and cut out sections to wrap around the coolers by hand. The bumper then holds them in place.

That picture is really clear. That is a removable panel. To me that looks like they added that after the moulds for the grill were made so it became a separate part. It was probably and issue detected late in the design. On the cooler mesh. Something I’ve thought about doing.

[R1DSO]

Strangely, I’m contrast to what the video shows, I thought the back of my grill had some screw type things which looked like they could be removed. It’s very likely that I’m imagining it, though.

Will report back with some pics when I get the bumper off. Will likely be next week at the soonest now.

You're not imagining it. There is a plate in the middle that is missing from the bumper in the video. Whether that is what blocks the grill or is just a blanking plate to reinforce the centre (conveniently hidden behind the blocked section)? Ahhhhhhhhhhhh.... I dunno.

Here's a photo of the inside of my bumper I prepared earlier

DSC_0038.JPG


I noticed that you don't have any aluminium mesh fitted to protect your oil coolers. I know you only just had the bumper off, but if you do take it off again then it's worth doing that at the same time. I literally bought a sheet of black alu mesh and cut out sections to wrap around the coolers by hand. The bumper then holds them in place.

Thanks for the photo . Yes, that’s what I saw in the grill. The middle section appears to be held in by some sort of star-headed screws. Assuming they aren’t rivets, I’ll see if I can remove it when next taking the bumper off.

Good tip with the oil coolers, cheers - I’ll order some mesh. I also noticed that all my oil cooling fins looked like they had been flattened out. I know there’s a metal comb tool that can be used to open radiator cooling fins up again, but it didn’t look like there was much space to get such a tool into the oil cooler fin sections.

[R1DSO]

5 years and 3 RX-8s ago I did this to bridge the gap:

viewtopic.php?p=950572#p950572

Sent from my IN2013 using Tapatalk

That looks like a decent solution too, thanks .

[New Duke]

I poked the front bumper today. The middle few blocked sections are baked into the grill itself. But the surrounding ones are from the blanking plate behind. So you were all right

You could open up some holes just by taking that plate off and leaving the few remaining middle ones. It'll sacrifice some rigidity I reckon. But so would cutting holes.

Here a video to show what I mean. Apologies for the quality and the dead bugs. It was taken on my phone at the end of today's trackday:

[R1DSO]

I poked the front bumper today. The middle few blocked sections are baked into the grill itself. But the surrounding ones are from the blanking plate behind. So you were all right

You could open up some holes just by taking that plate off and leaving the few remaining middle ones. It'll sacrifice some rigidity I reckon. But so would cutting holes.

Here a video to show what I mean. Apologies for the quality and the dead bugs. It was taken on my phone at the end of today's trackday:

Nice one, thanks for the vid. What a weird design! I’ll have a go at taking off the sections which look removable (without cutting) once I’ve got a 192 duct to butcher and some mesh for the oil coolers.

I also snapped one of the 4 bolt heads off at the front of the engine bay that holds the bumper on, so need to extract that too .

[Lemon]

I poked the front bumper today. The middle few blocked sections are baked into the grill itself. But the surrounding ones are from the blanking plate behind. So you were all right

You could open up some holes just by taking that plate off and leaving the few remaining middle ones. It'll sacrifice some rigidity I reckon. But so would cutting holes.

Here a video to show what I mean. Apologies for the quality and the dead bugs. It was taken on my phone at the end of today's trackday:

Nice one, thanks for the vid. What a weird design! I’ll have a go at taking off the sections which look removable (without cutting) once I’ve got a 192 duct to butcher and some mesh for the oil coolers.

I also snapped one of the 4 bolt heads off at the front of the engine bay that holds the bumper on, so need to extract that too .

i did that when fitting my RB intake, i'll drill and tap it out at some point.

[R1DSO]

The S1 has that area blocked by a soft panel fitted on the inside, that you have to remove to fit the ram duct

viewtopic.php?p=624121#p624121

The difference with the R3 is in the shape of the blocking panel

[delta0]

I poked the front bumper today. The middle few blocked sections are baked into the grill itself. But the surrounding ones are from the blanking plate behind. So you were all right

You could open up some holes just by taking that plate off and leaving the few remaining middle ones. It'll sacrifice some rigidity I reckon. But so would cutting holes.

Here a video to show what I mean. Apologies for the quality and the dead bugs. It was taken on my phone at the end of today's trackday:

I checked mine today after doing a headlight restoration (came out much better this time compared to last time I tried). My panel has already been removed.