Hi Guys,
I bought an R3 at the start of the year.
Loving the looks and sound. Its got a Toyo catted downpipe, but I think its shot as I'm getting P0420. But it did pass its MOT in Dec, so it maybe ok.
Not as quick as I was expecting, as my previous car was a Gen 1 MPS running an SRI and TIP with a remap. Probably about 280bhp.
Only mod planned is to remove the Toyo and get a decat fitted. I was looking at the RB twin resonated one, but thought you could get one made a exhaust specialist for a lot less.
New rotary owner from Inverness
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New rotary owner from Inverness
Last edited by alisdairm on Tue Feb 01, 2022 3:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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New rotary owner from Inverness
Hi & to the RX-8OC
Please check out the EVENTS SECTION's for anything coming up soon in your area
Events Team
Please check out the EVENTS SECTION's for anything coming up soon in your area
Events Team
GreySilver Beast-Test Drives Unlimited (Nigel)
Club Member from 2006 - present
Events Team from 2015 - 2024
Events Coordinator from 2017 - 2023
Administrator from 2012 - present RX-8 Owners Club UK
Tesla M3LR AB 363 AWD " Blue Beast "
Club Member from 2006 - present
Events Team from 2015 - 2024
Events Coordinator from 2017 - 2023
Administrator from 2012 - present RX-8 Owners Club UK
Tesla M3LR AB 363 AWD " Blue Beast "
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Re: New rotary owner from Inverness
Sorry for the MPS speak
SRI - Short Ram Intake (basically the cone air filter)
TIP - Turbo Inlet Pipe (from air filter)
SRI - Short Ram Intake (basically the cone air filter)
TIP - Turbo Inlet Pipe (from air filter)
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New rotary owner from Inverness
I understand my old Mazda 3 MPS MKII is still in the MPSOC
GreySilver Beast-Test Drives Unlimited (Nigel)
Club Member from 2006 - present
Events Team from 2015 - 2024
Events Coordinator from 2017 - 2023
Administrator from 2012 - present RX-8 Owners Club UK
Tesla M3LR AB 363 AWD " Blue Beast "
Club Member from 2006 - present
Events Team from 2015 - 2024
Events Coordinator from 2017 - 2023
Administrator from 2012 - present RX-8 Owners Club UK
Tesla M3LR AB 363 AWD " Blue Beast "
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Re: New rotary owner from Inverness
A Gen 1 MPS will feel much faster down to the torque and also being a minimum of 60bhp up on the best RX8's. Mines running about 320bhp (fully bolted CST4 and being mapped at the moment).
RX8 will handle better, feels lighter, sounds better and has suicide doors.
They are completely different feeling cars that is for sure.
RX8 will handle better, feels lighter, sounds better and has suicide doors.
They are completely different feeling cars that is for sure.
Mazda 3 MPS Aero - Cosmic Blue
Mazda RX8 R3 - Aurora Blue
Mazda RX7 FD3s Type R Barthurst R
Mini Cooper S - Dark Silver
Mazda RX8 R3 - Aurora Blue
Mazda RX7 FD3s Type R Barthurst R
Mini Cooper S - Dark Silver
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Re: New rotary owner from Inverness
to the whacky world of the wankel
A few of us RX-8 owners had some fun on track with a group of MPS's at Castle Combe in 2014, at Japfest, when the original Top Gear trio turned up and came out with us in 3 non-japanese cars . It was fun overtaking the trio 2 or 3 times in one 15 minute session and the RX-8's surprised the MPS guys with their superior handling and speed through the corners. That's my RX-8 in the pic.
Found a link to that event: https://www.rx8ownersclub.co.uk/forum/v ... &t=58057&p
A few of us RX-8 owners had some fun on track with a group of MPS's at Castle Combe in 2014, at Japfest, when the original Top Gear trio turned up and came out with us in 3 non-japanese cars . It was fun overtaking the trio 2 or 3 times in one 15 minute session and the RX-8's surprised the MPS guys with their superior handling and speed through the corners. That's my RX-8 in the pic.
