Oil cooler lines
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Oil cooler lines
Have taken part in the owners club group buy for oil cooler lines, so when I receive them I'll be fitting them obviously, just wondering if there is anything I need to know in advance, any hints and tips. Conversely if I discover anything that may help others I will pass on the knowledge.
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- goodeggbob (Wed Dec 04, 2019 5:41 pm)
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Re: Oil cooler lines
I can only really add what I put in the initial post which was -
"The RB guide is very good and you must take the removal and reassembly slowly and methodically. I did not remove the air con pump as some suggest but cut and prised the old pipe out from behind it. The replacement pipe can run a shorter route as above.
Apart from the usual tools you will need a slightly obscure 23mm socket for the original banjos and a1/4 or 3/8 UJ to reach the upper manifold 10mm bolts near to the bulkhead. Also buy a pack of the black plastic button fastners which frequently break.
Whilst the various items were off the car I took the opportunity to rustproof the subframe etc. Access to lube the steering UJ is also much easier."
In addition to that -
I found access to the lower engine fitting a little awkward, depends what tools you have I guess. I removed the engine mount beside it to get a proper swing on the spanner.
You will need some kind of fasteners/clips. I used rubber lined P clips, some attached to the existing brackets and a couple fashioned myself.
Removing the crank sensor connector is good advice too. Turn the engine over for 15 secs, wait 10 mins, repeat once or twice, check oil level, reconnect sensor and start engine, check for leaks, hopefully none.
Steve
"The RB guide is very good and you must take the removal and reassembly slowly and methodically. I did not remove the air con pump as some suggest but cut and prised the old pipe out from behind it. The replacement pipe can run a shorter route as above.
Apart from the usual tools you will need a slightly obscure 23mm socket for the original banjos and a1/4 or 3/8 UJ to reach the upper manifold 10mm bolts near to the bulkhead. Also buy a pack of the black plastic button fastners which frequently break.
Whilst the various items were off the car I took the opportunity to rustproof the subframe etc. Access to lube the steering UJ is also much easier."
In addition to that -
I found access to the lower engine fitting a little awkward, depends what tools you have I guess. I removed the engine mount beside it to get a proper swing on the spanner.
You will need some kind of fasteners/clips. I used rubber lined P clips, some attached to the existing brackets and a couple fashioned myself.
Removing the crank sensor connector is good advice too. Turn the engine over for 15 secs, wait 10 mins, repeat once or twice, check oil level, reconnect sensor and start engine, check for leaks, hopefully none.
Steve
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- PaulAV (Thu Dec 05, 2019 5:09 pm) • goodeggbob (Thu Dec 05, 2019 5:15 pm)
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Re: Oil cooler lines
Attempting to remove a crank (actually Eccentric Shaft) sensor often results in it breaking, as seized in place, while even disconnecting the loom can cause problems later.
Thankfully, you don't need to disconnect the crank sensor to spin the engine over and prime the oil system, without starting the engine.
Just floor the accelerator pedal while turning the key and the PCM will automatically select "Deflood mode", which I just what you need.
Thankfully, you don't need to disconnect the crank sensor to spin the engine over and prime the oil system, without starting the engine.
Just floor the accelerator pedal while turning the key and the PCM will automatically select "Deflood mode", which I just what you need.
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- PaulAV (Thu Dec 05, 2019 5:36 pm)
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Re: Oil cooler lines
Having fitted the braided oil cooler lines 2 years ago now I have a word of caution to anyone who has these, I've just had to remove 2 of mine, they passed very close to each other and over time and possibly since the engine rebuild they have rubbed together and perforated each other causing a leak, I would suggest a 5 minute check to ensure they are not rubbing on each other or anything else
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- willberry70 (Fri Dec 03, 2021 7:35 pm)
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Re: Oil cooler lines
Nylon spiral wrap is great for protecting braided hoses, and/or other parts from rubbing by the hoses.
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Re: Oil cooler lines
I used rubber lined P clips to mount mine, having modified the brackets as per the RB instructions. Where the lines pass close to each other on the driver's side, I cable tied one of the rubber strips from the oil cooler pipe brackets to one hose then cable tied the two together. This should hopefully stop them damaging each other.
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- GrantRL (Fri Dec 10, 2021 2:40 am)
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Re: Oil cooler lines
Mine rubbed where the passenger side to engine and divers side to rear of engine met, it's possible they weren't positioned correctly after I got the engine rebuilt, I had used p clips as spreaders at strategic locations.
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Re: Oil cooler lines
The trick is to support the pipes while recognising that the engine must move wrt the bodyshell..
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Re: Oil cooler lines
I think my uncle would like this idea for the incoming RX8 project. The oil cooler line needs to be replaced soon as they rub each other. There might be a fuel line leak, so we have to take a closer look. We'll just finish installing the rack and bed cover from 4Wheelonline onto the pick-up truck before we can clear the garage and start working on it.RussB wrote: ↑Fri Dec 03, 2021 8:55 pmI used rubber lined P clips to mount mine, having modified the brackets as per the RB instructions. Where the lines pass close to each other on the driver's side, I cable tied one of the rubber strips from the oil cooler pipe brackets to one hose then cable tied the two together. This should hopefully stop them damaging each other.
IMG_20210915_085826.jpg
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Re: Oil cooler lines
Cable ties are only a temporary solution, you will find that they will go hard and snap, or they will will rub through, the braiding is quite abrasive
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Re: Oil cooler lines
If you follow the Racing Beat oil pipe instructions, applicable to any flexible oil pipe install, these shoe hoe to utilise the existing brackets by modifying them and this makes for a secure install.GrantRL wrote: ↑Fri Dec 10, 2021 2:43 amI think my uncle would like this idea for the incoming RX8 project. The oil cooler line needs to be replaced soon as they rub each other. There might be a fuel line leak, so we have to take a closer look. We'll just finish installing the rack and bed cover from 4Wheelonline onto the pick-up truck before we can clear the garage and start working on it.RussB wrote: ↑Fri Dec 03, 2021 8:55 pmI used rubber lined P clips to mount mine, having modified the brackets as per the RB instructions. Where the lines pass close to each other on the driver's side, I cable tied one of the rubber strips from the oil cooler pipe brackets to one hose then cable tied the two together. This should hopefully stop them damaging each other.
IMG_20210915_085826.jpg
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- GrantRL (Thu Dec 23, 2021 8:51 am)
Rotary History;
Sep 2005-Aug 2006 EO55 XOL VR 231 New
Oct 2014-Mar 2019 OE06 EWJ VR 231
Jan 2019-Jun 2020 T200 CAD Orange SC 231
Feb 2020-May 2023 RR54 AJR VR 231 Modified for Track
Oct 2020-Mar 2021 YA56 EUE Copper Red Nemesis
Jun 2022-Apr 2023 TN07 JHD KURO Resurrected
Jun 2023-Jan2024 OV09 BFF Sparkling Black
Sep 2005-Aug 2006 EO55 XOL VR 231 New
Oct 2014-Mar 2019 OE06 EWJ VR 231
Jan 2019-Jun 2020 T200 CAD Orange SC 231
Feb 2020-May 2023 RR54 AJR VR 231 Modified for Track
Oct 2020-Mar 2021 YA56 EUE Copper Red Nemesis
Jun 2022-Apr 2023 TN07 JHD KURO Resurrected
Jun 2023-Jan2024 OV09 BFF Sparkling Black