Oil level increasing.

[Doblegota]

Original coolant FL22 changed 2 times.
Dexelia 5w30 the first 60.000km and ended with idemitsu 10w30




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[Doblegota]

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[Doblegota]

I found a piece is side spring in one intake port. The other piece is that one you see it was probably dancing. The corner seal was in place.

And the internal face of the rotor you can see it’s all in place.

The problem is in the exterior face as you see.


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[Doblegota]

To be continued


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[Doblegota]

The front rotor had all in place
.
E-shaft in order.


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[Doblegota]

It was in place that piece but I lost it.

As you see there was the problem from the external face of the rear rotor.




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[Doblegota]

In advance, all oil control rings in perfect conditions. No one burned out.



The bearings of the rotors are so.



Rear rotor

And now last pics below front rotor:



Next post irons and housings.

I don’t understand why I have low compression in the front. But I will show you a carbón built up in the exhaust port of the front iron. It’s a rock!


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[13Black]

Measure apex seal height, apex seal long spring height, and side seal clearance. They'll be a bit baggy which will cause your front rotor to be down I bet. Probably replace all of them.

[Doblegota]

Rear iron and rear housing:




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[Doblegota]

Front iron and front housing




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[Doblegota]

Nothing to say about the central iron.

Well,

There is my engine. There are the compression numbers above.

Back area it’s clear the side seal failure caused by a overheating coming from a clogged cat.

Front area I suppose it’s an excessive carbon buildup failure coming from the excessive work of these rotor against the rear one that it quite doesn’t work. So all the force comes from the front.

Oil nozzles are ok. Omp is ok. Fuel injectors I suppose are fine. Intake valves ok.

That stone you can see is shaved by the sideseals and probably a piece had scratched the housing. I can’t see other form to hit the housing like that with everything in place.

Both bearings, front and rear, started to fail. I don’t understand well why when I see the rotor bearings ok.
Could be that in order the failure of side seal doesn’t manteing well balanced the rear rotor and causing a shake in the natural movement?
I have seen in videos that rotors and E-shaft are not perfectly straight when machined. Rotor faces have to be balanced so the can spin straight. So again:

Could be a reason that the rear rotor get unbalanced by loosing a side seal and started to shake causing a bearing damages?
Could these destroy E-shaft alignment?

Before I decided to stop the car I noticed that the engine was shaking like an idiot when a/c compressor started to pull. Motor mounts are ok with 76.000km

And the last thing, I could hear knocking something inside the engine.

That’s my story people.

If you don’t mind giving me your opinion and possible solutions for my case I would appreciate that!

Kind regards.


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[Doblegota]

Measure apex seal height, apex seal long spring height, and side seal clearance. They'll be a bit baggy which will cause your front rotor to be down I bet. Probably replace all of them.

Yes, I will do it. But if you see that scratch it makes more sense that the low compression for the front.

Don’t you thing so?


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[Doblegota]

Ah! Of course I had a blow by entering from the vacuum hose of the low intake manifold entering in the upper part and oiling my air filter. That suction made also that a piece of spring entered in a side port.


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[Doblegota]

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[PeteH]

You have written a super report on your engine, with expert photos.

My guess with the front rotor is that the carbon build up has caused the apex seals to get sticky. As 13Black says, measure the seal heights, and the springs. Replace them anyway. Give your rotor a thorough de-carbon and clean. Then I think your front rotor compression will get a lot better.

The e-shaft bearings don't look totally terrible (we have seen much worse). My guess is that it isn't the mechanical balance that created problems. My guess is that the poor firing in the chambers with damaged seals has caused "firing imbalance", which has stressed your bearings.

Thanks for posting. I'm really looking forward to seeing the rebuild.

[nightfire10]

Great write up and photos

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[mrspiller]

I noticed that mine is gaining oil
Level last year too -a slight smell of petrol in it when drained .......
It was a discussion I had with a few people in castle Combe last year who are also getting the same issue ......
Time to prey to the rotary gods ......


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[Doblegota]

A pleasure to read you again Pete! In the moment you recommend me to stop I did so.

I have the engine workshop manual with all the numbers but not the tools for proper measures.

So that shake comes from the firing creating a shake that it does no bounce pairly when hits the rotor face by passing that power through the open side seal and distorting the normal spinning. Ok even could move to the side iron when fires forcing more strees than other side and causing unbalanced movements.

So it was a good idea to stop.

Kind regards

[Doblegota]

You guess sticky apex seal by carbon buildup.

I’m afraid I didn’t pushed to see if it was fixed to the rotor


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[Doblegota]

Ok is not precise, but clearly are under 5mm and are really close to 4mm being minimum height 4.3mm

Manual says that if I replace apex, also needed springs be replaced. These ones are above 5mm.

That’s the front rotor.


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[Doblegota]

Happy Sunday to everybody!



Cleaning and preparing all healthy parts for next step.

Unfortunately, housings are not good. ( I painted the housings to see the result only)



I want to ask you about resurfacing or another option to go away from buying new ones.

Thanks a lot!


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[AndyBrad]

brilliant write-up

[PeteH]

With regards to refinishing. It looks like the chrome has flaked off. If it has then your housing is scrap. I don't think anyone can fully re-chrome and refinish a housing. If they could it would cost a fortune. I think it is also very difficult to get a the existing chrome reground.

The problem is partly the odd shape of the housing, which means special tools have to be used. But the other problem is that Mazda used a special process. It is a hard chrome coating, with a micro-porous surface to retain a surface film of oil. Mazda also added a thin layer of some polymer (I think), which probably gets worn away in the first few thousand miles.

So your best bet is either a new one, or a good second hand one.

If you want to read a story about a firm in Canada that tried (over a 5 year period ) to do a rechromed housing, read this:
https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-perf ... 221/page4/

[13Black]

GarageREG do regrinding in the UK - I believe that's where Rotary Revs and RRP get theirs done - they're also in the process of rechroming but I wouldn't put money on it behind successful. Not for lack of their skill and ability, mind.

[Doblegota]

Colum Chadwick directly said to me that my housings are trash

Big thanks to GarageReg !

Bye!


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