Hi everybody...

[Nickp47]

I think you’re wise to avoid the first one unless the buyer can provide a compression test. The Kuro looks like it has been loved so could be a good buy if body condition is good.

[350matt]

bear in mind that you can get a good result with just using a normal piston engine compressor
you remove the 1 way valve and then watch the gauge needle 'bounces' are all the same

[RockStarPunk]

Hi everyone,

Good news!

I am now the proud owner of an RX-8 Kuro edition

I went to London and decided to take a chance on the Kuro that was on Auto Trader. The compression test results seemed legit and the car drove great to me, the first press of the accelerator

So I guess my questions now are is there any advice about things I should be doing as a new owner?

PS. The 40th anniversary edition I missed out on is now back on eBay! Buy it now £2500 happy with the Kuro, but God damn it lol.

[RockStarPunk]

Also now a full blown member of the club

[Harrizone]

RSP If anything required doing then Aston would have told you. I am fairly sure he would have imparted any issues when he sold it to you. No doubt he also carried out a full service including fluid changes, although if he didn't indicate this then it would be as well to ask him. All I would initially look at is tyre condition and the make of tyres although again I am sure Aston would not any RX8 leave withou being reasonably shod.

[RockStarPunk]

RSP If anything required doing then Aston would have told you. I am fairly sure he would have imparted any issues when he sold it to you. No doubt he also carried out a full service including fluid changes, although if he didn't indicate this then it would be as well to ask him. All I would initially look at is tyre condition and the make of tyres although again I am sure Aston would not any RX8 leave withou being reasonably shod.

Hi Harrizone.

Feel I should clarify I did not buy the car from Aston, but the car did have a recent compression test at Essex rotaries. There are one or two little issues
I have noticed such as a crack in the rear light (drivers side) and the wheels need a refurb. As for the tyres they are Toyo and have a large amount of tread on them.

I have read that a bottle of oil should always be with the car, in the boot, what is the best bet for this? Also the car has never been pre-mixed is this something i should look at starting?

Cheers,
RSP

[Harrizone]

My apology, got the wrong end of the stick, assumed it was Aston advertising the car However it might still be an idea to speak to Aston as having tested the car he will probably still have an idea of any issues he noticed at the time and any issues he may have noted.

[qwakers]

Hi all.

Just wanted to introduce myself as a newbie, I have been reading several of the posts and really enjoying all of your interactions. So I thought I would get involved.

I do not yet own an RX-8 although that isn't through lack of trying, very nearly walked away with a 40th anniversary edition this evening but was outbid at the last minute.

The hunt continues though. If anyone sees a decent one for sale please feel free to drop me a shout. Hopefully I can become a fully fledged member of the club before to long.

All the best,
RSP.

hey RSP, belated welcome...

i have to ask, is anyone else dying to reply...

dr nick.jpg

[Nickp47]

^^^ aaaahhh, I feel so much better that it’s not just me hearing that voice every time I read this thread.

[New Duke]

It is a good idea to keep a bottle of oil in the boot. Any 10w-40 semi synth will be fine for that. I keep a 1L bottle clipped into the strap you'll find inside the boot on the right hand side, along with a can of Tyre Weld in case of a flat.

Best way to keep on top of it though is just to check the oil level when you fill up with fuel, or set another regular routine that you don't break. Try to avoid overfilling as well as that can be bad. Just aim for 3/4 on the dip stick. As you've probably heard letting the oil run below Low on the dipstick can be bad news on these cars.

I think the general consensus is here is that premixing Series 1 models is a good idea. Whether it will make a difference if your car hasn't been premixed up to this point... who knows.

The FAQ section will be a good place to read as and when you have some time:
viewforum.php?f=25

Welcome to the Club

[Ainmhidh]

Good news on the Kuro, also thanks for joining - you should be access all areas now.

[Nanotrox]

Congrats RSP! hope you have a great time with your 8!

[RockStarPunk]

to the Club and the wondrous world of the rotary. The Kuro is great special edition model - so get some pictures up so we can admire your new purchase!

