Numberplate Relocation
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Numberplate Relocation
Moderator - moved here as first post.
Hi all,
I'm new hear so please bear with me! I bought my 8 2 days ago and it's in pretty good condition all round. Used the buying guide on this forum which was very helpful. The only downside is that my insurance runs out in Oct/Nov this year and since i'm 18 in June, I won't be able to get insurance until I finish my first year and get my NCD. Obviously, I wasn't going to buy one until my insurance was up and I could sell my current car (Vauxhall Meriva! ) but this one was local, the 231 model, the colour I wanted (Strato blue) and had FSH and only ever went to the local Mazda dealership, even for MOT's! This coupled with the fact that it had only done 47,000 miles had me hooked after the test drive. The wheels are corroded quite bad though, but for £700 I really think I've got a bargain here! Surely the 4 new Bridgestone tyres are worth that!
I am looking to do some slight modifications, nothing too mad but the first on my list would be to relocate the plate to the side. I've had a look at other topics and was debating whether to use a sticker or plate. Also, Would this be legal or would I have to remove it and refit for MOT's?
Once again, I am still finding my feet with this new culture, but hopefully with some help, I will not make any mistakes!
Cheers,
Jeags
Hi all,
I'm new hear so please bear with me! I bought my 8 2 days ago and it's in pretty good condition all round. Used the buying guide on this forum which was very helpful. The only downside is that my insurance runs out in Oct/Nov this year and since i'm 18 in June, I won't be able to get insurance until I finish my first year and get my NCD. Obviously, I wasn't going to buy one until my insurance was up and I could sell my current car (Vauxhall Meriva! ) but this one was local, the 231 model, the colour I wanted (Strato blue) and had FSH and only ever went to the local Mazda dealership, even for MOT's! This coupled with the fact that it had only done 47,000 miles had me hooked after the test drive. The wheels are corroded quite bad though, but for £700 I really think I've got a bargain here! Surely the 4 new Bridgestone tyres are worth that!
I am looking to do some slight modifications, nothing too mad but the first on my list would be to relocate the plate to the side. I've had a look at other topics and was debating whether to use a sticker or plate. Also, Would this be legal or would I have to remove it and refit for MOT's?
Once again, I am still finding my feet with this new culture, but hopefully with some help, I will not make any mistakes!
Cheers,
Jeags
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
Technically a number plate has to conform to BS AU 145d which covers size, the material its made from and it should show the plate makers details etc
A stick on plate does not comply but owners do use them and get away with it although some MOT testers will fail it so its down to how lucky you are, a plate can be lowered from where it normally is or moved to the side.
Detail is on here use search.
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
Officially, as above, you need to have a physical plastic plate, of regulation size fitted to the 'most forward part of the vehicle' (or however they phrase it) which the left side is not.
That said, I do know of a fair number of people who have stick on plates, to the side or whatever, and they are still passed at normal (i.e. not friendly) MOT testers.
That said, I do know of a fair number of people who have stick on plates, to the side or whatever, and they are still passed at normal (i.e. not friendly) MOT testers.
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
My last plate was a wrap on over the nose and it was commented on by the police when I was pulled over last year, nothing came of it though I decided to get the smallest legit plate possible.
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
I went for a slightly modified plate fixed on 2 steel brackets so it sits inside the bumper.
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Rotary FX fender grills, Japspeed stainless exhaust, Cosworth Air filter, Kinetix slotted & dimpled discs, EBC Red stuff pads, Ryan Rotary MK11 coils, Magnecor leads, Stainless front & rear grills, HID main beams, LED tail lights, front side lights/front fogs.
Rotary FX fender grills, Japspeed stainless exhaust, Cosworth Air filter, Kinetix slotted & dimpled discs, EBC Red stuff pads, Ryan Rotary MK11 coils, Magnecor leads, Stainless front & rear grills, HID main beams, LED tail lights, front side lights/front fogs.
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
Right, OK plenty to chew on there. I'll probably go for the physical plastic plate either off center or below the front grille.
Cheers,
Jeags
Cheers,
Jeags
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Numberplate Relocation
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
I have an admittedly smaller-than-legal front plate, but mounted it between the lower opening which is used for cooling and the upper grille which, on mine due to modifications, is used for intake.
