What have you done to your RX-8 today????

[Keke]

It would make more sense if the photos would download, but they keep failing.
I have a fresh set of genuine refurbished caps ready for the next owner

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[v-rex]

It would make more sense if the photos would download, but they keep failing.
I have a fresh set of genuine refurbished caps ready for the next owner

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If it helps here is a pic of the refurbished caps you did for me... And one of it in action on the wheel.

[79398]

Even Molly was impressed with my work cleaning and Polishing today
Changed a few of the pics which for some reason looked as if they had been taken on a misty day.

[ChrisHolmes]

Same stuff buddy, it was what the previous owner was using, so I just finished his bottle, enough for one full tank. Gotta go find some more, thinking opie oils is best bet? I doubt anyone local to us has it?

https://eshop.richard-shrive-cars.com/e ... D=19035023

Currently out of stock but they're usually the best price by far, even incl shipping.

https://eshop.richard-shrive-cars.com/e ... D=19034981

Cheaper and just as suitable for the RX-8, and meets the more recent JASO FD standard, whereas Kr2t is FC.

Another alternative https://www.westwayoils.co.uk/products/ ... g-5-litres

[Nanotrox]

Went walking up the lakes today but there’s something wrong with the car I’ve currently check for loose nuts and low tyre pressure

Crazy vibrations above 40mph and 60mph and struggling to accelerate its just horrible feel like I’m having to hold on for life it feels like it starts at the front right then the whole car is vibrating violently, under 30mph it’s not there

I am hearing an intermittent squeal around 20-30mph as well so I was thinking a stuck brake calliper but I can’t see any damage to the brake discs and it feels slightly different to when I had a stuck calliper on my rear

Anyone got any advice? I defiantly can’t take the car to RR to get looked at as it is really undriveable with the vibrations so will be a local garage job


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[hachiroku]

Oil & filter change today, and replaced a faulty oil temp sensor for one of my guages (readings at operating temp either bounced around all over the place or gave no reading at all). Looked like one of the wires had come adrift from a crimp connector, factory fitted one, not one I'd crimped on. I'd already bought a replacement sensor (under £10) so just replaced it.
New heat shrink put on and all seems to be working again

[hachiroku]

Anyone got any advice?

Stuck caliper? Wheel balance weights gone awol? Engine mount? Or something else....

Local garage should be able to have a poke around and see what the issue is.

[PaulAV]

Feel around the wheels after a run, if a wheel is hotter than the rest of would suggest sticking brakes, as do your symptoms

[bigpete8]

[ChrisHolmes]

Take off the front wheels and check the tyres for bulges and everything else suggested above

[Nanotrox]

Thanks everyone, went and bought a new trolley jack today and can confirm the front right caliper is stuck was really hard to turn the wheel by hand and stopped the second I stopped spinning it, front left seems like it's also sticking as well but no where near as bad but it is grinding when I turn the wheel by hand. Will get the garage to look at and sort it on Tuesday crazy that's 3 calipers in 3 months on different wheels

[warpc0il]

It's much more common for the caliper slide pins to seize rather than the piston, though the impact is much the same.

These can fail due to lack of grease but more often because the wrong grease was used previously.
- Copper grease isn't designed to be used on moving parts and can dry to a cake
- bearing grease can react with the nylon sleeve causing it to swell and lock.

Red brake grease should be fine, though Ceratek is much better.

[Nanotrox]

It's much more common for the caliper slide pins to seize rather than the piston, though the impact is much the same.

These can fail due to lack of grease but more often because the wrong grease was used previously.
- Copper grease isn't designed to be used on moving parts and can dry to a cake
- bearing grease can react with the nylon sleeve causing it to swell and lock.

Red brake grease should be fine, though Ceratek is much better.

Is there an easy way to tell the difference between a seized slide pin or piston?

[warpc0il]

If the slide pins/bolts are seized then the carrier won't move, which is obvious once you start to disassemble but difficult to check in-situ.

You can try poking a block of wood through the wheel and giving the caliper a thump, to see if the brake frees off, which can be a sufficient "fix" to allow it to be driven onto a trailer or flatbed truck, but not to continue driving.

The main difference is in the parts required for a permanent fix.

