New 8 owner and having some issues

[Cscameron]

Hi all

Hope I’m posting this in the right place - apologies if not. I just want a bit of advice as to what the problem I’m having is.

I’ve had my RX8 for about 3 weeks - 2005 192 75k miles. Engine was rebuilt a couple of years ago but I haven’t got much history apart from that. I had a new clutch fitted after a few days and an oil change. It has an exhaust leak but the guy that sorted the clutch said it’s just a gasket so won’t cause any problems apart from the exhaust smell. Starts and runs great and I make sure I redline it every couple of days and don’t switch the engine off when it’s cold.

So the issue I’m having happened on my way home from work. Was fine for most of the way back then I slowed for a roundabout and the engine cut out. I had the CEL, battery light and coolant light come on. I turned off the ignition then started it straight up and it started no problem, but the CEL stayed on. The same thing happened at the next 2 roundabouts. Cut out then started fine. I was only 1/2 a mile away from home when it happened the first time and as everything started fine decided to get home.

Will go and check the coolant level once the engines cooled down but as it was fine 2 1/2 weeks ago I doubt it will be low.

Has anyone got any suggestions as to what the problem could be so I don’t have to spend a fortune on diagnostics if it’s possibly something simple.

Thanks for your help

[GreySilver Beast]

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[Calcifur83]

Hi and welcome. Someone on here will be along shortly to give you some guidance. It's a great community to be part of, loads of helpful guys and gals.

Sadly I am not one of them as I haven't got a clue what could be causing issue. I have read that the float on the coolant tank can take on water and cause it to sink and bring up the coolant check light even though the level is fine, that might be worth a look. As for the cutting out, afraid I don't know. Unless maybe a bad coil pack or plug?

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[New Duke]

Before getting into troubleshooting:

Was it a private sale or from a car trader? Unless it was a private sale might be best to take it back to where you bought it from and have them sort it as is your right.

And welcome to the forum!

[Ollie]

For starters, do you have a code reader to read what the CEL is? This would be the best troubleshooting starting point.

[Ainmhidh]

Hi - I suspect the quickest and cheapest way to get started is to get hold of an OBD2 adapter and read the codes. Should be possible with a free phone app and a bluetooth OBD2 adapter (< £20) the codes for the CEL should point you in a direction, or post 'em up here and the great minds will be unable to refrain from speculating wildly helping.

[Cscameron]

It was a private sale and I think a bit of a bargain. Body is spot on - tiny patch of rust on OSR arch and I knew she’d need a bit of TLC. Haven’t got an OBD reader but will be borrowing one from work tomorrow (I work in car sales so there’s always one floating around just in case but we don’t have a workshop so can’t get them to look her over) Will post any codes on here tomorrow

[PaulAV]

Imagine that since it's had a clutch swap, the battery may have been disconnected, so the ecu will of lost its fuel trims, these can take a little while to learn under normal driving, but if you disconnect the battery when the car is cold, then reconnect it, start the car and allow to idle for about 20-30 minutes without using the accelerator, this will allow the ecu to relearn its trims. But as already mentioned you ideally want to read any codes, a blue tooth obd dongle and an app, like torque will do the job.

[350matt]

If you have a check engine light then invest £40 in a scan tool so you can plug in and read the code
from your description I'd say its possibly a ESS ( would be crankshaft in a normal engine) sensor
so try cleaning it 1st as they accumulate all sorts of rubbish
then do a sensor reset by turning on the ignition but do not start the engine
then tap the brake pedal 20 times with about 1 seconds between each push

you should see the oil pressure gauge sweep from right to left

[Cscameron]

That’s great thank you I’ll grab an OBD tomorrow but will give the ESS and reset a go tonight and hope it does the trick.

Will try leaving her to idle afterwards to see if that helps as well.

[warpc0il]

Start by resetting the PCM, following these instructions
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=34703

If that doesn't sort is then it may be that the oil has been overfilled (very easy to get wrong) and contaminated the MAF
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=36391
This would explain both behaviour and the CEL.

That exhaust leak needs to be fixed ASAP as it will affect how the car runs and it could also set fire to the underside.

The coolant light is most likely the float in the tank sinking
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=70464
check the level with a stick. It should be half-way-up when cold.

[Shagrington]

Hi and Cscameron.

Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:

1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).

2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).

3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.

4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it ) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.

5. Join the club for discounts on all sorts of things (you will very quickly get the cost of membership back - and then some), loads more info in the members only sections (including access to all the workshop and technical manuals), local meets (when we start them again, they're currently all postponed for obvious reasons - if you can't find one exactly local it is a good excuse for a drive if you come to one a bit further away), a sexy keyring just for joining and more.