standard s1 discs are 323mm front and 302mm rear

[bigpete8]

Aren't you worried your discs will fall off???

I have this baby - that and a 4ah battery made short work of everything I have thrown at it!

https://www.direct-powertools.co.uk/PBS ... 7eEALw_wcB

Max torque 400nm


(Including the 3 screwdriver bits)

[bigpete8]

Was just looking out of curiosity to see what is actually advised for bedding in new discs and pads...
(personally I like to very gently brake at low speeds pretty frequently when first fitted then avoid the heavy braking for first 100 miles - just timed nicely for my next fill up as on half a tank)

From EBC Website:
BEDDING IN NEW EBC PADS AND DISCS

Use brakes with minimal pressure for first 100 miles from urban speeds of 30-50 mph only.
Drive a further 250 miles using slightly increased brake pressure and load UNLESS in an emergency in which case apply brake as hard as required.
Look for a full width contact across the pad depth( rotor braking band) from the outer edge of the disc to the inner and if not achieved allow a further 100-200 miles steady driving. You will see a blue-ish band evidencing contact across the rotor face. Until this band goes from the outer to the inner edges of the brake disc/rotor the pads have NOT yet fully seated. When installing new rotors, reduced width banding is quite possible due to various tolerances and slight misalignments in the vehicle chassis and is NOT a warranty defect or a reason to remove and inspect brakes. Many European cars have SINGLE PISTON CALIPERS and these tend to “Flair” open and cause the contact band described above only to be seen at the outer edge of the disc/rotor and work its way inwards taking up to 1000 miles to do so.
After full width contact band is attained make a further 10 stops from 60 mph to 10 mph in succession with a deliberate attempt to get the brakes hot. Some smells may occur even slight smoke during this final heat up stage of the pads in early life. Then coast the vehicle for a mile to allow discs to cool. Do not pull up and park vehicle with brake excessively hot. You must try to get the discs down to below 60-80 degrees C temperature before parking the vehicle.
When parked let brakes cool to a final cool-to-touch point. Before touching discs splash a few tiny drops of water onto the disc to asses its temperature to avoid burning fingers. If the water spots cause a “hiss” you have parked up too soon and should go out and drive slowly allowing the brakes to cool further.
NEW DISCS TAKE LONGER TO BED IN

Fully bedding new pads to decent condition worn discs/rotors may take only 200-300 miles but when new discs are fitted at the same time bed in times to achieve outer to inner edge contact ( full width blue-grey contact band as mentioned under point 4 above ) can be as long as 800-1000 miles due to extra components needed to be aligned to the vehicle. To Short cut this you can ( and EBC recommend should) have EVEN NEW DISCS Pro Cut Lathe aligned to your vehicle. This process removes only microns of new disc material and shortens bed in time by 75% of the time it COULD take giving you better brakes faster and avoiding hot spotting and pad glazing.
BADLY WORN DISCS/ROTORS CAN TAKE AN AGE TO BED IN

Discs/Rotors with more than 0.5 mm ( 0.020 inches) of lip at the outer edge or hollow in the centre of the braking area can take up to 2000 miles to bed in and will for sure cause Noise, brake fade,vibration and pad burning. Bad rotors can RUIN your pads. 95% of brake fade and noise complaints come from poor disc/rotor condition where the pads touch only at the outer and inner edges and have no chance to deliver an effective brake.


Compared to MINTEX:

To optimise the braking performance of your new Mintex brake pads you must allow for a
“bedding in” process as the new Mintex brake pads have to condition themselves to the
brake discs on your vehicle. Generally by normal driving the Mintex brake pads will require
approximately 200 miles to become fully conditioned.
During this period we recommend that you AVOID hard or
aggressive braking.
Caution: Excessive braking can cause the friction material
to overheat too quickly resulting in the brake pad surface
to glaze over and affect the overall braking performance
during this process.

[13Black]

Depends on which compound you buy as well it seems.

Also some pads have a gritty bedding in layer which you really shouldn't abuse while bedding in.

[warpc0il]

I suspect that the main reason for the difference in advice is because EBC also sell new discs and Mintex don't

[bigpete8]

Are you sure...
http://essexrotarystore.com/product/min ... -for-rx-8/

(I did consider these on ebay ones before going to ECP)

[warpc0il]

My bad, not noticed them before

[bigpete8]

Reading through the guide you linked me to earlier I was wondering if the bolts that hold the caliper on (not the slider ones) should have thread lock applied?
My new slider bolts seemed to have some thing on them already.

[13Black]

Yup, Mintex discs front and rear here and fitted plenty for other people. Can't fault them.

[New Duke]

I'm swapping over to Mintex ones soon as well. My drilled and grooved discs perform great (and haven't cracked!) but they tear through pads at an astonishing rate.

(Pssst, they're only £50 an axel on eBay)

Reading through the guide you linked me to earlier I was wondering if the bolts that hold the caliper on (not the slider ones) should have thread lock applied?
My new slider bolts seemed to have some thing on them already.

IMO:
1- No, just torque them properly.
2- Could just be muck that was already in there? It can mix with the silcone lube and brake dust and make a black/brown sludge.

EDIT: Got confuddled with copper grease.

[13Black]

Actually some of them come with blue thread lock paste on them.

Not needed, but no harm done and probably helps.

[warpc0il]

The "blue thread lock" doesn't do much in locking the thread but it does help prevent water ingress and corrosion, making them easier to remove next time.

[bigpete8]

Yes blue stuff on new slider bolts - hence the question about the other bolts on the caliper chassis...

