Delayed action

[Ian9]

When putting my foot on the accelerator there's a 1-2 sec gap before getting power, nothing happens then it "catches" and goes which makes pulling away or slow driving cold or warm a right pita. Now granted I've checked or changed plugs ect but does anybody else get this, if so what was it?


Edit... Why can't I see this despite it already having 8 views

[Nerdstrike]

Could be a sticky intake valve. It might be struggling to open quickly, and starving the intake of air.

Get the bellows and air box off and see if it's opening easily or not.

[Ian9]

I'll check it later, need to see how to get it off first, had a look the other day, got the clips off but you obviously need to take the main house off too just to get the air box lid off. Is this a kinda common thing or not really.

[Nerdstrike]

The upper intake manifold might get splattered if you have an oil-burp. Oil burps are quite common, but I don't recall fouled throttle bodies happening that often.

[Ian9]

Ok, if it's not the tb what else can I check, I've cleaned them before on Saabs same with icv's

[Ian9]

Having said that, I won't be keeping it, I can kinda live with (might aswell say) 600 a year for tax (paying up) but not 15-17 to a gal local but that's my fault for not the homework on mpg.

And no I'm not slating it as they're bloody good cars and we all know to many idiots slate them because of the engines, mpg ect ect, I'm not it's me as I say. I know how to care for them a it's the same as the old 2st bike days.

It's a shame as I was looking forward to some happy times but not to be : (

[warpc0il]

What you're describing could be normal and you just need to adapt your driving technique.

There is no power at low revs and the engine has to be spinning even to pull away cleanly.
Some people blip the throttle and then engage the clutch as the revs are dropping.

That said, it's possible that the fuel trims have become corrupted, maybe because the PCM was trying to compensate for another fault, e.g. dying ignition coil.

Try resetting the PCM using this procedure from stone cold and see how/if it improves.
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=34703

[Ian9]

Ok....it revs fine though

I think the way I pull away ect is ok but I'll do what you say and see how it is

Do I need the radio code beforehand as I've not got it

[Ian9]

Seemingly it's a waste of time

Plus I'm not trying it till somebody says about the radio code

[warpc0il]

If you don't have the radio code they it's highly unlikely that it's been coded. They weren't coded as standard.

Sent from my SM-G800F using Tapatalk

[Ian9]

Ok but I've read on various places that they are and a code of 3511 among others can work, I'm very wary to try it incase I bugger it.

I notice you didn't say anything about it seemingly being a waste of time as I don't see how either how pressing the brake can influence an ecu reset.

[warpc0il]

The PCM is monitoring all it's inputs and the reset sequence is a bit like putting a cheat code in an old Playstation game, where a specific pattern of controller inputs gave you God Mode.

In this case, the sequence in the link I posted tells the PCM to forget all the stuff it has previously learnt about how your specific engine runs and relearn, starting from a baseline.

It can make a huge difference if, for any reason, the stuff it has learnt was incorrect or corrupted.

[PeteH]

Ian. We all have radios, and we all sometimes disconnect our batteries. So we know the score. Mazda didn't put any standard code into the radio. The owner could add a code if they wanted to, but very few owners did this. Those that did will almost certainly have written it down somewhere obvious. So you will almost certainly be fine. In the very unlikely event that there was a code set, a replacement head unit costs about £40, so it's hardly the end of the world.

And you can 100% trust warpc0il's advice. He knows more about RX8s than just about anyone else in the Country.

[bigpete8]

You could always try and dig out the procedure for setting the code.
You either won't be able to... As it's coded
Or you just have and as long as you remember it you are fine.

[Ian9]

And you can 100% trust warpc0il's advice. He knows more about RX8s than just about anyone else in the Country.

Does he

Well I just did this carry on..

Now the fkn car won't idle right and cuts out when slowing down taking your foot off the pedal....never did it before

Well pissed off!

[Dazza44]

did u do it with a cold engine and let it idle for good 10 mins before tempted to touch the throttle.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

[PeteH]

And you can 100% trust warpc0il's advice. He knows more about RX8s than just about anyone else in the Country.

Does he

Well I just did this carry on..

Now the fkn car won't idle right and cuts out when slowing down taking your foot off the pedal....never did it before

Well pissed off!

tells the PCM to forget all the stuff it has previously learnt about how your specific engine runs and relearn, starting from a baseline.

Yes, he does. And if you read his post you will see that your car now has to relearn its trims. This is totally expected behaviour. You can help it along by leaving your car to idle for 20 minutes (helping it with the throttle a bit if needed). After that your engine will have "tuned itself".

(And please tone it down a bit. This is generally a pleasant forum, and people are here to help)

[warpc0il]

@Ian9 as others have suggested, the most common cause of issues after this process is not following the instructions exactly.

Lets assume that you did follow the instructions but, for some reason, your PCM is struggling with the base settings and is having to experiment and learn how to adapt to keep you engine running smoothly - this means that there's something fundamentally wrong.

Likely candidates include but are not limited to:-
- MAF oil contamination
- Intake vacuum leak
- Ignition system (coils, plugs, HT lead) failure
- Damaged pre-MAF intake mesh screen
- Faulty IAT sensor
- Blocked fuel injector
- Sticking throttle body valve
- Stuck a/c compressor drive clutch
- Damaged alternator control
- Contaminated/old fuel
- Dirty air filter
- Faulty fuel pump resistor
- Something else
- A combination of any of the above.

A visual inspection of the spark plugs would be a good place to start, both for signs of external corrosion and/or indication of rich or lean running.
The FAQ section has a lot of information on how to check various components,
e.g. viewtopic.php?f=25&t=36391
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=36282
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=43997

The PCM reset will have cleared any stored events but having driven the car you can now check if there are any Pending events that may be a clue to the issues. Pending events don't illuminate the Check Engine Light unless a critical point has been reached, normally the same issue in two consecutive journeys, but these can still be read with an ODB2 reader.

[Ian9]

Thanks for taking the time to do that but being honest, as it's a greedy b***** to keep and run I'm not doing anything further to it.

[njkmr]

Shut door on way out..!

[Ian9]

P*** off

[MARKTHOMASBRAND]

[goodeggbob]

if this is the kind of reply given to members who go out of their way to offer sound advice,then we will not miss it.

[Naz]

World class plonker and troll. Don't feed it anymore. Though I may be too late by the time I'm writing this and he's already been banned.

[kopite72]

How did I miss this?