Underseal/Waxoyl

[Leck3000]

Hey everyone. So it was MOT day last week and all went well apart from a new advisory for underside corrosion.

I had seen some reference to getting the underside protected but its not an area i am familiar with at all, certainly with regards to options and also where is good to get it done.

If anyone would mind educating me but also any recommendations for someone in the oxfordshire-ish area.

[Dr. FrankenRex]

It would need to be fully treated first to stem the current corrosion. I don't know of any particular places, but my understanding is that it's not a massively complex or specialist area

[Nickp47]

This may be of interest;

viewtopic.php?f=144&t=80393&p=1241915#p1241915

[Nickp47]

OP is not a member, so canny read that

[AndyBrad]

i was quoted between 250 and 450 for the underside of the rx8

how much is a subframe?

[AndyBrad]

the one thing i keep meaning to do is a massive can of acf50 as you can just atomise it all over the underside of the car.

[Ollie]

Being a member would gain you a huge wealth of knowledge and discounts on rust prevention. If you go the DIY route there's a product called Vactan (members can save money on this. It's highly concentrated and is generally diluted for off the shelf rust converters). After this presuming no welding is required you'd use an underseal of some description (waxyol). Otherwise you'd obviously have welding done first and then underseal.

[Leck3000]

Thanks guys. As it has only just appeared as an advisory i do hope the extent is limited at the moment but when i have a chance i will get under and assess it more myself.

[New Duke]

If it's an advisory Leck that means it's already eating at key areas, it's just not officially a safety hazard yet (as far as they know). If you're not experienced with rust then take maybe post up pictures here (if you know where to look) or even better take it to a professional if you don't know how to evaluate it yourself.

The deal on Vactan in the members area may be of interest to you... but as with all this stuff you need to know what you're doing with it or have the time to learn.

That's the second R3 that's been mentioned on here with rust this week. Looks like their time has come.

[New Duke]

i was quoted between 250 and 450 for the underside of the rx8

how much is a subframe?

Like... a whole subframe? Incl fitting to the car? Crikey if it's gone that far the sills will likely be toast as well, not to mention what else will be suffering.

It's so much cheaper just to deal with rust properly/prevent it in the first place.

The thread that Nick linked to was my post in the members area about my experience on Friday having my R3 professionally rust prevented. Not just the underside; the lights, boot areas, engine bay, bonnet, doors, suspension... everywhere. And not with a traditional Waxoyl based product.

Definitely worth renewing your membership for given the quotes you've had just for the underside

In the meantime get yer RX8s in a garage with a decent dehumidifier. It'll help slow it down at least.

[Leck3000]

If it's an advisory Leck that means it's already eating at key areas, it's just not officially a safety hazard yet (as far as they know). If you're not experienced with rust then take maybe post up pictures here (if you know where to look) or even better take it to a professional if you don't know how to evaluate it yourself.

The deal on Vactan in the members area may be of interest to you... but as with all this stuff you need to know what you're doing with it or have the time to learn.

That's the second R3 that's been mentioned on here with rust this week. Looks like their time has come.

Thanks, unfortunately something that must wait until the finer weather arrives but an initial google and prices aren't eye watering but still not pocket change either.

For the love of cars!

[ChrisHolmes]

RX8OC members can have their cars fully treated where New Duke has his treated last week for £276 inc VAT so worth joining the club to be able to read the thread as a member.

[dac69er]

I personally wouldn't touch it until the summer. Especially if it's a daily.

You want it clean and bone dry before treating and sealing anything imo.

[RX8R3Rod]

Lots of really good advice here.

I guess the value of ‘I recommend company x’ is somewhat limited by proximity.

But that said, Rustbuster in Spalding is very good.

Before whacking on the underseal they steam clean the underside, flush the body with Salt remover, dry the car using infrared heaters, remove loose / heavy rust, stbalise surface rust with a rust converter, inject cavity wax with rust converter / inhibitor at high temperature and 2500psi (beats my old waxoyl pump can , I imagine) and ... then whack on the underseal. ;-)

And given all the above, you can have it done at any old time you like.

[warpc0il]

Bizarre as it sounds, given that treatment regime, the result may actually be better in the winter.

The relative humidity is often much lower on a cold crisp winters day than a hot summer day, which is why you can often get static electric shocks in the winter.

Obviously the metal needs to be dry and warm enough to avoid condensation.

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[RX8R3Rod]

That’s a really interesting thought, Dave ...

[Leck3000]

Thanks for the thoughts and suggestions. I have found a great looking company quite near to me (ish) and i will be speaking with them in the coming months. First job is to have a proper little gander and see exactly whats going on underneath but that can wait a month or two.

[untakenname]

After my last RX8 succumbed to rust (sills were shot and the rust went into the body though it looked ok with the damage being hidden by the aero kit) I looked at over a dozen RX8's before finding my current one, all the other ones I looked at had the bubbling just starting on the rear sills.

To keep mine in good condition I generally won't use it in winter when it's wet and the council have salted the roads but if I do then I rinse out under the arches and underside of the car with a bendy hose pipe attachment.

I injected Bilt Hamber Syntax 50 into the sill cavities and also undid the arch liners and treated behind them as well as treating everything else with ACF50

the one thing i keep meaning to do is a massive can of acf50 as you can just atomise it all over the underside of the car.

Did mine last year and when I came to renew it this year the coating was still protecting so left it in place.
I use the liquid 1 litre bottle and pour it into an empty normal domestic trigger spray cleaner and it atomised pretty well as long as it was warm (left the bottle in hot water for 15 before hand).

[RX8R3Rod]

Top work! That sounds like a really good approach.

[Delanor]

There used to be quite a few much regarded rust proofing companies like Zeibart in the UK but then they died out when the car industry started to make cars that didn`t rust.
That didn`t last did it!

*
*
Del.

[RX8R3Rod]

Oh gosh, yes, that’s a name from the past, isn’t it?

And as you say, very highly regarded

Just to make life perhaps even more challenging for those non-rusting car makers, I’m told by my local Mazda dealer that Lincolnshire is planning to use gritting salt that’s coated in molasses.

Apparently it sticks to the road better, but I imagine the stuff that doesn’t will potentially stick even better and more corrosively to the nooks and crannies of our chassis ...

[warpc0il]

Didn't they try that in Wales and the car vs sheep rate went through the roof, as the sheep kept standing licking the road...

[qwakers]

dartmoor ponies and ponies on bodmin moor get hit far more often in the winter, as horses are very partial to salt, and will stand in the middle of the road licking it....

[ChrisHolmes]

The must have detailing product in 2020 will I suppose now be “Molasses Remover”

[warpc0il]

You can use molasses to remove rust, it's an old engineers trick that goes back to the early steam trains, at least.

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