[warpc0il]

I use a thin wipe of copper grease on the other bolts, as an anti-seize.

[akhan48]

Yup, Mintex discs front and rear here and fitted plenty for other people. Can't fault them.

I have mintex discs and pads on my R3 and can't fault their performance, however I don't like the fact that hub isn't painted or protected like the Mazda ones so they look terrible through the 19's!

[13Black]

Is true. Aftermarket black phosphorous coated discs are aesthetically more pleasing for sure, and probably no huge amount better/worse.

[Dr. FrankenRex]

*shrugs* BBQ paint them before fitting, simples.

[Delanor]

When I fit new discs I always use a Gold or Bronze heat proof paint on the hubs and OD - BBQ black is just so yesterday!

*
*
Del.

[Dr. FrankenRex]

Gold?!

I'm not pimp-enough for that it would appear

[Liam22]

Pagid OEM discs from Eurocarparts have a nice silver finish. They do develop micro-cracks on the race car but that's not a concern for most

Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk

[akhan48]

Pagid OEM discs from Eurocarparts have a nice silver finish. They do develop micro-cracks on the race car but that's not a concern for most

Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk

Thanks that’s helpful to know for next time. Some of us don’t have time to paint them!

[warpc0il]

Not all paint is created equal and I've managed to burn/blister "caliper paint" and "engine enamel" when applied to the discs and then taken for a track day - despite limiting the sessions to sub-15 minutes and doing a cool-down lap.

Exhaust manifold paint seems to be the only thing that stays on, also unlike the stuff that some aftermarket discs come painted with...

[bigpete8]

This mornings intended job was swap the rear discs.

Until I found this...

DSC_1879.JPG

Trip to ecp and much swearing at bolts later she's fixed but still haven't done discs...

[Humane-Hobgoblin]

That’s.... not suppose to be like that...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ChrisHolmes]

Was just looking out of curiosity to see what is actually advised for bedding in new discs and pads...
(personally I like to very gently brake at low speeds pretty frequently when first fitted then avoid the heavy braking for first 100 miles - just timed nicely for my next fill up as on half a tank)

From EBC Website:
BEDDING IN NEW EBC PADS AND DISCS

Use brakes with minimal pressure for first 100 miles from urban speeds of 30-50 mph only.
Drive a further 250 miles using slightly increased brake pressure and load UNLESS in an emergency in which case apply brake as hard as required.
Look for a full width contact across the pad depth( rotor braking band) from the outer edge of the disc to the inner and if not achieved allow a further 100-200 miles steady driving. You will see a blue-ish band evidencing contact across the rotor face. Until this band goes from the outer to the inner edges of the brake disc/rotor the pads have NOT yet fully seated. When installing new rotors, reduced width banding is quite possible due to various tolerances and slight misalignments in the vehicle chassis and is NOT a warranty defect or a reason to remove and inspect brakes. Many European cars have SINGLE PISTON CALIPERS and these tend to “Flair” open and cause the contact band described above only to be seen at the outer edge of the disc/rotor and work its way inwards taking up to 1000 miles to do so.
After full width contact band is attained make a further 10 stops from 60 mph to 10 mph in succession with a deliberate attempt to get the brakes hot. Some smells may occur even slight smoke during this final heat up stage of the pads in early life. Then coast the vehicle for a mile to allow discs to cool. Do not pull up and park vehicle with brake excessively hot. You must try to get the discs down to below 60-80 degrees C temperature before parking the vehicle.
When parked let brakes cool to a final cool-to-touch point. Before touching discs splash a few tiny drops of water onto the disc to asses its temperature to avoid burning fingers. If the water spots cause a “hiss” you have parked up too soon and should go out and drive slowly allowing the brakes to cool further.
NEW DISCS TAKE LONGER TO BED IN

Fully bedding new pads to decent condition worn discs/rotors may take only 200-300 miles but when new discs are fitted at the same time bed in times to achieve outer to inner edge contact ( full width blue-grey contact band as mentioned under point 4 above ) can be as long as 800-1000 miles due to extra components needed to be aligned to the vehicle. To Short cut this you can ( and EBC recommend should) have EVEN NEW DISCS Pro Cut Lathe aligned to your vehicle. This process removes only microns of new disc material and shortens bed in time by 75% of the time it COULD take giving you better brakes faster and avoiding hot spotting and pad glazing.
BADLY WORN DISCS/ROTORS CAN TAKE AN AGE TO BED IN

Discs/Rotors with more than 0.5 mm ( 0.020 inches) of lip at the outer edge or hollow in the centre of the braking area can take up to 2000 miles to bed in and will for sure cause Noise, brake fade,vibration and pad burning. Bad rotors can RUIN your pads. 95% of brake fade and noise complaints come from poor disc/rotor condition where the pads touch only at the outer and inner edges and have no chance to deliver an effective brake.


Compared to MINTEX:

To optimise the braking performance of your new Mintex brake pads you must allow for a
“bedding in” process as the new Mintex brake pads have to condition themselves to the
brake discs on your vehicle. Generally by normal driving the Mintex brake pads will require
approximately 200 miles to become fully conditioned.
During this period we recommend that you AVOID hard or
aggressive braking.
Caution: Excessive braking can cause the friction material
to overheat too quickly resulting in the brake pad surface
to glaze over and affect the overall braking performance
during this process.

Both the above are correct for the pads of the particular brands. But the Mintex bedding in process for their 1144 compound pads is different.
I know you will have done but you did degrease the new discs didn't you?

[ChrisHolmes]

Rears no (but they are still in the box)

Fronts yes and they are nicely bedded in, uniform across disc face.