Content new RX8 Owner

[guykjw]

Hello All! Guy here.

Proud owner of an 06 192 RX8 Sunlight Silver. Brought with a fresh engine rebuild. I've just finished my 1000 mile run-in and had it compression tested and an oil change and oh boy am I enjoying it now

Looking forward to getting stuck into the forums.

Not sure if I should mention here or in General discussion but the clutch becomes a different beast when it's been stuck in traffic for a while. Biting point moves right up and both my partner and I find it quite unpredictable to drive at this point. I've done some proper digging around on these forums and would I be right in thinking being an early 2006 model, it is the clutch slave cylinder? And that replacing this and bleeding the system will solve this?

Also, the car had the dreaded 10.0.1 firmware. I bought myself a 9.67 Head Unit and it's now fitted. Firmware version checked and confirmed. I've got a bluetooth adapter in the back which is receiving power as my phone can connect to it no problem but I cannot get the stereo into EX Mode. Neither holding or double pressing the CD button or the Tape/MD button will work. I've done a tonne of reading on this and no joy. Am I missing something?

Let me know if I should post these questions in General

[warpc0il]

the clutch becomes a different beast when it's been stuck in traffic for a while. Biting point moves right up and both my partner and I find it quite unpredictable to drive at this point. I've done some proper digging around on these forums and would I be right in thinking being an early 2006 model, it is the clutch slave cylinder? And that replacing this and bleeding the system will solve this?

The Slave cylinder issue applies to cars with VINs lower than JM1 FE**** ** 206481 (produced before May 1, 2006), so yours might be within that.

However the symptoms of the problem are different. With the original slave cylinder, when the powertrain gets really hot the bite point moves down until eventually you can't get the clutch fully disengaged, even with the pedal on the floor.

There's something else going on with your clutch.

I suspect that, even if the brake fluid had been changed (I should be every 2-3 years) then the fluid in the clutch line hasn't.
Most garages and dealers "forget" this, as it's a lot more messing about and most owners wouldn't know and can't check.

[GreySilver Beast]

Hi Guy & to the RX-8OC

<<<<<< Please put your Location in your Profile Box, it will help us to know where you are, if required any help in the future

<<<<<< Please change your colour choice to Sunlight Silver Metallic

Please check out the EVENTS SECTION's for anything coming up soon in your area

Events Team

[leetrx8]

The OEM clutch line can also expand when it gets hot, swapping this for a SS one fixed the issue I had with my old RX8's clutch.

[Shagrington]

Hi and guykjw. Looks good (and a silver 192 - best combination of course ). I'll leave others who know about clutches and stereos etc to answer your immediate questions ... and if that doesn't happen here then yes ask again in the 'RX-8 Discussion' section.

Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:

1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).

2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).

3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.

4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it ) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.

5. Join the club for discounts on all sorts of things (you will very quickly get the cost of membership back - and then some), loads more info in the members only sections (including access to all the workshop and technical manuals), local meets (or if you can't find one exactly local it is a good excuse for a drive if you come to one a bit further away), a sexy keyring just for joining and more.

[guykjw]

the clutch becomes a different beast when it's been stuck in traffic for a while. Biting point moves right up and both my partner and I find it quite unpredictable to drive at this point. I've done some proper digging around on these forums and would I be right in thinking being an early 2006 model, it is the clutch slave cylinder? And that replacing this and bleeding the system will solve this?

The Slave cylinder issue applies to cars with VINs lower than JM1 FE**** ** 206481 (produced before May 1, 2006), so yours might be within that.

However the symptoms of the problem are different. With the original slave cylinder, when the powertrain gets really hot the bite point moves down until eventually you can't get the clutch fully disengaged, even with the pedal on the floor.

There's something else going on with your clutch.

I suspect that, even if the brake fluid had been changed (I should be every 2-3 years) then the fluid in the clutch line hasn't.
Most garages and dealers "forget" this, as it's a lot more messing about and most owners wouldn't know and can't check.

Ah okay. So getting the clutch line fluid changed would be the first port-of-call then.

I'll check my VIN number too and if I'm in the affected range then I'll get a new slave cylinder put in as it doesn't look like an expensive part and I'm sure it won't harm to 'future-proof' it.

Thank you!

[guykjw]

The OEM clutch line can also expand when it gets hot, swapping this for a SS one fixed the issue I had with my old RX8's clutch.

This makes sense! If I'm going to get the system bled it makes sense to replace the lines too. Thanks!

[guykjw]

Hi and guykjw. Looks good (and a silver 192 - best combination of course ). I'll leave others who know about clutches and stereos etc to answer your immediate questions ... and if that doesn't happen here then yes ask again in the 'RX-8 Discussion' section.

Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:

1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).

2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).

3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.

4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it ) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.

5. Join the club for discounts on all sorts of things (you will very quickly get the cost of membership back - and then some), loads more info in the members only sections (including access to all the workshop and technical manuals), local meets (or if you can't find one exactly local it is a good excuse for a drive if you come to one a bit further away), a sexy keyring just for joining and more.

Thanks for the warm welcome and the info I bought the car from Warren Rotaries so the guys there got me fairly clued up on the basics. I'd probably have flooded the thing already otherwise!