[sztriki]

Well, after a few weeks of back and forth and some misadventures I got mine back from a checkup.
I had a buckled front alloy, a sticking brake caliper and a starting issue which looked like low compression. On top of that I managed to flood the engine and couldn't deflood it. Alloy rim sorted at home, a company came, took the wheel and brought it back fixed and refurbed (gotta refurb the other one now) then ordered a trailer to take the car to Coventry. Then the VW that came for mine with the trailer had a battery short as he was winching mine and a small electric fire in the cabin, so hooray for that. Thankfully the bloke had another suitable car to take on the job and AA-d his home.
Anyhoos, starting issue solved with a new R3 starter fitted, brake caliper and new MOT sorted, had a new set of plugs put in and a compression test. It is on the lower end but it's even across the faces and there are only 3k miles in the new engine so gonna give it a few longer trips and see if it gets better, but as long as it's running and starting fine I'm not worried about the exact number.
And speaking of which I don't know if it was fixing the alloy or the new plugs or whatever, but the car runs, drives, feels and goes unbelieveably better overall from every point of view. Since the rebuild I was in two minds because it ran, sounded, vibrated a bit different to what it was before and I felt like this ain't the girl I used to love anymore. It was really a good drive home, so happy days ahead (knock on wood of course).

[rotatopotato]

Rather than taking it for longer drives, you should beep it as often as possible. Long drives at cruising rpms will only make things worse, you need to drive it like a sports car.

[79398]

Well, after a few weeks of back and forth and some misadventures I got mine back from a checkup.
I had a buckled front alloy, a sticking brake caliper and a starting issue which looked like low compression. On top of that I managed to flood the engine and couldn't deflood it. Alloy rim sorted at home, a company came, took the wheel and brought it back fixed and refurbed (gotta refurb the other one now) then ordered a trailer to take the car to Coventry. Then the VW that came for mine with the trailer had a battery short as he was winching mine and a small electric fire in the cabin, so hooray for that. Thankfully the bloke had another suitable car to take on the job and AA-d his home.
Anyhoos, starting issue solved with a new R3 starter fitted, brake caliper and new MOT sorted, had a new set of plugs put in and a compression test. It is on the lower end but it's even across the faces and there are only 3k miles in the new engine so gonna give it a few longer trips and see if it gets better, but as long as it's running and starting fine I'm not worried about the exact number.
And speaking of which I don't know if it was fixing the alloy or the new plugs or whatever, but the car runs, drives, feels and goes unbelieveably better overall from every point of view. Since the rebuild I was in two minds because it ran, sounded, vibrated a bit different to what it was before and I felt like this ain't the girl I used to love anymore. It was really a good drive home, so happy days ahead (knock on wood of course).

Take it where you can red line it in 2nd and 3rd for half an hour, you and more importantly it, will have a great time.

[Leck3000]

A lot!!

Today I finally got a long list done to start bringing the car along to how I want it and the future we will have together.

So a long day in the workshop with my mate and a 2post ramp.

Tein Monosport’s with EDFC
White line ARB’s
Cusco start bars front & rear
Oils changed - engine, gearbox and diff (only a couple of very small fragments found )
Braided clutch line
Bled brakes and clutch
RRP coils & plugs
Removed air pump
New battery terminals

A long standing list which I am so pleased to have done at long last.

Booked in for a geometry once over on Wednesday with a damn good clean before then.

Think all the work done so far and future wants and ideas deserve a project thread at long last. Since I’m on holiday this coming week I will look to get one started.

For now, a drink and a shower

[79398]

Well done, nothing so satisfying as ticking the boxes off

[New Duke]

I replaced some tunnel heat shield in a scrappy botch as is my style. Done an hour of driving since and it's not fallen off yet, so I call that a win.

Lifted it up and the new heat shielding is all still there, 1000 miles later.
Am happy with that.

[ChrisHolmes]

Take it where you can red line it in 2nd and 3rd for half an hour, you and more importantly it, will have a great time.

I disagree with this advice. Now that you have 3000 miles on the engine it is effectively "run in" and you can use the full rev range but not very time you go out and in every gear legally possible. It is perfectly fine to drive the car as a daily changing gear at c4000rpm as you did during the running in period.
Then once or twice during your drives go for the beep in 1 st and 2nd to feel the cars best and blow out any carbon build up.
As with any engine piston or rotary revving to the limiter very frequently will shorten the life of the engine as that is where everything is under the maximum stress.

[79398]

Think you might have seen something that's not there Chris, my comment doesn't mention hitting the red line everytime he goes out, I referred to going for a blast for half an hour.
Think you would find it hard to hit the red line all time on public roads not to mention tedious.
Personally I would advise against red lining it in 1st gear, I never do as I am not confident that the 6 speed box would handle the shift to 2nd well, I know mine doesn't.

[nightfire10]

Mine has no problem redlining in 1st 2nd or 3rd especially on track

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[79398]

Mine has no problem redlining in 1st 2nd or 3rd especially on track

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Well done you

[New Duke]

Mine has no problem redlining in 1st 2nd or 3rd especially on track

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Mine has no problem redlining in 4th on track