Hello all new here

SikSyco · Post by **SikSyco** » Mon Aug 17, 2020 11:37 am

Morning all bought a 2004 rx8 2 weeks ago and the same fault code p2288 injector control pressure to high and I can't find anything on the forums or the Web about this problem in a rotary. If I obtain new injectors and a fuel rail would this problem dissappear or could it be an ecu problem? The car has been sitting for a number of years on a farm as it was going to be a project that was never started.

Thanks in advance

GreySilver Beast · Post by **GreySilver Beast** » Mon Aug 17, 2020 12:24 pm

Hi &

to the RX-8OC

Please check out the EVENTS SECTION's for anything coming up soon in your area

Events Team

Post by **warpc0il** » Mon Aug 17, 2020 1:15 pm

You need to double check that code as P2288 isn't recognised by the RX-8 PCM

SikSyco · Post by **SikSyco** » Mon Aug 17, 2020 1:52 pm

I did find a thread in here that listed fault codes and it wasn't on there, guessing it's to do with the cheap obd scanner, will have to double check, thanks

Post by **Shagrington** » Mon Aug 17, 2020 7:48 pm

Hi and

SikSyco.

I don't know if these are useful to you right now, but it would be rude of me not to post this - Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read

and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:

1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).

2. Never

turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real

with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).

3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.

4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it

) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.

5. Join the club for discounts on all sorts of things (you will very quickly get the cost of membership back - and then some), loads more info in the members only sections (including access to all the workshop and technical manuals), local meets (they were all postponed but are beginning to happen again now) - if you can't find one exactly local it is a good excuse for a drive if you come to one a bit further away), a sexy keyring just for joining and more.

SikSyco · Post by **SikSyco** » Thu Aug 27, 2020 7:45 am

Awesome thank you for all that info, the car had been sitting for around 3 to 4 years prior to me getting it and I did manage to get it going last Friday for a quick run out it was a blast, now I'm upgrading the ignition parts as it takes a while to start and hoping that clears it up.

I have seen spark plugs on ebay from Jap4mance and wondering if the deal maybe too good to be true https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271001439967
Every where around here I'm looking at nearly double that if they don't have a sale on

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Nickp47 · Post by **Nickp47** » Thu Aug 27, 2020 9:46 am

Quite a few of us buy plugs from JP4MANCE with no issues, there was a bit of chat about it yesterday in another thread.

SikSyco · Post by **SikSyco** » Thu Aug 27, 2020 10:27 am

Nickp47 wrote:Quite a few of us buy plugs from JP4MANCE with no issues, there was a bit of chat about it yesterday in another thread.

Thanks just read the thread, will give them a try

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SikSyco · Post by **SikSyco** » Fri Sep 04, 2020 6:46 am

Is there anyway to find out the owner of the car before I picked it up? It has a forum club sticker on the back window

Post by **Shagrington** » Sat Sep 05, 2020 4:20 am

If you have the number plate the person who owned it may have added it to the list in the members' sections - somebody could check there for you.

SikSyco · Post by **SikSyco** » Sat Sep 05, 2020 12:58 pm

Will have to sign up and look, thabks

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SikSyco · Post by **SikSyco** » Sat Sep 05, 2020 5:52 pm

Hi all, new problem today, reinstalled the battery after a good charge done the ecu refresh by hitting the brake 20 times and left the car to run for 10 minutes and noticed a knocking from the engine while idling, any ideas?

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Post by **warpc0il** » Sat Sep 05, 2020 7:42 pm

What sort of knocking?

It could be engine mounts or a loose heatshield on the exhaust.

Does the frequency of the knock follow engine revs?

If it's more of a tapping then it could be the linkage on the SSV.

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SikSyco · Post by **SikSyco** » Sun Sep 06, 2020 11:13 am

I ne er reved the engine as too scared it could of been something worse, it was defiantly coming from the engine somewhere. It was more a knocking than a tapping,

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SikSyco · Post by **SikSyco** » Mon Sep 07, 2020 6:21 pm

Update it seems to be the air compressor after it stops blowing air down to the cat it seems.

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Post by **warpc0il** » Sat Sep 12, 2020 7:21 pm

Be interested to hear what your insurance company says when you tell them about the decat - unless you choose not to declare the mod - having posted it on a public forum

SikSyco · Post by **SikSyco** » Sat Oct 03, 2020 7:52 pm

That's the exhaust done, now just brake pads and another 8 will be back on the road

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SikSyco · Post by **SikSyco** » Mon Oct 05, 2020 7:05 pm

Anyone have any opinions on brake pads will just be for road use at the moment and has any one tried the brake caliper rebuild kits from ebay?

Look at this on eBay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332858428352

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Post by **Ollie** » Mon Oct 05, 2020 7:14 pm

Frentech rebuild kits are good quality from what I hear. I was actually going to use one myself whilst rebuilding my spare callipers.

Post by **warpc0il** » Mon Oct 05, 2020 7:39 pm

I can recommend these guys viewtopic.php?f=17&t=79280

SikSyco · Post by **SikSyco** » Tue Oct 20, 2020 6:25 pm

Looking over cooling mods would it be more bebificial to go with a fan controller kit which splices into a line or change the the thermostat for the mishimoto one?

Thanks

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ChrisHolmes · Post by **ChrisHolmes** » Tue Oct 20, 2020 10:11 pm

Joining the club will give you access to all the various FAQs and DIY How To Do notes and all the technical manuals and members car projects. Plus discounts from numerous suppliers so you can soon save the cost of your subscription.

SikSyco · Post by **SikSyco** » Mon Dec 21, 2020 6:38 pm

The bar that runs from wheel arch to wheel arch under the bonnet, the one the batters box sits on and the air box, is this structural? Can it be replaced? Changing the radiator today and while removing the undertray a bolt came out with part of this bar on it after inspecting it looks pretty rusty.

ChrisHolmes · Post by **ChrisHolmes** » Mon Dec 21, 2020 6:41 pm

Yes it’s structural and people have sourced them from donor cars and fitted to replace rotted ones.

SikSyco · Post by **SikSyco** » Tue Dec 22, 2020 12:39 pm

Thanks for your input

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