New
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New
Hi....just joined club. Picking up my white R3 tomorrow. Any tips on the differences with looking after this beast much appreciated. Thanks, Ben.
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Re: New
Others may pop in with more advice. I would just suggest reading the owners manual carefully. There's a digital version in the Technical part of the members area if you don't have a physical one.
I'd suggest checking the oil dipstick every other fuel fill up (as it says in the manual). I'd also suggest waiting a good 20 mins of normal driving before blasting it above 6k rpm. To be sure that the oil has gotten hot enough. Other than that just enjoy like you would in any other car.
There's no need for premixing or oil catch cans etc in the R3. Some people do... but there's no need. Hope you have fun and welcome!
I'd suggest checking the oil dipstick every other fuel fill up (as it says in the manual). I'd also suggest waiting a good 20 mins of normal driving before blasting it above 6k rpm. To be sure that the oil has gotten hot enough. Other than that just enjoy like you would in any other car.
There's no need for premixing or oil catch cans etc in the R3. Some people do... but there's no need. Hope you have fun and welcome!
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Re: New
Hey Ben - I'd recommend a visit to Ryan Rotary Performance if you're anywhere near Rugby. I saw Carl Ryan in Suffolk a few months ago and has a mini ECU map done which, amongst other things, limited the revs to 4800 until the water temperature reaches (I think) 68 degrees.
Last edited by SmuttyHutty on Sun Oct 25, 2020 7:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: New
to the club, Freddie/Ben
Essex Rotary Full Bridgeport
Seibon Carbon Fibre Bonnet, "Racing Brake" front calipers, Racing Beat (RB) ARB's F&R, RB REVI intake, full RB Stainless Steel Exhaust & Mani, 20mm Eibach spacers, KOYO Ali Rad, Lightened Fly, Tein MonoFlex coilovers & strut brace, Axial short-shifter, BHR Coils & Engine Mounts, Greddy Sump
Federal 595RS-R or Rainsport 3
Seibon Carbon Fibre Bonnet, "Racing Brake" front calipers, Racing Beat (RB) ARB's F&R, RB REVI intake, full RB Stainless Steel Exhaust & Mani, 20mm Eibach spacers, KOYO Ali Rad, Lightened Fly, Tein MonoFlex coilovers & strut brace, Axial short-shifter, BHR Coils & Engine Mounts, Greddy Sump
Federal 595RS-R or Rainsport 3
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New
Hi Ben & to the RX-8OC
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<<<<<< Please put your Location in your Profile Box, it will help us to know where you are, if required any help in the future
Please check out the EVENTS SECTION's for anything coming up soon in your area
Events Team
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Club Member from 2006 - present
Events Team from 2015 - 2024
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Administrator from 2012 - present RX-8 Owners Club UK
Tesla M3LR AB 363 AWD " Blue Beast "
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Re: New
Hi and Freddie (Ben) Did you say you wanted tips? I have some tips that may be of use.
Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:
1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).
2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).
3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.
4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it with the R3 you do have a redline that rises with the coolant temperature (as shown with the lights on the rev counter) but I still think the above advice is good as it allows time for the oil to warm up too) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.
I see you already joined the club so that saves me including my usual tip #5.
Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:
1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).
2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).
3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.
4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it with the R3 you do have a redline that rises with the coolant temperature (as shown with the lights on the rev counter) but I still think the above advice is good as it allows time for the oil to warm up too) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.
I see you already joined the club so that saves me including my usual tip #5.
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- Freddie (Tue Oct 27, 2020 2:28 pm)
'Grington.
former Club Treasurer 2010-18 (now finally retired)
Silver 192 green interior LEDS, Nordic Green hoop spoiler, roof inserts and wheels Silver Stripes (now finally retired)
former Club Treasurer 2010-18 (now finally retired)
Silver 192 green interior LEDS, Nordic Green hoop spoiler, roof inserts and wheels Silver Stripes (now finally retired)
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Re: New
Hi Freddie - thanks for joining. Hope you've got the car now and had some fun. You shouldn't need to go for a mini map with the R3 as it should already have the variable red line to stop you over-revving it when cold (though as New Duke said above, just give it 20 mins or so to warm up before trying out the full rev-range - the limiter just helps when you forget!).
Share some pics when you get a chance amongst the rain showers!
Share some pics when you get a chance amongst the rain showers!
