What have you done to your RX-8 today????

[PaulAV]

Thought that was optimistic, I see 70 in second so to get an extra 45mph from one gear higher isn't possible, is it?

[79398]

On track 3rd gear beep is around 115mph

Beep is between 90-95mph in third on a 6-speed box with standard diff and tyres.
6 speed 231.JPG
If you're seeing 115mph then you're speedo is very optimistic or you've changed the diff.

Smaller diameter tyres, as sometimes used on track, would lower the gearing but the speedo would over-read by the same amount; so it would still be showing ~95mph on the beep, though you'd actually be going slower.

This graph relates just to what any given ratio can achieve and not to real world speeds surely.

[ChrisHolmes]

On track 3rd gear beep is around 115mph

Beep is between 90-95mph in third on a 6-speed box with standard diff and tyres.
6 speed 231.JPG
If you're seeing 115mph then you're speedo is very optimistic or you've changed the diff.

Smaller diameter tyres, as sometimes used on track, would lower the gearing but the speedo would over-read by the same amount; so it would still be showing ~95mph on the beep, though you'd actually be going slower.

This graph relates just to what any given ratio can achieve and not to real world speeds surely.

Its applicable in all gears except 6th where you are already at 155mph in 5th and things such as the speed limiter and drag start to have an effect. In my first RX-8 new in 2005 and 5000 miles on the clock I did see 160mph on the speedo in 6th but it wasn't going to go any faster.

[Cscameron]

Not mine but Ollies

Destruction has begun and i may be enjoying it far too much

[PaulAV]

How good is that battery crossbrace?

[PaulAV]

Decent but think Harry's asked for it? I'm sure he'll be along to co firm or deny shortly.....

[nightfire10]

On track 3rd gear beep is around 115mph

Beep is between 90-95mph in third on a 6-speed box with standard diff and tyres.

6 speed 231.JPG

If you're seeing 115mph then you're speedo is very optimistic or you've changed the diff.

Smaller diameter tyres, as sometimes used on track, would lower the gearing but the speedo would over-read by the same amount; so it would still be showing ~95mph on the beep, though you'd actually be going slower.

Perhaps it's 4th as I hit 120 coming up to Avon rise

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[warpc0il]

Yesterday I built a pair of front PZ suspension units, using springs and dampers from the group buy, a pair of new gaiters, and the top mounts from my original Mazda Sports units.

The original springs had gone to another member years ago, while the damper units, buffer stops are in perfectly usable condition and the gaiters look like new

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It's not really surprising as these units came off my car after only 4 years, as they all got replaced with a complete set pre-fitted with Eibach Sport springs, thanks to Casey.

Those units have done me proud ever since, including many track days, but since I'd been bought the PZ system for my birthday (how many years ago?) and we have another trackday at Kirkistown at the end of August, we though it was about time to fit them.

For the rears I'll need the top mounts from the units I'm replacing, since I also sold my original rears a few years ago.

Lookout for an advert listing a complete set of OEM units, fitted with Eibach springs, less the rear top mounts, and with an extra set of front dampers and gaiters; in the next week or so.

I also went in search of the squeeeeeak from my clutch pedal, as it was driving us mad the last couple of times we were out.
We weren't looking forward to having to remove the pedal box and re-grease it, as it's 14 years since we last did this and time hasn't been kind to either of us. We were even considering removing the drivers seat for better access - at least that's cloth so much lighter and less complex than "leather".

However during the 10 mile warm-up drive and parking in the garage there was no sign of a squeak, and you can't fix a problem that isn't there...

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[warpc0il]

Today it was up on the lift for a compete service and change that suspension.

Off for another warm-up drive and while manoeuvring into the lift the clutch squeeeeak is back
It's defo the pedal pivot, so will have to wait until she's back on the ground again.

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Dropped the engine oil out and it was black, as usual, but no signs of any nasties, even on the magnetic plug.
The filter came off with the nifty tool from David Silver Spares, while the replacement is a K&N that I was given, so that's just a socket job.

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The diff oil hasn't been changed for about 7 years, but looked fine and again no sign of any nasties; particularly no signs of broken "petals".

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The gearbox oil was changed last year for another lot of Redline MT90 in the hope that the crunch changing up into 4th when really hot on track, was just down to the old oil being worn out.

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It took a really spirited drive just after lockdown to prove that the problem wasn't resolved with just fresh oil, so now we're trying Redline MT LV. The Low Viscosity makes it much easier to fill and it doesn't even have that nasty hypoid smell.

We'll have to see if it makes any difference, once we're back on the road, and track, again. If it seems okay on the road I might even give Donal a call as he's now been made Manager of Kirkistown Circuit, and owes me a few favours.

There's new spark plugs waiting to be fitted and it looks like not a moment too soon, as a peek down that side of the engine shows oil trace coming down from the rear leading plug.

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I assume it's slightly loose or potentially cracked, either way isn't good.

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Hopefully the plug thread in the housing isn't damaged.

You'd think that a plug loose enough to leave an oil trace would lower the effective compression, especially when hot, but she starts fine hot or cold, and pulls like a train.

We'll see tomorrow what that's all about.

Also looking to see if I can replace the front suspension units taking advantage of the new bolts fitted when the front lower arms were replaced in the recall, rather than struggling with old one's. There's a few different approaches you can take...

[New Duke]

Well Dave your tidy garage puts my messy one to shame.

