Bleeding Brake Problem

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13Black
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by 13Black »

Don't fill the bloody Gunson thing with brake fluid then lol.

Either I'm doing something wrong or right but my Sealey unit has been doing a fine job since 2016 and the lack of dents in my front bumper will attest to that.
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by nightfire10 »

This what I bought Image

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£20
Hayward's Street/bridgeported rebuild,595's,Tein coilovers edfc Racingbeat rear anti roll bar oil pres oil temp gauge pod's,lockwood front rear grills,Tinted wind ws folding tow hook's,595s,connect2 ,at long last sohn and ap50 tank instaled ,revi ram air duct already fitted ! calipers painted,diff oil changed .
just oil lines to fit at some stage ( had them a while too) :P

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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by 13Black »

Exactly what I've got with a different logo.
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by nightfire10 »

13Black wrote:Exactly what I've got with a different logo.
Tried both tops using fluid in bottle and 20psi blew straight out from reservoir cap

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just oil lines to fit at some stage ( had them a while too) :P

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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by Rotary Potato »

13Black wrote:
Sat Jul 14, 2018 9:48 pm
Don't fill the bloody Gunson thing with brake fluid then lol.

Either I'm doing something wrong or right but my Sealey unit has been doing a fine job since 2016 and the lack of dents in my front bumper will attest to that.
*cough*
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13Black (Sat Jul 14, 2018 10:38 pm) • nightfire10 (Sat Jul 14, 2018 10:41 pm)
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by 13Black »

The caps provided are the wrong screw type, needs a modified OEM bayonet cap.


I think you'll find mister Spudato that the front bumper is fantastically untouched and my engine still in my engine bay :D
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by nightfire10 »

13Black wrote:The caps provided are the wrong screw type, needs a modified OEM bayonet cap.


I think you'll find mister Spudato that the front bumper is fantastically untouched and my engine still in my engine bay :D
Hence me after a spare cap

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just oil lines to fit at some stage ( had them a while too) :P

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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by warpc0il »

The clue to the problem is "bayonet" , as such a fitting has to go in further to turn and then back off to lock.

In theory you could use a foam seal with sufficient depth to compress and still expand to fill the gap.

I tried with everything I had to hand and failed.

Either to much to allow the bayonet to lock and/or not enough to get anything close to an airtight seal.

Any gap and it's not just air pressure you're loosing, fluid sprays everywhere :(

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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by 13Black »

What are people -not reading- about this.

I have been successfully using one for well over a year now. No fluid sprayed anywhere. No air in mine or customers brake or clutch lines. :-k
Last edited by 13Black on Sun Jul 15, 2018 7:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by ChrisHolmes »

Yes but you have the melons power beaming from your hands
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by PeteH »

Mazda installed a brilliant device to create fluid pressure without any cap sealing issue. It's called a brake pedal. People like Nick need to be able to bleed brakes single handed, so vacuum or pressure bleed systems are useful. But even my 16 year old can follow "down, up, down, up" instructions. It takes a few minutes. It's quicker than getting my Easibleed out of its box. I just don't get the problem. :-k
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by Ashman »

I was actually showed a different way to what i would usually do. Pump the brakes then hold down and open and close the bleed screw quick, rinse and repeat a few times then onto the next wheel. The built up pressure spits out any air, nice 'n' quick! This is of course if you have someone to pump the pedal.
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by ChrisHolmes »

Anyone seen a donkey that lost a hind leg?
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by Ashman »

Replaced the master cylinder, bled the system again and nothing. The pedal still goes to the floor.

Any other ideas?
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by PeteH »

You've either got a massive leak or a massive air lock. A leak should be really easy to find. Any air lock should be easy enough to push through. I think you need another person to give a second opinion on this, because it's possible you are missing something obvious. (Not a criticism. We all do sometimes....).

Random unlikely possibilities are that one of your brake hoses has failed (and is balooning when you press the pedal). Or you have some strange failure of the ABS pump that is bleeding all your pressure (this would be very odd because they are "fail safe" devices).
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by PeteH »

I guess the pedal is actually pushing the master cylinder? You haven't broken the push rod in some odd way? :-k
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by boosted »

A little trick i learnt from my motorbike days when fitting braided hoses...after fitting and bleeding sometime never got a "nice lever" which on a bike with braided hoses is about 4mm play to very firm.
Trick passed onto me was cable tie the lever to the grip and leave over night...
So cars ive used broom / breaker bar to push pedal hard propped with seat and left overnight...and i dont know why this has always resulted in a lovelly firm pedal....
Note i do this without servo action car not running...worth a try...?


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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by Rotary Potato »

I've done similar using bricks. I always leave the resevoir cap off - while I can't recall, I assume I was told to do it that way.

I was told that constant application of pressure slowly pushes any air to the highest point in the system (the brake fluid resevoir). Whether that's twaddle or not, I couldn't say.

But it helped no end on an old Capri where I upgraded to vented front disks & braided lines. I couldn't get a good feel no matter how much I bled them. Then after 24 hours with the brakes on, a quick bleed at each nipple and they were great.
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by Ashman »

PeteH wrote:
Thu Jul 19, 2018 1:48 pm
I guess the pedal is actually pushing the master cylinder? You haven't broken the push rod in some odd way? :-k
Not that i could see, it all went together ok. The pedal did firm up a little when i bled the master cylinder after fitting but it just went straight to the floor again after a couple pumps. I also had a good look round for any leaks and i couldn't see anything. It will be something silly and i'll feel like a twit afterwards :lol:

The fact that it's firming up at all and no leaks present would mean that the new brake lines are fitted ok right?

No leaks at the calipers, lines or anywhere underneath that i could see. Also followed the lines in the engine bay and everything looks dry. So now i'm thinking it's either one hell of an airlock or something else is kaput.
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by Ashman »

I'll give the overnight idea a go, it's gotta be worth a try. It requires little effort after all and i'm all for that :lol:
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by boosted »

Yep try it, note brake fluid level in reservoir too...if it drops then you know air was in system...cap on off upto you caps have a bleed on them.

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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by ChrisHolmes »

You may hate me for this but you are doing the following the process that Seriousam posted of;

Starting at the further most point in the system

You say.......Down
Assistant.....Confirms Down
You............Open nipple and close again
You say........Up
Assistant......Confirms Up
You say........Down
And repeat

No pumping or releasing of the pedal at all unless the nipple is tightened.
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by Ainmhidh »

Ashman, are you around tomorrow afternoon? I could come and mutter confused noises at your brakes if you like?
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by PeteH »

Huw and Boosted. The reservoir is isolated from the hydraulic lines when the pedal is pressed, so I'm not sure that anything can get back to the reservoir when the pedal is pressed. :-k But..... I wonder if that method helps in the short term because it forces the air to go into suspension in the brake fluid (essentially, doing a "soda stream" on it). Perhaps, when the pedal pressure is released, the air then gets released from suspension as bubbles (like taking the "cap off the bottle") and those bubbles can rise to the highest point, which could be the reservoir.

I was sceptical when I read your posts but, on thinking about it, there could be some science in there. :thumleft:
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Re: Bleeding Brake Problem

Post by Ashman »

I haven't actually tried it yet, had some more pressing concerns with one of my cats :(
Ainmhidh wrote:
Thu Jul 19, 2018 4:56 pm
Ashman, are you around tomorrow afternoon? I could come and mutter confused noises at your brakes if you like?
I'll be available all weekend mate, well pretty much anytime really. I do need to get the cat down the vets once she comes in though so i may zip out at a moments notice. If i'm not home then i'll not be far. Ideally i need to get it back up on stands so i can get on with it. You still have my address?