Hi everyone.
I've just bought a Nordic green 2005 RX8 192 from a friend who decided he didn't need 2 cars any more. It's been stood since the start of lockdown in March last year, so needs a bit of attention to get it up and running again.
I wasn't actually looking for another car (I already have an MX-5 which has become a bit of a project car) so it was a bit of an impulse purchase. Time will tell whether I made a good decision but it was cheap enough that I won't be out of pocket even if I have to give up and break it for parts! Hopefully it won't come to that.
So far it needs a binding front caliper sorted plus a leaking oil pipe at the front left oil cooler.
My plan is to sort the oil leak and front brakes then get it through an MOT before I decide whether to spend money on doing some other jobs on it, like sorting a couple of bits of rust.
The good news is that it starts quickly from cold and hot and all the electrics work, including the ice cold climate control.
Next thing on my list is to join as a member before I get into buying parts and needing some mechanical advice
I'll post some photos once I've worked out somewhere to host them.
New owner - Nordic Green 192
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- Spin Doctor
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Re: New owner - Nordic Green 192
Join as a member and you can attach photos directly, no host required.
The rest of the wagon will be along soon...
The rest of the wagon will be along soon...
- These users thanked the author warpc0il for the post:
- RussB (Sun Jun 27, 2021 1:38 pm)
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- Club Member
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Re: New owner - Nordic Green 192
Thanks. I've just signed up, so as soon as that takes effect I'll get the phots up
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Re: New owner - Nordic Green 192
Welcome, fingers crossed you don’t break it with Nordic Green being a rare colour . Starting from hot is a good sign at least
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Re: New owner - Nordic Green 192
- hopefully you'll be able to get it back on the road
Essex Rotary Full Bridgeport
Seibon Carbon Fibre Bonnet, "Racing Brake" front calipers, Racing Beat (RB) ARB's F&R, RB REVI intake, full RB Stainless Steel Exhaust & Mani, 20mm Eibach spacers, KOYO Ali Rad, Lightened Fly, Tein MonoFlex coilovers & strut brace, Axial short-shifter, BHR Coils & Engine Mounts, Greddy Sump
Federal 595RS-R or Rainsport 3
Seibon Carbon Fibre Bonnet, "Racing Brake" front calipers, Racing Beat (RB) ARB's F&R, RB REVI intake, full RB Stainless Steel Exhaust & Mani, 20mm Eibach spacers, KOYO Ali Rad, Lightened Fly, Tein MonoFlex coilovers & strut brace, Axial short-shifter, BHR Coils & Engine Mounts, Greddy Sump
Federal 595RS-R or Rainsport 3
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New owner - Nordic Green 192
Hi Russ & to the RX-8OC
Please check out the EVENTS SECTION's for anything coming up soon in your area
Events Team
Please check out the EVENTS SECTION's for anything coming up soon in your area
Events Team
GreySilver Beast-Test Drives Unlimited (Nigel)
Club Member from 2006 - present
Events Team from 2015 - 2024
Events Coordinator from 2017 - 2023
Administrator from 2012 - present RX-8 Owners Club UK
Tesla M3LR AB 363 AWD " Blue Beast "
Club Member from 2006 - present
Events Team from 2015 - 2024
Events Coordinator from 2017 - 2023
Administrator from 2012 - present RX-8 Owners Club UK
Tesla M3LR AB 363 AWD " Blue Beast "
Re: New owner - Nordic Green 192
Nordic green is a lovely colour and seems to suit the RX8 really well.
Looking forward to seeing some photo’s.
Looking forward to seeing some photo’s.
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Re: New owner - Nordic Green 192
Hi and RussB. Stainless steel braided oil cooler pipes (I got mine from Mazda Rotary Parts/Racing Beat Europe) are a sound investment as a replacement for your leaky ones if you are keeping the car.
Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:
1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).
2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).
3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.
4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it ) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.
It sounds like you have pre-empted my 5th (and most important) tip to join the club ... you should be upgraded and get access to everywhere before long, but it is a manual process so it does need someone with access to all the right buttons to get away from work, family and so on.
Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:
1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).
2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).
3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.
4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it ) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.
It sounds like you have pre-empted my 5th (and most important) tip to join the club ... you should be upgraded and get access to everywhere before long, but it is a manual process so it does need someone with access to all the right buttons to get away from work, family and so on.
- These users thanked the author Shagrington for the post (total 2):
- RussB (Mon Jun 28, 2021 9:46 pm) • Torque23 (Tue Jul 06, 2021 3:26 pm)
'Grington.
former Club Treasurer 2010-18 (now finally retired)
Silver 192 green interior LEDS, Nordic Green hoop spoiler, roof inserts and wheels Silver Stripes (now finally retired)
former Club Treasurer 2010-18 (now finally retired)
Silver 192 green interior LEDS, Nordic Green hoop spoiler, roof inserts and wheels Silver Stripes (now finally retired)
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- Club Member
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- Colour: Nordic Green
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Re: New owner - Nordic Green 192
Thanks. I'm keen to get the car sorted and keep it for a bit, but trying not to get too carried away with spending before I've confirmed it's solid enough to get through the MOT without too much bother.
I've been reading the FAQ a fair bit since agreeing to buy it. Fortunately the previous owner was pretty hot on keeping the oil topped up and it even came with a full bottle of Fuchs 5w30 in the boot. I've ordered some 10w40 from Opie Oils ready to refill once I've sorted the oil leak.
Looking forward to being upgraded and getting to dig into more of the technical detail (and add some pictures).
I've been reading the FAQ a fair bit since agreeing to buy it. Fortunately the previous owner was pretty hot on keeping the oil topped up and it even came with a full bottle of Fuchs 5w30 in the boot. I've ordered some 10w40 from Opie Oils ready to refill once I've sorted the oil leak.
Looking forward to being upgraded and getting to dig into more of the technical detail (and add some pictures).
-
- Club Member
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Tue Jun 22, 2021 10:58 pm
- RX-8: 192
- Colour: Nordic Green
- Location: Gloucestershire
- Has thanked: 13 times
- Been thanked: 8 times
Re: New owner - Nordic Green 192
Some photos for you of how it looks now it's had a bit of a clean. I'll probably start a thread elsewhere to show what I've done so far.
It's currently in the air so I can take the front offside caliper off to try and free it up and to inspect which oil cooler pipe is leaking, but I hurt my back on Sunday so I've had to leave it for a couple of days. The bolts are all soaked in penetrating fluid though...
It's currently in the air so I can take the front offside caliper off to try and free it up and to inspect which oil cooler pipe is leaking, but I hurt my back on Sunday so I've had to leave it for a couple of days. The bolts are all soaked in penetrating fluid though...
- These users thanked the author RussB for the post (total 4):
- Ainmhidh (Tue Jun 29, 2021 9:54 pm) • GreySilver Beast (Tue Jun 29, 2021 9:59 pm) • Nickp47 (Tue Jun 29, 2021 10:02 pm) • HarSc (Wed Jun 30, 2021 10:32 am)