Today and yesterday I started to replace my leaking oil cooler with a replacement from Harry. With a couple of other jobs while it was in the air.

First was to re-insulate some melted gearbox wiring, whch had been shorting and causing the car to hunt at idle when cold.

Next was to have a go at restoring my headlights. I think they turned out alright for a quick go with the Turtle Wax kit for a tenner.

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Then on to the oil cooler. I scrubbed off the rust and worn paint from the donor cooler and prepped the surface for painting. I set up a makeshift spray area under the kids trampoline, which they barely tolerated were very understanding about. I avoided spraying the radiator fins as much as was possible.

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A couple of light coats and the donor cooler looked good as new and it was hung to dry where it could watch me remove the old cooler.

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Removal went OK...ish. The lines came off fine. I'd been warned that the mounting bolts would be delicate and fed them all Innotec and Plusgas penetrating fluid for 24 hours. But 2 of the 3 bolts had fused deep down in the bracket and snapped anyway.

Replacement bolts, washers and chimney nuts are on the way so I'll get the freshly painted cooler installed on Friday.

[Leck3000]

Just had my air-con gassed and anti-bac'd.
Having never really used it in the 7 years I have owned it (firstly because of the fuel use but then after a while not wanting to use it because I hadn't used it) I have had enough of hot sweaty days in the car with the burning tunnel and bitten the bullet and got it done. Looking forward to driving home later to test it out and I'm sure I will be enjoying it on the way to Combe and back.

Interestingly it still had about 1/3 of the gas still in it which I would reckon would be from factory, the guy was quite impressed and also a previous RX8 owner.

[nightfire10]

How much was it as mine says 15 but when I put a probe in it says 24

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[Leck3000]

How much was it as mine says 15 but when I put a probe in it says 24

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£116 for the full works and that was a mobile come to me service as well, it is less if you go to them but in this car it is cheaper to sacrifice the discount

[Lemon]

Woo, all MOT'd up!

[ChrisHolmes]

Also looking to see if I can replace the front suspension units taking advantage of the new bolts fitted when the front lower arms were replaced in the recall, rather than struggling with old one's. There's a few different approaches you can take...

I may be misinterpreting your post but you only need to remove the top arm bolts to swap the front units out, the lower arm can stay bolted up as is.

[warpc0il]

Yes, I wasn't going near the lower arm pivot bolts, as that means messing with the camber adjustment.
However, they fitted new bolts to the brake hose joint, and the headlight level sensor, and a new nut on the arb drop link, all of which helped.

The top arm bolts still had the copper grease on from when I last changed the units all those years ago.

Got both fronts swapped out today.

Tomorrow is getting the rears off, dismantling and building the new units, and refitting. Sounds easy if you say it quick

[na69dja]

We went for a drive and I'm happy enough to get the dog in

[Cscameron]

Took some more of ollies car apart



Also discovered that my axle stands are enormous and the little widow maker jack won't get the car any where near high enough to get them under the car and drain the oil Looks like I'm borrowing a trolley jack from work

[Magsrx8]

Gave the headlights a bit of a refurb over the last few days using, 800, 1200 & 1500 grit wet n dry and then a polishing compound. Still gotta spray clearcoat but quite happy with the results, despite an achey arm!

[warpc0il]

We went for a drive and I'm happy enough to get the dog in

Is that one of these on the harness?
https://www.ancol.co.uk/dog/dog-walk/do ... -seatbelt/

[Bigblueknight3k]

Well it's kind of done not going to get all but better than nothing

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[ChrisHolmes]

Took some more of ollies car apart



Also discovered that my axle stands are enormous and the little widow maker jack won't get the car any where near high enough to get them under the car and drain the oil Looks like I'm borrowing a trolley jack from work

Is that on a hard base or earth? Cars on earth and axle stands seem to like leaning over and falling off the stands, but I guess you are well aware of that bit of fun.

[GreySilver Beast]

Bit of gravel, bit of weed, possibly a bit ot tree under there somewhere not on axle stands yet but will be tomorrow. There will be slabs under the stands

Was going to have the whole garden/driveway paved before the destruction began but Ollie's car had other ideas

[warpc0il]

Only had an hour or so to work on the car today, so removed the offside rear suspension unit and rebuilt as PZ spec (spring & shock).

Small problem with the drop link as I failed to remove all the rust on the end of the stud before winding the nut off.
The nut got flush with the end of the stud, then jammed and the hex inside the stud rounded.

So now I have a perfectly good droplink that I can't get the nut off, or done up

Left it soaking in Plusgas and if it won't shift in the morning I'll have to use a nut splitter to get old nut off, clean up the stud thread with a die, replace the nut and hope that there's enough left of the internal hex to hold the stud and allow me to fit and tighten the new nut

What makes it frustrating is that it's my own fault, should have spent more time wire brushing the exposed end of the stud.

[New Duke]

Today I put the refurbished headlights back in and mounted the newly painted oil cooler with some new bolts and refitted the oil line.

Refilled the oil and ran the engine till warm. No leaks so I put the bumper back on and took it for a test drive. Then re-topped up the oil. Still no leaks so fingers crossed that job is done.

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The old oil cooler was leaking from a point where the 'protective' aluminium mesh that I'd fitted had moved on it's own and was making contact with the cooler side.

I can't say whether that metal on metal caused the leak, but I've decided not to refit the aluminium mesh to the new cooler for now. The paint on the new cooler is supposed to resist stone chips... I guess we'll see!