Hello everyone, after a long search I purchased a beautiful 2005 Strato blue RX8 from a member of this community.
I have had the car for a week and already had people stop to ask me about the car!
I live in Edinburgh and I haven’t seen any / many RX8’s around here for a while.
I would love to add some OEM aero parts to the car such as the side skirts, front bumper extension etc if anyone has any laying around they no longer want let me know!
- Neil
Hello 👋
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- Former Member
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- Location: Somewhere in the UK
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Re: Hello 👋
Hi Neil & to the RX-8OC
Please place your location in your profile, so as we are then able to help you, if need be
Please check out the EVENTS SECTION's for anything coming up soon in your area
Events Team
Please place your location in your profile, so as we are then able to help you, if need be
Please check out the EVENTS SECTION's for anything coming up soon in your area
Events Team
GreySilver Beast-Test Drives Unlimited (Nigel)
Club Member from 2006 - present
Events Team from 2015 - 2024
Events Coordinator from 2017 - 2023
Administrator from 2012 - present RX-8 Owners Club UK
Tesla M3LR AB 363 AWD " Blue Beast "
Club Member from 2006 - present
Events Team from 2015 - 2024
Events Coordinator from 2017 - 2023
Administrator from 2012 - present RX-8 Owners Club UK
Tesla M3LR AB 363 AWD " Blue Beast "
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- Media Team
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- RX-8: 40th Anniversary
- Colour: Crystal White
- Location: Barrow-in-Furness
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Re: Hello 👋
Hello and welcome to the club!
I got to agree the further up north you get the less RX8 you seem to see, I'm pretty sure the usual people will be around soon enough to welcome you
As for OEM things I actually have a set of the OEM front and rear mud flap body panels that are up for sale in the selling parts section in the forum, however they are not in your colour so would need spraying, they are brand new never been used as well
I got to agree the further up north you get the less RX8 you seem to see, I'm pretty sure the usual people will be around soon enough to welcome you
As for OEM things I actually have a set of the OEM front and rear mud flap body panels that are up for sale in the selling parts section in the forum, however they are not in your colour so would need spraying, they are brand new never been used as well
40th Anniversary Edition 369/400 203rwhp
Engine Rebuild + Street Port - 24/09/2021
Lightened and balanced rotors
Pettit Catback
Smoked Rear S2 Style Taillights
Exedy Clutch
CC Ultra Lightweight Flywheel
CC Counterweight
Tein S.Tech Lowering Springs
Racing Beat Ram Air Intake
Footwell LEDs
Build thread: viewtopic.php?f=104&t=83328
Engine Rebuild + Street Port - 24/09/2021
Lightened and balanced rotors
Pettit Catback
Smoked Rear S2 Style Taillights
Exedy Clutch
CC Ultra Lightweight Flywheel
CC Counterweight
Tein S.Tech Lowering Springs
Racing Beat Ram Air Intake
Footwell LEDs
Build thread: viewtopic.php?f=104&t=83328
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- Forum Moderator
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Re: Hello 👋
Hi and Neil - and congratulations Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:
1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).
2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).
3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.
4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.
5. Join the club for discounts on all sorts of things (you will very quickly get the cost of membership back - and then some), loads more info in the members only sections (including access to all the workshop and technical manuals), local meets (they were all postponed but have been starting up again recently) - if you can't find one exactly local it is a good excuse for a drive if you come to one a bit further away), a sexy keyring just for joining and more.
1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).
2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).
3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.
4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.
5. Join the club for discounts on all sorts of things (you will very quickly get the cost of membership back - and then some), loads more info in the members only sections (including access to all the workshop and technical manuals), local meets (they were all postponed but have been starting up again recently) - if you can't find one exactly local it is a good excuse for a drive if you come to one a bit further away), a sexy keyring just for joining and more.
'Grington.
former Club Treasurer 2010-18 (now finally retired)
Silver 192 green interior LEDS, Nordic Green hoop spoiler, roof inserts and wheels Silver Stripes (now finally retired)
former Club Treasurer 2010-18 (now finally retired)
Silver 192 green interior LEDS, Nordic Green hoop spoiler, roof inserts and wheels Silver Stripes (now finally retired)
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- Club Chairman
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- RX-8: R3
- Colour: Crystal White
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Re: Hello 👋
Hello and welcome.....
As already said, with these cars it is well worth the small annual membership for a massive amount of knowledge contained in the members areas.
We are also quite sociable with a full calendar of track and show time throughout the year plus the AGM in October.
Look forward to seeing the car and feel free to start a build thread or just progress thread which can be full of everything from high end items to regular maintenance to map the journey of your car.
Most importantly enjoy the car....
As already said, with these cars it is well worth the small annual membership for a massive amount of knowledge contained in the members areas.
We are also quite sociable with a full calendar of track and show time throughout the year plus the AGM in October.
Look forward to seeing the car and feel free to start a build thread or just progress thread which can be full of everything from high end items to regular maintenance to map the journey of your car.
Most importantly enjoy the car....
Club Chairman
RX-8 2010 R3, Crystal white, 26k miles, Full Mazda Service History
Daily - 2012 Mercedes E220 Coupe AMG sport, Deep Blue, 19 inch AMG alloys with Michelin Pilot Sport 4s, AMG BBK with drilled discs
Previous RX-8 - 2006 '56' S1 Pz Prodrive edition, Galaxy Grey
RX-8 2010 R3, Crystal white, 26k miles, Full Mazda Service History
Daily - 2012 Mercedes E220 Coupe AMG sport, Deep Blue, 19 inch AMG alloys with Michelin Pilot Sport 4s, AMG BBK with drilled discs
Previous RX-8 - 2006 '56' S1 Pz Prodrive edition, Galaxy Grey