SSV (not)bushing /the peg that acts at a stop for the mechanism silicone hose?

[sKenDread]

There's another thread that was asking about replacing the bushing on the ssv control arm where it connects to the SSV.

I'm thinking of using a piece of silicone hose. But does anyone know the dimensions/ hose size that would be required to fit into this space?



08 231 West Midlands.
RR D585 Coils, RRP COFS, miniMelon Map, Powerflow Twin Exhaust, 245 40r18 Uniroyal Rainsport3. Original engine 75k mi

[sKenDread]

It's not "replacing the bushing", it's just sliding a tiny piece of tube over the peg that acts at a stop for the mechanism.

IIRC the peg is about 2-3mm diameter and maybe 3-4mm long; it's a few years since I last did this so the measurement might be a little off.

I just used a cut-off piece of silicone sleeve from my tin of such sleeves used for electrical connections.
A slightly undersized sleeve stays on without the need to glue

Maybe someone with an engine/intake out of the car can get a more exact measurement for you.

[sKenDread]

Thanks again Dave,
Those measurements will probably do for me

For future reference.
If anyone has the exact measurements at hand, please pop them in here
Else I will take the measurements this weekend

Thread name updated

[obakemono]

I used a bit of silicone pipe and tiger seal to hold it in place.

[sKenDread]

Id 3mm length about 12mm but doesn't really matter if its a bit longer as it hits the side not the end.
Having recently done it you need the hands of a child to fit it.... I ended up removing a couple of pull off hoses
One thing I would say is work the mechanism for the final push home to make sure you aren't hitting it and get the tube fully on.
Do this by lifting the shaft that runs into vacuum chamber which swngs out the stop mechanism

Repeat this and release it a few times to test... want dull thud not metallic clack

[sKenDread]

Make sure that the tube isn't too fat, as then mechanism won't close fully.
Just enough to take up the slack and avoid the clack

[sKenDread]

Have a look at this thread..
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=79161&start=25#p1215303

[sKenDread]

Thanks alot for this help guys. I finally got around to fixing it. With the air pump solenoid feed tube. I put that over the nipple.
It was alot easier to get to after I removed the air pump. Carl from RRP mapped out the air pump so I could remove it and no CEL

There was another small culprit that had some potential rattling. On the bar that is connected to the actuator via the c-clip (don't know what that's called)
There is a small amount of play if I wiggle it forward and backward (nose to rear of car)

I could possibly put a small nylon washer in there but the c-clip is very fiddly and I didn't want to accidentally drop it into the abyss. So for now I've left it.

Thanks again dudes

[bigpete8]

Noticed your signature...
How do you find the lower compression affects you?
Mine recently tested at around 5.3

[sKenDread]

Cold starts are not a problem (now that I've changed the ignition! ). Hot starts are a little harder sometimes but not a lot. I have seen this as a common sign of low compression. Although I haven't had to push start it yet. Fuel economy might be getting lower, I'm sitting on 23.7 mpg average as a daily now.

I don't really have much experience with these MSP blocks and I have done a fair amount of time messing with and blowing up the older iterations.

Personally, I am not one to fuss about low compression and in my case, two faces of three on each rotor are lower which indicates a single side seal on each is worn more than the others. I have seen blocks with far lower results than this last for over 120k miles (no exaggeration).

I think there is a fair amount of compression fear-mongering around. And now I'm here in the UK I would say to anybody not to ask for a compression test but ask a specialist for advice on the problem at hand and or general health (how long will this last me roughly).

Just like all cars, a good hiding helps clear up some bad deposits and regular plug checking and if required changing, keeps things firing as healthy as it can be (plus the rest of the ignition) But I also believe that continuously thrashing the crap out of it only promotes wear and tear.

In my situation, I think I'll be happy getting another 20k and if not then rebuild. And it if only lasts another 2k then, oh well... rebuild. But ill wait for that to happen none the less

[sKenDread]

Thanks for that.
Mine was very even wear so at least that is a positive, I'm not overly concerned and unless she starts becoming unreliable a rebuild wont be on the cards.