- These users thanked the author Ainmhidh for the post:
- Freddie (Tue Oct 27, 2020 2:28 pm)
Alan (he/him)| 2010 R3 | stock apart from a couple of dings and scrapes! (Black diamond discs, yellow stuff pads, RRP MkII Coils, MSD leads...)
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Re: New
I stand corrected.Ainmhidh wrote: ↑Mon Oct 26, 2020 3:53 pmHi Freddie - thanks for joining. Hope you've got the car now and had some fun. You shouldn't need to go for a mini map with the R3 as it should already have the variable red line to stop you over-revving it when cold (though as New Duke said above, just give it 20 mins or so to warm up before trying out the full rev-range - the limiter just helps when you forget!).
Share some pics when you get a chance amongst the rain showers!
- These users thanked the author SmuttyHutty for the post:
- Ainmhidh (Tue Oct 27, 2020 9:23 am)
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Re: New
Thanks so much for your kind introduction guys....todays run home in Freddy was unlike anything ive ever encountered on 4 wheels.....amazing. His names Fredrickson Fenrir Wankle, and mines Ben LOL. Off for aircon regas, alloy refurb, and a big cleanup from tomorrow.
- These users thanked the author Freddie for the post (total 2):
- 30405 (Mon Oct 26, 2020 6:01 pm) • New Duke (Mon Oct 26, 2020 6:14 pm)
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Re: New
You may not get much mpg, but you do get plenty of smiles per hour.
Welcome to the Club Ben.
Welcome to the Club Ben.
John
Forum Admin Team
2021- // 2009 Sparkling Black R3 | Pettit Exhaust | 20mm Eibachs
2017-21 // 2010 Aurora Blue R3 | Gone, never to return, never to be forgotten.
2011-17 // 2005 Titanium Grey 231 | Gone. But Lives(d?) on.
Forum Admin Team
2021- // 2009 Sparkling Black R3 | Pettit Exhaust | 20mm Eibachs
2017-21 // 2010 Aurora Blue R3 | Gone, never to return, never to be forgotten.
2011-17 // 2005 Titanium Grey 231 | Gone. But Lives(d?) on.
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Re: New
Congratulations and welcome to the club.
Rotary History;
Sep 2005-Aug 2006 EO55 XOL VR 231 New
Oct 2014-Mar 2019 OE06 EWJ VR 231
Jan 2019-Jun 2020 T200 CAD Orange SC 231
Feb 2020-May 2023 RR54 AJR VR 231 Modified for Track
Oct 2020-Mar 2021 YA56 EUE Copper Red Nemesis
Jun 2022-Apr 2023 TN07 JHD KURO Resurrected
Jun 2023-Jan2024 OV09 BFF Sparkling Black
Sep 2005-Aug 2006 EO55 XOL VR 231 New
Oct 2014-Mar 2019 OE06 EWJ VR 231
Jan 2019-Jun 2020 T200 CAD Orange SC 231
Feb 2020-May 2023 RR54 AJR VR 231 Modified for Track
Oct 2020-Mar 2021 YA56 EUE Copper Red Nemesis
Jun 2022-Apr 2023 TN07 JHD KURO Resurrected
Jun 2023-Jan2024 OV09 BFF Sparkling Black
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Re: New
Welcome to the club!
Another R3 and in white too! Your pretty local to me, high chance of you seeing mine on the roads and vice versa.
Who are you going to be using for the wheel refurb?
Another R3 and in white too! Your pretty local to me, high chance of you seeing mine on the roads and vice versa.
Who are you going to be using for the wheel refurb?
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Re: New
Cool...we seem to be in somewhat of a minority! Am going to maxwax in Shoreham today as a pre lude to Friday and theyr going to look at the alloys too....who do you reccomend?
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Re: New
We always use "Wheel Works" in Crawley.
http://www.wheelworksuk.co.uk/
They actually remove the tyres and proper acid dip the whole wheel before any work is done and powder coat them after any repair work. None of the usual push the tyre back and wet spray etc, this way you get the whole actual wheel done and tyres refitted and balanced to suit.
They offer a few option's, like same day if you book in advance or a three day turn around drop the wheels off and go collect, crazy colours choices and so on.
Cost a little more than the usual places, but as I said above this is a proper tyre off, wheel dipped and powder coated.
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- Freddie (Tue Oct 27, 2020 2:28 pm)