Hello from me & Kuro #148
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Hello from me & Kuro #148
Hi folks,
Just wanted to post a quick intro, as I've been looking around for a long time but never joined or posted, so thought now would be a good time after picking up my 2007 Kuro on Sunday.
I've always liked the RX8, ever since my Dad had a nearly new 192 back in 2006. A couple of years ago, an opportunity came up to purchase a winning blue 231 very cheaply (£350) with no MOT as a "fun car". Although I got it through an MOT after a little work, unfortunately it was in need of too much to make it "right" (rust, engine rebuild, bodywork, steering rack, rust...), so after enjoying it for around 6 months, I decided to move it on.
I never felt like I experienced the RX8 properly, and recently I had decided to change the Toyota Celica T Sport I have been using as the "fun car" for the past 3 years, so I decided to have a little look around for another RX8, albeit a much tidier example with a view to keeping it long term. After a littler searching, I found a very clean looking example of a Kuro online, and after a few phone calls I put a deposit on it.
I wasn't expecting much for £1500, but was pleasantly surprised when I saw the car how clean it was. There didn't appear to be rust in the usual places, and although it wasn't perfect, it was very tidy and it's previous 2 owners had clearly taken care of it (4 matching Toyo Proxies and a stack of paperwork and receipts was a decent sign that it's been looked after). I was happy, paid my money and took it away.
The car isn't without its fault's, which I fully expected at this price point, namely that it's slow to fire up, which is worse when it's cold (which I put down to a combo of an ageing battery and poor ignition system as there are receipts for no-name coils in the history from a couple of years back), there's a shunting through the car when coming on and off the throttle (which I presume is bad engine mounts as there is some vibration when the car is warm at idle too), there's a cheap aftermarket CAT fitted, which will have to go at some point, the drivers heated seat doesn't work, and the wheels need a refurb (as they all do!). However, having had the car on the ramp at work, there is very little rust underneath, and overall I'm really happy with it and pleased to be back behind the wheel of an RX8!
Sorry for going on a bit, but I look forward to being part of the community and hopefully attending some meets etc. in the future. I would post a couple of picture's, but not sure how yet, so I'll leave that to another time!
Craig.
Just wanted to post a quick intro, as I've been looking around for a long time but never joined or posted, so thought now would be a good time after picking up my 2007 Kuro on Sunday.
I've always liked the RX8, ever since my Dad had a nearly new 192 back in 2006. A couple of years ago, an opportunity came up to purchase a winning blue 231 very cheaply (£350) with no MOT as a "fun car". Although I got it through an MOT after a little work, unfortunately it was in need of too much to make it "right" (rust, engine rebuild, bodywork, steering rack, rust...), so after enjoying it for around 6 months, I decided to move it on.
I never felt like I experienced the RX8 properly, and recently I had decided to change the Toyota Celica T Sport I have been using as the "fun car" for the past 3 years, so I decided to have a little look around for another RX8, albeit a much tidier example with a view to keeping it long term. After a littler searching, I found a very clean looking example of a Kuro online, and after a few phone calls I put a deposit on it.
I wasn't expecting much for £1500, but was pleasantly surprised when I saw the car how clean it was. There didn't appear to be rust in the usual places, and although it wasn't perfect, it was very tidy and it's previous 2 owners had clearly taken care of it (4 matching Toyo Proxies and a stack of paperwork and receipts was a decent sign that it's been looked after). I was happy, paid my money and took it away.
The car isn't without its fault's, which I fully expected at this price point, namely that it's slow to fire up, which is worse when it's cold (which I put down to a combo of an ageing battery and poor ignition system as there are receipts for no-name coils in the history from a couple of years back), there's a shunting through the car when coming on and off the throttle (which I presume is bad engine mounts as there is some vibration when the car is warm at idle too), there's a cheap aftermarket CAT fitted, which will have to go at some point, the drivers heated seat doesn't work, and the wheels need a refurb (as they all do!). However, having had the car on the ramp at work, there is very little rust underneath, and overall I'm really happy with it and pleased to be back behind the wheel of an RX8!
