Looking to buy an RX8 - Never owned one before

[New Duke]

I'd agree with kopite72. Few people (even some specialists) know all of the updates that were made to the R3. There were loads.

Whatever model you go for, factor in about £500 out of your budget for immediate parts. Even cars sold in 'mint' condition almost always need new ignition, fluids and brake parts etc.

Say you buy a decent condition R3 and do a bit of preventative maintenance that's your £7k budget spent immediately. So it's not really a massive budget, it's just about the right budget if you wanted an R3.

That money does go further with the older S1 model RX8 if you prefer how it looks. But I'm fairly convinced they cost a similar amount over the long haul.

[SprintRX8]

Already stated.

Buy the best you can.
With your budget that’s should be easy.

Whittle it down to possible viewings.

Then have it Fully inspected with a compression test by a Rotary Specialist.
Examples
Ryan Rotary.
Rotary Revs.
Luke Murdock (Mobile Rotary Guru).

[Scartlead]

I'm not local at all N.I, but have been toying about selling mine. Still not sure to be honest. If you're looking for a S1 that really stands out, maybe an option for you. Food for thought.

[nightfire10]

If you're looking for a S1 that really stands out!
Shame T200CAD is no longer alive

Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

[V8 Power]

I think I would buy the most perfect black PZ I could find and spend the rest making it perfect.

[goodeggbob]

We have a meet in ellesmere where there will be a selection of mk1 and mk2 on friday 10th of july at 7pm,thats not far for you to come and see a few,rob. See topic Shropshire and west midlands meet on here.

[GraemeC]

I think I would buy the most perfect black PZ I could find and spend the rest making it perfect.

Damn good advice - that,s exactly what I tried to do, very happy so far!

[V8 Power]

Wow!

[*thomas*]

That is one pretty car !

[justandy]

Hey guys, well I finally treated myself to a 40th Anniversary erosion yesterday, I’m really pleased with it. 48,000 miles - 2008 and only 1 owner, £4250. Just want to get it really cleaned up and treated, someone to clean the velour seats as they really need it and just a general good clean and make it smell nice and fresh (make it mine) I sell car bulbs so can put some of our little fancy LEDS in the sidelights and indicator etc. Need to sort out my favourite CDs to put in the interchanger as in recent years been used to putting music onto a USB stick.

Any ideas from anyone of things I can do to upgrade, improve things to make it more personal etc please?

Cheers,
Andy

[98of400]

Just want to get it really cleaned up and treated, someone to clean the velour seats as they really need it

Cheers,
Andy

You want proper Alcantara cleaner for the seats, and follow the jnstructions (about being gentle with it) or the pile will get damaged. I think this is the one I bought for mine:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112690590963

[nightfire10]

Welcome along, did you have a compression test and what were the results? And owch bit expensive but if its mint enjoy it

Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

[Shagrington]

Congratulations ... there are a lot of things you might do to personalise it, are you looking at aesthetics or something else though?

Now you have the car I guess it's time ... Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:

1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).

2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).

3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.

4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it ) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.

5. Join the club for discounts on all sorts of things (you will very quickly get the cost of membership back - and then some), loads more info in the members only sections (including access to all the workshop and technical manuals), local meets (when we start them again, they're currently all postponed or altered for obvious reasons - if you can't find one exactly local it is a good excuse for a drive if you come to one a bit further away), a sexy keyring just for joining and more.

[justandy]

Welcome along, did you have a compression test and what were the results? And owch bit expensive but if its mint enjoy it

Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

Thanks for your reply, yeah it looks like it last had a compression test done in a December, not really sure what I am looking at on it to be honest with you lol, just lots of numbers on it? How often is this something you would get done?

[justandy]

Congratulations ... there are a lot of things you might do to personalise it, are you looking at aesthetics or something else though?

Now you have the car I guess it's time ... Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:

1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).

2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).

3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.

4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it ) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.

5. Join the club for discounts on all sorts of things (you will very quickly get the cost of membership back - and then some), loads more info in the members only sections (including access to all the workshop and technical manuals), local meets (when we start them again, they're currently all postponed or altered for obvious reasons - if you can't find one exactly local it is a good excuse for a drive if you come to one a bit further away), a sexy keyring just for joining and more.

Thanks for your reply and I will definitely take your comments on board. With regards to doing it up, anything really. Just want to make it more personal to me, get it cleaned up lovely as well and the wheels done too, so any suggestions there at all you may have? Also with regards to the annual service, does that have to be done by a rotary specialist I presume and do I have to have an annual compression test? If so, I presume this would be done the same time?

Cheers, Andy

[nightfire10]

Welcome along, did you have a compression test and what were the results? And owch bit expensive but if its mint enjoy it

Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

Thanks for your reply, yeah it looks like it last had a compression test done in a December, not really sure what I am looking at on it to be honest with you lol, just lots of numbers on it? How often is this something you would get done?

Post it up and someone will let you know how good it is

Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

[nightfire10]

Once you know what the numbers mean you won't need one for a while

Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

[justandy]

.... Also with regards to the annual service, does that have to be done by a rotary specialist I presume and do I have to have an annual compression test? If so, I presume this would be done the same time?

A rotary specialist would be the ideal for services, but not compulsory - any decent garage who can do an oil and filter change and spark plugs every couple of years. A lot of people do their own servicing of course.
If you want to monitor compression to see if it is falling (or rising) you could get one done very year .. or not (I've never had mine tested at all).

[warpc0il]

You could get it tested every year but what would you do with the information?

Assuming that the car was starting and running fine then it's stuff you don't need to know and, while it may give you some peace-of-mind, it could just as easily add to rotary paranoia.

[Scartlead]

What Dave said Maybe an initial test is worth getting but beyond that I wouldn't worry. Just drive it and enjoy

[Mog1]

Justandy, all I can say is that the Golf and Leon you spoke about are FWD, the RX-8 is RWD. That was my justification in 2007 when I bought my first one. I have a 68 plate Golf GTD as a company car. Quick but boring

[justandy]

Hi guys, I am loving my Rx8, it’s fab booked in for alloy refurb and complete valet (Inside and out) next week to make it my own and nice and clean. Does anyone know somewhere that will do a steering wheel covering at all? I am in the West Midlands?

Cheers,

Andy

[njkmr]

Think a place called Royal steering wheels do em.

[justandy]

Yep, Royal Steering Wheels will do a complete refurb with leather or alcantara (or a mix of both) and will add thumb grips, do a flat bottom etc all to your own specifications and for a reasonable price. It takes them a couple of weeks so having a spare wheel you can send them is easiest or they may be able to source one and either send it to you and you send yours in return or take the car to them and they will fit it (I think they're in Milton Keynes).
They are good - it's one of my favourite mods.