Sill pinch weld rust

[Dan-Lincs]

So I keep thinking about my sills and some prevention to save them from rusting further, they are in fair shape but have started to serperate at the pinch weld in places and have surface rust all along them. There is previous welding done to the sills by the old owner which is sturdy and good.

What's the best method to slowing down the rust on the pinch weld? I was thinking about attacking it with a wire brush to remove the loose stuff, treat with a rust converter and then apply some underseal... Is this a good way or should I really be going back to shiney bare metal which is going to be very time consuming and more difficult on drive way to do the other side of the weld...

Advice?

[ChrisHolmes]

You need to get the rust protection / converter inside the sill, just covering up the outside may look ok but it's tge ubdpseen inside that will keep decaying.

[Dan-Lincs]

Do we have plugs in our sills? Can't remember seeing any

[ChrisHolmes]

There is a plastic trim strip running along the underside which pulls off revealing the plugs.

[Dan-Lincs]

Ok cool will look into that, guessing the spray products are the best for that

[13Black]

There are so SO many more as well. You should be able to see them under the layer of factory underseal.

It's a crime that no one has been protecting their chassis' this way over the years.

[goodeggbob]

There are so SO many more as well. You should be able to see them under the layer of factory underseal.

It's a crime that no one has been protecting their chassis' this way over the years.

As Nick said,there are so many access holes to the cills,we are really spoilt for choice. there are about 4 box sections that make up our cills,and all the main strength lies beneath the outer skin.if access from below is a problem then you can also access it all by getting in under the top cill protector which runs under the doors, through the boot area to tackle inner arches, and by simply removing the 2 10mm bolts at the bottom of the wings, you can get to that area where wing meets cill without removing it. obviously the more effort and thought you put in,the better the results will be,and a bone dry car and a hot day are best for good results,an extension proe helps too .rob.

[Dan-Lincs]

Ok cool. Let's talk products then... Any recommendations?

[warpc0il]

Waxoyl was always my weapon of choice in these situations
https://www.hammerite.co.uk/product/waxoyl/
but technology may have moved on.

[goodeggbob]

one other thing to consider is thoroughness, particularly in the cills,where up to 4 pcs of steel are joined along the btm edge,you need to find all the cavities. missing any one of them means that corrosion can still creep from one cavity to another.

[13Black]

Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50 is what I've used.

[pfletcher83]

The Bilt Hamber range of products are excellent. S-50 is also what ive used.

Paul

[Dan-Lincs]

Cheers guys, will get some stuff ordered

[ROTOR]

Hi,

Can anyone recommend a body workshop in west london or in the adjoining counties to refurbish the rocker panels on my 2003 RX8?. Instructions on how to remove and replace the trim from above the cill to access the cill box sections would be useful,as I want to check these out and waxoyl if possible.

cheers

[pfletcher83]

I dont know of anywhere down your way. But i had my sills replaced, front to back and both wheelarches for £1000 from a bodyshop Ben from RR recommended who is just up the road from him. The work was absolutely perfect with no trace whatsoever that the sills and wheelarches were cut, even the paint match is 100%.
I know its a long way from you, but if you are happy to travel its well worth it. He's not exactly local to me either, but any bodywork i ever need, its going there.

Paul

[AndyBrad]

acf50 is what you want.

[Dan-Lincs]

Cheers guys, how do we get that plastic cover off under the sill? It looks like it slides somehow?

[Dan-Lincs]

yup, slides out no extra fittings iirc

[goodeggbob]

it should slide ,but you will probably have trouble with the retaining screws under the wings. if you do,undo the 2 bolts holding bottom of wing and push out plastic bungs which hold those pesky screws.

[Dan-Lincs]

Had a quick look today and yup, them screws aint going anywhere!

[goodeggbob]

try pushing a flat plastic blade against the main bungs at right angles to the car ,this will release the bung so as to gain access without actually removing the rubber protector.

[Dan-Lincs]

Hmm OK that's not confused me! Are the bungs behind the long plastic strip? If so not sure how the above helps?

[goodeggbob]

thin plastic blade between rubber and cill,just push on bung whilst pulling rubber down,simples.