Sorry for going on a bit, but I look forward to being part of the community and hopefully attending some meets etc. in the future. I would post a couple of picture's, but not sure how yet, so I'll leave that to another time!
Craig.
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- willberry70 (Fri Feb 14, 2020 5:31 pm)
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Re: Hello from me & Kuro #148
Hi and Craig010. Sounds good, but get the no-name coils swapped out for the real thing or better (you'll find where to get them if you read around here or ask) asap. A Varta E23 battery is an ideal replacement battery too. The cheap CAT won't last long, so yes get a good one or get a decat and save the cheap one for MOTs.
Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:
1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).
2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).
3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.
4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it ) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.
5. Join the club for discounts on all sorts of things (you will very quickly get the cost of membership back - and then some), loads more info in the members only sections (including access to all the workshop and technical manuals), local meets (if you can't find one exactly local it is a good excuse for a drive if you come to one a bit further away), a sexy keyring just for joining and more.
Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:
1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).
2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).
3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.
4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it ) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.
5. Join the club for discounts on all sorts of things (you will very quickly get the cost of membership back - and then some), loads more info in the members only sections (including access to all the workshop and technical manuals), local meets (if you can't find one exactly local it is a good excuse for a drive if you come to one a bit further away), a sexy keyring just for joining and more.
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- Craig010 (Thu Feb 13, 2020 10:21 am)
'Grington.
former Club Treasurer 2010-18 (now finally retired)
Silver 192 green interior LEDS, Nordic Green hoop spoiler, roof inserts and wheels Silver Stripes (now finally retired)
former Club Treasurer 2010-18 (now finally retired)
Silver 192 green interior LEDS, Nordic Green hoop spoiler, roof inserts and wheels Silver Stripes (now finally retired)
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Re: Hello from me & Kuro #148
Do the ignition.. coils, leads, plugs and replace the cat NOW.. don't allow things to degenerate further, good luck with her
EDIT.. Brian beat me to it
EDIT.. Brian beat me to it
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- willberry70 (Fri Feb 14, 2020 5:33 pm)
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Re: Hello from me & Kuro #148
Thanks both for the welcome.
Luckily I haven't gone into this blindly, so I'm pretty clued up on how to keep her running well. Step one will be an oil and filter, as even though it's just been done, it looks like 5w30 fully synth was used, which is a big no-no as I understand it, so some 10w40 semi will be going in.
I've got my eye on the RRP ignition coils and leads kit, with some fresh plugs and a fresh battery for next month. Unsure on whether to go de-cat or sports cat (200 cel) yet though, so I'll have to have a think about that one...
Luckily I haven't gone into this blindly, so I'm pretty clued up on how to keep her running well. Step one will be an oil and filter, as even though it's just been done, it looks like 5w30 fully synth was used, which is a big no-no as I understand it, so some 10w40 semi will be going in.
I've got my eye on the RRP ignition coils and leads kit, with some fresh plugs and a fresh battery for next month. Unsure on whether to go de-cat or sports cat (200 cel) yet though, so I'll have to have a think about that one...
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- Ryan Rotary Performance (Thu Feb 13, 2020 11:51 am) • acegeezer (Thu Feb 13, 2020 1:54 pm)
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Re: Hello from me & Kuro #148
Welcome to the club you picked a nice model. As others have said, the sooner you can get those bits sorted the better the life of your engine. Post up some pics of you get a chance.
Galaxy Grey PZ number 24.
Large street port. Lots of flames, lots of smiles.
Large street port. Lots of flames, lots of smiles.
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Re: Hello from me & Kuro #148
Welcome, sounds like you have found a decent one to enjoy.
Your in the right place if you need any advice.
Your in the right place if you need any advice.
