RX-8 Owners Club UK

So im currently running red stuff all round which i like but im going to grab a new set of discs for when the weather turns better. Nothing wrong with the old ones but they are tatty.

Ive seen the black ones on ebay at a very reasonable price. Are they any good or am i better painting standard discs?

What do you mean black ones?
Given most of the surface of the disc is contact area for the pads any paint there will initially contaminate your pads and possibly trash brake performance, before burning off and leaving bare metal again.
I got Black diamond discs a couple of years back and they were a lovely dark colour, right up until I cleaned them with brake cleaner at installation and they became a fairly standard sort of metal colour. Are they worth the money? Dunno, but worth the deal I got from someone clearing out at the time.

Black Diamond disks have a protective black coating that wears off with initial braking (or as per Alan).
I have Black Diamond on my track car and have used them on other cars without issues. Stay clear of drilled ones though!

I've seen MTEC on ebay that offer corrosion proofing/uv protective coatings on their discs. Im probably going to get them when I put the car back on the road as the price isn't quite Black diamond level. Im sure I read a couple of people have used them before.

Do check you're getting the right size for front and rear (top of head 323mm and 303mm ??)

Yorindesarin wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 18, 2020 3:11 pm

I've seen MTEC on ebay that offer corrosion proofing/uv protective coatings on their discs. Im probably going to get them when I put the car back on the road as the price isn't quite Black diamond level. Im sure I read a couple of people have used them before.

I had those for a couple of years and they were absolutely fine, and looked cool. For the money were a bargain despite the scare stories and general snobbery regarding brake brands. £200 delivered including pads.

They will wear pads faster that smooth discs. Any drilled/grooved discs will though, particularly on track. Think cheese grater. No drama if you use cheap pads but I wouldn't combine them with fancy pads.

Ainmhidh wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 18, 2020 3:16 pm

Do check you're getting the right size for front and rear (top of head 343mm and 303mm ??)

323mm fronts Alan.

Ranjan once told me not to worry so much about what discs I have on. But rather get decent enough ones and top quality pads.

Yorindesarin wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 18, 2020 3:48 pm

Ranjan once told me not to worry so much about what discs I have on. But rather get decent enough ones and top quality pads.

^^ This. Also, remember that any groves, dimples or holes in the swept area of the disc the maximal braking power you have available. But they do help break up any water film in wet conditions so I do like a sparse J-Hook or grooved pattern for daily driving.

The standard discs are very good so cleaning and using a proper coating is fine.
Grooves I believe are primarily for gas dispersal which can cause a friction problem.
Unless your going on track you don’t need to consider things like that unless you like the ascetics.
Always use good pads for the purpose , ie : don’t use race pads for the road as you will compromise your braking.
Regards
Pete

I should really go and find the pricing on standard discs to compare to MTEC ones.

Pagid has long been my brake disc brand of choice for road cars

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Last year I fitted a full set of ebc slotted discs and red stuff pads, used the club discount think they were about £350 all in (even got a top up bottle of brake fluid) no issues (they come with a black anti corrosion treatment, this obviously wears of the fiction surface) stopping is good straight out the box

So about 50 quid or so cheaper for Pagid discs than MTEC without protection on em.

Thats what I was thinking Dave. Considering just getting some decent enough road brakes on the car to pass the MOT along with a cat so I can take it south with me.

Mask off the swept area, or at least most of it, before painting.

Yeah. Only really want to hit the edges of the disc and the centre. Don't want brake pads contiminated.

The Pagid discs are my choice also, and a full set comes to around 180 from ECP. They come with a silver zinc coating already but I always dust them with HT black paint for aesthetics. I don't mask them, I just do a few rotations aiming at the outer edge and the edge of the bell/hat. The overspray on the friction surface is negligible and causes no problems -




Always follow the bedding in procedure and never sit with your foot on the brakes after a hard stop, and they will be vibration free for life

*provided you don't a stuck piston or slide pin that is

One additional advantage of Pagid products (apart from being the OEM supplier to many manufacturers, including Aston Martin) is that they aren't as popular with the fakers; unlike EBC, Brembo, Hawk, Ferodo, and any OEM branded boxed components.

However, https://pagid.com/2016/03/30/beware-of-the-fakes/

I'm currently using the same discs as Phil. Just unpainted and naked . Paint won't 100% prevent the discs rust bonding to the hub (will help tho) and conversely rust bonded brake discs and hubs take all of 10 seconds to separate. Looks cool though as Phil showed. I do miss having black discs even if only for the appearance.

Am trying these this year as burnt out yellow stuff on track plus need new discs

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so its looking like the black mtec ones are the ones to go for.

im buying purely for them not going rusty btw. nothing wrong with the old ones just a bit rusty.

The black mtec isn't proper paint and new ones will be rusty within a few days/weeks/months anyway depending where you drive.

If it's just about cosmetics, then paint your existing discs, in situ.

oh i thought it was

For anyone looking at something perhaps more exotic and also looking to reduce unsprung weight, it wont be long until our floating Front & Rear kits are available