Many of the questions you may have will have answers in the FAQ section of the forum. If not, the search function works pretty well on here. But, if you can't find the answer to your question, just ask away

[RockStarPunk]

Hi guys, so far I am loving the car!

I have just been looking through all the paperwork and have found that in 2017 the car was fitted with Magnacor leads and NGK spark plugs.

The car has done around 10,000 miles since then, my question is, are these parts ready to be swapped out or will they last much longer?

Again thank you for answering all my questions.

[Nickp47]

I would definitely change the plugs, for the sake of circa £70 it’s well worth doing. How old are the coils and what type are they?

[RockStarPunk]

BTW the leads should be good for at least another 10k

[New Duke]

Change the spark plugs every year as part of your general service routine. A rotary specialist told me that he changes his plugs every 2000 miles. I think that's an expensive luxury (I do my own every year, 8000 miles approx) but it gives you an idea to the extent that they are a regular service item.

[RockStarPunk]

Hi everybody.

Just thought I would pop a little update up for those who are interested.

So I called Aston at ER and we had a nice chat about the car, and RX-8s in general, he let me know that he did not have any notes about the car but that is not a bad thing. As if he had found anything that was badly wrong he would have written it down. Have to say he was a top bloke and happily chatted to me about the car and what i should be doing as a new owner.

To that point, and thanks to the people who replied on here I have ordered the following:
New NGK plugs, oil filter, air filter, magnetic oil drain plug, and some pre-mix. Also some 15w40 mineral oil as this is what is currently in the car.

Having had the car a few days now I have noticed one or two things that may be normal but would appreciate any advice if they are not normal.

High revs when cold starting at around 2000, this then drops down to 800ish after a minute or so.

Gear stick seems very shaky some times when sat at lights etc in neutral.

Cheers,
RSP.

[qwakers]

cold start high revs are normal. the shaking stick could be engine mounts

[Ainmhidh]

Idle revs high and dropping when warm is normal. When you say shaky, it depends on how shaky. I'd say mine has always visibly vibrated side to side a little, more obviously so at idle revs. (I've owned it from less than 3 years old and 14k miles).

edit: or what James said - beaten to it again!

[RockStarPunk]

Thanks for the speedy replies.

Nice to knock the revs of the list of possible issues, once its warm it start 1st time and revs stay low.

It is noticeable but at the same time is not a constant rattle. It could be me over thinking it. I am out in her later so will pay some close attention and have a look.

Would the mounts have been picked up on the MOT as this was done very recently? As far as the oil goes I know that this is an almost unanswerable question but would anyone recommend moving away from mineral, and does fitting a Sohn adapter change oil recommendations?

[Ainmhidh]

Many a discussion on oil in the past - search may help, or it may just send you down a rabbit-hole you never get out of!

My basic understanding is that, because the engine burns (a bit of) the sump oil to lubricate the rotors, it should be some flavour of mineral for the better combustion / not clogging stuff. If you use a SOHN with some sort of 2T then that is the oil that gets burned and the sump oil does cooling and possibly ancillary lubrication but not getting burned any more so you can then consider a fully synth.
Mazda's originally recommended Dexalia 5/30 and some of the other popular options are technically semi-synth but there's apparently a whole other rabbit-hole of oil labelling and marketing departments going on there!

Take a video with your mobile of the gearstick wobble if it's concerning you - drop it on youtube or similar and share a link here and we can give you some variously informed opinions.

[RockStarPunk]

No engine mounts would not be picked up on mot as they are designed to still function safely even when failed.

I had the shaky gearstick at Idle and it was the mounts. I went the refurbished route but not to everyone's taste as definitely not as refined as oem ones.

(refurbished = solid fill in place of oil)

[RockStarPunk]

As usual thank you for the replies folks.

I will try and get a video of the gear stick up somewhere, I have most certainly fallen down the rabbit hole on more than one subject when it comes to this car lol. Will also get the mounts checked over just to be on the safe side.

Should I also be worried about the fact that my Kuro has no number? As in #123 of 500.

[RockStarPunk]

Have a read of the faq
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=27054