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Hello from me & Kuro #148
Hi Craig & to the RX-8OC
Please check out the EVENTS SECTION's for anything coming up soon in your area
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Please check out the EVENTS SECTION's for anything coming up soon in your area
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Re: Hello from me & Kuro #148
I have the Ryan rotary performance coils and thier 200 cell cat, I would whole heartily recomend them, you could bash out your cheap killer cat as an interim precaution as the cheapo cats can't handle the heat, clog up and cause issues (including engine failure) I've got about 18,000 on Ryan rotary coils and about 12,000 on thier cat
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- Craig010 (Thu Feb 13, 2020 5:42 pm)
Led side lights, purple Led interior & puddle lights, pz grills, Ryan rotary performance coils, sump, engine mounts & sohn, HME engine rebuild at 50k, RRP exhaust & high flow cat, racing beat revi intake including scoop, quick shifter, alloy filler cap, pz alloys, suspension, mazdaspeed spoiler, japspeed toe arms & hardrace camber arms, RRP custom remap
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Re: Hello from me & Kuro #148
Thanks all for the welcomes. I've now joined up to the club officially too
I'm looking forward to getting back to where she should be in terms of ignition and general running. Hopefully we'll have some decent weather soon so I can start doing a few bit and bobs.
And as I've now figured out how, here are a couple of picture's...
I'm looking forward to getting back to where she should be in terms of ignition and general running. Hopefully we'll have some decent weather soon so I can start doing a few bit and bobs.
And as I've now figured out how, here are a couple of picture's...
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- willberry70 (Fri Feb 14, 2020 5:33 pm)
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Re: Hello from me & Kuro #148
Ah such a lovely sparkling black sight.
I'm #400 and if you want it to last listen to the guys posting above
Mine's fairly stock but I dropped in new RRP mkII coils and it really picked it up
I'm #400 and if you want it to last listen to the guys posting above
Mine's fairly stock but I dropped in new RRP mkII coils and it really picked it up
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- Craig010 (Fri Feb 14, 2020 11:45 pm)
Sparkling Black Kuro SN# 400/500. PZ suspension, Mini-mapped, EBC Red Stuff fronts disks and pads, Custom Oil Lines, Varta E27 battery. Blacked alloys, K&C air filter, RRP Mk2 Coils and MSD Leads, Krown rustproofed.
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Re: Hello from me & Kuro #148
You dropped the coils in?
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- willberry70 (Sat Feb 15, 2020 1:20 pm)
Rob
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Re: Hello from me & Kuro #148
I was just thinking that Rob, think he means he dropped the box into Lukes hands. Hahaha, sorry Will, love your really.
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- goodeggbob (Fri Feb 14, 2020 11:17 pm) • willberry70 (Sat Feb 15, 2020 1:20 pm)
Led side lights, purple Led interior & puddle lights, pz grills, Ryan rotary performance coils, sump, engine mounts & sohn, HME engine rebuild at 50k, RRP exhaust & high flow cat, racing beat revi intake including scoop, quick shifter, alloy filler cap, pz alloys, suspension, mazdaspeed spoiler, japspeed toe arms & hardrace camber arms, RRP custom remap
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Re: Hello from me & Kuro #148
I'm hoping the RRP coils will liven up the lower end of the rev range and make it a bit more responsive as she's a bit flat down there ATM.
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Re: Hello from me & Kuro #148
Below 3,000 revs the engine isn't that lively, you effectively need twice the revs of a conventional engine, 4-7 thousand is where the magic happens, if your coils aren't the best you will notice better performance, might want to make sure everything is at its best, eccentric shaft sensor clean, maf sensor clean, airfilter clean and decent leads and spark plugs.
Led side lights, purple Led interior & puddle lights, pz grills, Ryan rotary performance coils, sump, engine mounts & sohn, HME engine rebuild at 50k, RRP exhaust & high flow cat, racing beat revi intake including scoop, quick shifter, alloy filler cap, pz alloys, suspension, mazdaspeed spoiler, japspeed toe arms & hardrace camber arms, RRP custom remap
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Re: Hello from me & Kuro #148
I understand that you need to spin these engines up as peak torque is so high in the rev range - I'm just comparing it to my previous 231 which wasn't in the best of health, but didn't seem as flat as this one does.