Found a link to that event: https://www.rx8ownersclub.co.uk/forum/v ... &t=58057&p
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- GreySilver Beast (Tue Feb 01, 2022 7:41 pm)
Essex Rotary Full Bridgeport
Seibon Carbon Fibre Bonnet, "Racing Brake" front calipers, Racing Beat (RB) ARB's F&R, RB REVI intake, full RB Stainless Steel Exhaust & Mani, 20mm Eibach spacers, KOYO Ali Rad, Lightened Fly, Tein MonoFlex coilovers & strut brace, Axial short-shifter, BHR Coils & Engine Mounts, Greddy Sump
Federal 595RS-R or Rainsport 3
Seibon Carbon Fibre Bonnet, "Racing Brake" front calipers, Racing Beat (RB) ARB's F&R, RB REVI intake, full RB Stainless Steel Exhaust & Mani, 20mm Eibach spacers, KOYO Ali Rad, Lightened Fly, Tein MonoFlex coilovers & strut brace, Axial short-shifter, BHR Coils & Engine Mounts, Greddy Sump
Federal 595RS-R or Rainsport 3
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Re: New rotary owner from Inverness
Hi and alisdairm. I suspect you really don't need these, but just in case - have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:
1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).
2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).
3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.
4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it although with the R3 your redline rises with the coolant temp, I think the above is still good advice as it gives the oil time to warm up too) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.
Thanks for joining the club which also saves me including tip number 5
1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).
2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).
3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.
4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it although with the R3 your redline rises with the coolant temp, I think the above is still good advice as it gives the oil time to warm up too) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.
Thanks for joining the club which also saves me including tip number 5
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- alisdairm (Mon Feb 21, 2022 9:16 am)
'Grington.
former Club Treasurer 2010-18 (now finally retired)
Silver 192 green interior LEDS, Nordic Green hoop spoiler, roof inserts and wheels Silver Stripes (now finally retired)
former Club Treasurer 2010-18 (now finally retired)
Silver 192 green interior LEDS, Nordic Green hoop spoiler, roof inserts and wheels Silver Stripes (now finally retired)
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Re: New rotary owner from Inverness
We do one at Ryan Rotary Performance, will be updating the website soonalisdairm wrote: ↑Tue Feb 01, 2022 3:21 pmHi Guys,
I bought an R3 at the start of the year.
Loving the looks and sound. Its got a Toyo catted downpipe, but I think its shot as I'm getting P0420. But it did pass its MOT in Dec, so it maybe ok.
Not as quick as I was expecting, as my previous car was a Gen 1 MPS running an SRI and TIP with a remap. Probably about 280bhp.
Only mod planned is to remove the Toyo and get a decat fitted. I was looking at the RB twin resonated one, but thought you could get one made a exhaust specialist for a lot less.
15th year of ownership and still here
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Re: New rotary owner from Inverness
I was actually looking at emailing RRP to see if you do a dual res decat do you know how much you'd be selling them for?
Also welcome Alisdairm! the car is honestly not the fastest thing in the world especially compared to modern cars but it comes into a league of its own on backroads and the high revs are very addictive
40th Anniversary Edition 369/400 203rwhp
Engine Rebuild + Street Port - 24/09/2021
Lightened and balanced rotors
Pettit Catback
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Exedy Clutch
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Footwell LEDs
Build thread: viewtopic.php?f=104&t=83328
Engine Rebuild + Street Port - 24/09/2021
Lightened and balanced rotors
Pettit Catback
Smoked Rear S2 Style Taillights
Exedy Clutch
CC Ultra Lightweight Flywheel
CC Counterweight
Tein S.Tech Lowering Springs
Racing Beat Ram Air Intake
Footwell LEDs
Build thread: viewtopic.php?f=104&t=83328
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Re: New rotary owner from Inverness
Sure,Nanotrox wrote: ↑Fri Feb 18, 2022 3:27 pmI was actually looking at emailing RRP to see if you do a dual res decat do you know how much you'd be selling them for?
Also welcome Alisdairm! the car is honestly not the fastest thing in the world especially compared to modern cars but it comes into a league of its own on backroads and the high revs are very addictive
We can do dual resonated for £450
Resonator & muffled for £530
Neither has a O2 boss, we can put one in but you'll need to extend the wiring on the sensor.
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- Nanotrox (Fri Feb 18, 2022 3:58 pm)
15th year of ownership and still here