New Forum, New Car!

[DomN]

Afternoon all,

I'm new to the forums and the world of RX8s. I put off buying one for too long, falling pray to the "horror" stories out there and arguing that they were too impractical, but I'm now at a point where I don't do as many miles, the wife has a nice comfy SUV thing, so I can have my RX8 :-)
After researching for what seems like forever, I've finally taken the plunge and bought a 2008 231 in Stormy Blue. She didn't miss a beat on the near 200 mile drive home with her yesterday so hopefully that's a good sign!



One question I have, I don't know 100% what oil brand is currently in the car. I know it's got 5w30 in it and the garage I bought it off has recommended upping to 10w40 on the next change. But for now, can I top up with any of the recommended 5w30s? Does potentially mixing brands matter for instance?

Ta!

Dom

[DomN]

and congrat`s on your new acquisition.

Have a read up on the Buyers Guide if you haven`t already its up there ^^^^^ on the header.

Without going into too much detail with regard to "the correct oil" read up here Oil101 for newbies and go by that for now.

Then when time suits change to 10w-40 as recommended.

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Del.

[Ainmhidh]

Hi Dom and welcome to the forum. I'm sure the usual welcoming committee will be along shortly, but in the meantime my (non-professional) understanding is you should be fine using any of the standard mineral oils - no reason you couldn't top up with e.g. Millers 10/40 even if it's currently full of XYZ 5/30 - it'll just make what's in it already a bit 'thicker' (like maybe 6/32 if you added a whole litre).

edit: What Del said.

[kopite72]

Change the oil ( double flush ) for millers 10-40 semi synthetic,it's a top quality oil that I have used for years on my 8 without issue.Rotary Revs use it so if it's good enough for them....

I'd also consider new coils if you're unsure of the ones that are currently on her,Ryan Rotary Performance do a top quality product.If it was me i'd change every fluid in the car just for peace of mind but also just because its good practice.Don't know what the tyres are like but if they aren't a top brand i can personally recommend Vredestein Vorti's but other people will also recommend top quality tyres also.

That should keep you busy for a bit

[GreySilver Beast]

Hi Dom & to the RX-8OC

<<<<<< Please put your Location in your Profile Box, it will help us to know where you are, if required any help in the future

Please check out the EVENTS SECTION's for anything coming up soon in your area

Events Team

[DomN]

Thanks all,
Tyre change is on the cards as it's got cheapo Chinese ones on at the mo. It has had new coils and leads, I forget what the guy said they were tho!
Great info on that oil page etc and thanks for clarifying the top up situation. For some reason I had in my head that you shouldn't mix oils etc but that could have been back in my ford Capri days

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[YORKSHIRE777]

Welcome drive it and forget the horror story's enjoy

[Delanor]

Thanks all,
Tyre change is on the cards as it's got cheapo Chinese ones on at the mo. It has had new coils and leads, I forget what the guy said they were tho!

It is difficult spending if you think its not needed but if the previous owner has fitted cheap Chinese tyres then chances are that its the same for the ignition components and if your Rotary is misfiring its difficult to tell and any unburnt fuel washes the seal oil lubricant away and whilst you will get away with it to a certain extent in a piston engine you won`t with a Rotary and worn seals means low compression which will eventually force an expensive rebuild.

For eg. eBay cheapies £40 ignition coils whilst a quality set of OE Mazda coils = £300+ with other makes in between!

Better to be safe than sorry.

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Del.

[DomN]

Cheers Del,

The car actually had some Falkens on it but I got the garage to swap the wheels for me as part of the sale, the Falkens were nearly dead (on the wear line) and on really kerbed wheels and the fresh refurbed ones had the Chinese tyres. So went for the nicer wheels with the idea of swapping tyres soonish.
He did tell me what coils were in it, wanna say they're the D585s? With magnacor leads.
I'll get out there at the weekend and have a look as like you say, don't mind springing for stuff like that which will provide longevity if it's needed

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[Delanor]

If they are D585`s that is a conversion kit and Magnecor leads will do nicely to go with them.

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Del.

[Nickp47]

Just to clear it up, the guy said he fitted a set of good used Revision C coils with Magnecor leads as the car was still running its originals (which tbf were working pretty well)

[DomN]

That was it! Rev cs. Thanks Nick

[DomN]

Hi and DomN. Looks very nice

Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:

1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).

2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).

3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.

4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.

5. Join the club for discounts on all sorts of things (you will very quickly get the cost of membership back - and then some), loads more info in the members only sections (including access to all the workshop and technical manuals), local meets (they were all postponed but have been starting up again recently) - if you can't find one exactly local it is a good excuse for a drive if you come to one a bit further away), a sexy keyring just for joining and more.

[casey]

to the wonderfully whacky world of the wankel

[Paul_13]

When I was younger people always slated these cars off saying they're unreliable etc but out of all the cars I've owned since I started driving, the rx8 engine had given me the least grief.
Don't listen to the nay-sayers and enjoy it.
This forum has plenty of information to help you and we are a knowledgable and helpful bunch.

[Koren]

1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).

Been meaning to ask, what happens if you start it before the lights go out? I'm sure I've done it a couple of time sin absent minded impatience

When I was younger people always slated these cars off saying they're unreliable etc but out of all the cars I've owned since I started driving, the rx8 engine had given me the least grief.
Don't listen to the nay-sayers and enjoy it.
This forum has plenty of information to help you and we are a knowledgable and helpful bunch.

Mine is less reliable than my friend's Citroen. But on the plus side at least I don't have to drive a Citroen

Thanks all,
Tyre change is on the cards as it's got cheapo Chinese ones on at the mo. It has had new coils and leads, I forget what the guy said they were tho!
Great info on that oil page etc and thanks for clarifying the top up situation. For some reason I had in my head that you shouldn't mix oils etc but that could have been back in my ford Capri days

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Oh no not a capri driver https://photos.app.goo.gl/Gsr8yuYkm6SKyvts6 Welcome to the forum!

[Paul_13]

1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).

Been meaning to ask, what happens if you start it before the lights go out? I'm sure I've done it a couple of time sin absent minded impatience

When I was younger people always slated these cars off saying they're unreliable etc but out of all the cars I've owned since I started driving, the rx8 engine had given me the least grief.
Don't listen to the nay-sayers and enjoy it.
This forum has plenty of information to help you and we are a knowledgable and helpful bunch.

Mine is less reliable than my friend's Citroen. But on the plus side at least I don't have to drive a Citroen

Thanks all,
Tyre change is on the cards as it's got cheapo Chinese ones on at the mo. It has had new coils and leads, I forget what the guy said they were tho!
Great info on that oil page etc and thanks for clarifying the top up situation. For some reason I had in my head that you shouldn't mix oils etc but that could have been back in my ford Capri days

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Oh no not a capri driver https://photos.app.goo.gl/Gsr8yuYkm6SKyvts6 Welcome to the forum!

I'm a Peugeot convert to JDM

[Koren]

1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).

Been meaning to ask, what happens if you start it before the lights go out? I'm sure I've done it a couple of time sin absent minded impatience

More often than not - nothing. It is doing all the "pre-flight" checks on the electronics etc, so maybe the display won't work properly or something. I expect there are other possibilities

[Ainmhidh]

Hi DomN - thanks for joining as a full member. Official welcome email and welcome pack to follow soon!