I'm sure things will improve once the ign. system is renewed/upgraded and I've gone through the car properly (new air filter, clean the MAF etc.). It's already more responsive then when I picked it up 500 miles ago (in only 5 days!!) by just being used I think.
I'm sure things will improve once the ign. system is renewed/upgraded and I've gone through the car properly (new air filter, clean the MAF etc.). It's already more responsive then when I picked it up 500 miles ago (in only 5 days!!) by just being used I think.
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- willberry70 (Sat Feb 15, 2020 1:22 pm)
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Re: Hello from me & Kuro #148
Ahh, you got so many Kuros I didn't think you'd remember mine
It only took (almost entirely you) a couple of hours...maybe three. Thanks for the tea by the way
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- goodeggbob (Sat Feb 15, 2020 3:20 pm)
Sparkling Black Kuro SN# 400/500. PZ suspension, Mini-mapped, EBC Red Stuff fronts disks and pads, Custom Oil Lines, Varta E27 battery. Blacked alloys, K&C air filter, RRP Mk2 Coils and MSD Leads, Krown rustproofed.
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Re: Hello from me & Kuro #148
I think both yourself and Rob are well aware of my mechanical aptitude.
Sparkling Black Kuro SN# 400/500. PZ suspension, Mini-mapped, EBC Red Stuff fronts disks and pads, Custom Oil Lines, Varta E27 battery. Blacked alloys, K&C air filter, RRP Mk2 Coils and MSD Leads, Krown rustproofed.
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Re: Hello from me & Kuro #148
Will, you love the car, that's all that matters, if we can help you to love it actually on the road I'm sure both me and Rob are happy to help
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- willberry70 (Sat Feb 15, 2020 1:26 pm) • goodeggbob (Sat Feb 15, 2020 3:21 pm)
Led side lights, purple Led interior & puddle lights, pz grills, Ryan rotary performance coils, sump, engine mounts & sohn, HME engine rebuild at 50k, RRP exhaust & high flow cat, racing beat revi intake including scoop, quick shifter, alloy filler cap, pz alloys, suspension, mazdaspeed spoiler, japspeed toe arms & hardrace camber arms, RRP custom remap
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Re: Hello from me & Kuro #148
Yeah, mine went from being willing to pick up from 3.5k with coils on the way out, to picking up from 2.5k with the RRP mk2s (thanks to goodeggrob ). Obvs 3.5 is still better etc. Improved mpg by 10% too, but still dreadful .Craig010 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 15, 2020 12:54 amI understand that you need to spin these engines up as peak torque is so high in the rev range - I'm just comparing it to my previous 231 which wasn't in the best of health, but didn't seem as flat as this one does.
I'm sure things will improve once the ign. system is renewed/upgraded and I've gone through the car properly (new air filter, clean the MAF etc.). It's already more responsive then when I picked it up 500 miles ago (in only 5 days!!) by just being used I think.
Sparkling Black Kuro SN# 400/500. PZ suspension, Mini-mapped, EBC Red Stuff fronts disks and pads, Custom Oil Lines, Varta E27 battery. Blacked alloys, K&C air filter, RRP Mk2 Coils and MSD Leads, Krown rustproofed.
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Re: Hello from me & Kuro #148
That's good to hear, and I'll definitely be investing in a set in March.willberry70 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 15, 2020 1:25 pmYeah, mine went from being willing to pick up from 3.5k with coils on the way out, to picking up from 2.5k with the RRP mk2s (thanks to goodeggrob ). Obvs 3.5 is still better etc. Improved mpg by 10% too, but still dreadful .
I actually changed the battery in the car today, and afterwards she started up much quicker and began running much better, not as lumpy, and the hesitation on the throttle / jerkiness (which I thought was dead engine mounts) has reduced too! Must have needed a PCM reset I thought, so then I did the 20 brake stomp just to be sure, and she's smoothed out a bit more again! I can't believe how much difference a reset has made. I know the throttle body was replaced just before I bought the car, so imagine it's something to do with that - it was likely never reset after.
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