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
Hi and Jeags. Lowering the number plate centrally can have an adverse effect on the cooling airflow to the radiator (the air for that goes through the lower grille opening which a lowered plate can partially block). A lowered but offset plate does not create this problem - it is also very easy to do with a couple of L shaped brackets and using the existing undertray fittings (so no drilling new holes or anything needed). There is a very good DIY guide here viewtopic.php?f=30&t=50349
As you've only just got the car I should post this - Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:
1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).
2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).
3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.
4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it ) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.
5. Join the club for discounts on all sorts of things (you will very quickly get the cost of membership back - and then some), loads more info in the members only sections, local meets (or if you can't find one exactly local it is a good excuse for a drive if you come to one a bit further away), a sexy keyring just for joining and more.
As you've only just got the car I should post this - Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:
1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).
2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).
3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.
4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it ) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.
5. Join the club for discounts on all sorts of things (you will very quickly get the cost of membership back - and then some), loads more info in the members only sections, local meets (or if you can't find one exactly local it is a good excuse for a drive if you come to one a bit further away), a sexy keyring just for joining and more.
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
I know this is each to their own but personally I’m not s fan of off-set plates as it spoils the symmetry of the car. There was one in mine when I bought it 8 years ago. I have a stick on plate. I ordered one to be as legal as possible, so the size, font, spacing, makers post code etc is there.
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
£700 does indeed sound like a real bargain!
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
I must admit,I do like stick on reg plates - that E Type look dontcha know - and on an S1 it's easy to remove the Mazda badge and have the stick on plate cover the holes..something you can't do on an R3
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
Hi again,
Thanks for all the great feedback, feel really welcome! Well, since I only bought it 2 days ago, it'll need an oil change as well as plugs which I'll do this Saturday. The car has been standing before I bought it so was a bit dirty. Washed it 3 times in 2 days but there's still some grime on the car (feels gritty), so I've bought a clay bar kit to try and pick it up. I tried G3 compound and t-cut and it helps, but that layer is still there! Can't drive it until November time so I've got a lot of time to sit and think to get it perfect!
Cheers,
Jeags
Thanks for all the great feedback, feel really welcome! Well, since I only bought it 2 days ago, it'll need an oil change as well as plugs which I'll do this Saturday. The car has been standing before I bought it so was a bit dirty. Washed it 3 times in 2 days but there's still some grime on the car (feels gritty), so I've bought a clay bar kit to try and pick it up. I tried G3 compound and t-cut and it helps, but that layer is still there! Can't drive it until November time so I've got a lot of time to sit and think to get it perfect!
Cheers,
Jeags
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
Clay bar with sort it out to a smooth finish, I've come away from a bar and gone for a clay mit, I only use it once of twice before throwing away and remember to keep it well lubricated.
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
The clay bar was probably the best buy I've had in a while! Brought the colour back great with the autoglym resin polish. Did an oil and filter change yesterday and going to underseal some parts today as it's starting to flake a bit underneath. Thanks again for the great help everyone!
Jeags
Jeags
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
Besides the plugs make sure the ignition coils and plug leads are in good condition a misfire can go unnoticed and it will cause big problems if left.
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- Jeags (Mon May 27, 2019 7:33 pm)
1st Brilliant Black 190. 2nd Brilliant Black PZ. 3rd Strato Blue 230. 4th Crystal White 40th Anniversary.
Rotary FX fender grills, Japspeed stainless exhaust, Cosworth Air filter, Kinetix slotted & dimpled discs, EBC Red stuff pads, Ryan Rotary MK11 coils, Magnecor leads, Stainless front & rear grills, HID main beams, LED tail lights, front side lights/front fogs.
Rotary FX fender grills, Japspeed stainless exhaust, Cosworth Air filter, Kinetix slotted & dimpled discs, EBC Red stuff pads, Ryan Rotary MK11 coils, Magnecor leads, Stainless front & rear grills, HID main beams, LED tail lights, front side lights/front fogs.
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
I simply screwed mine on with a couple of self tappers!
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
just check the coils are either recently fitted mazda genuine rev c's or recognised upgrades. if unsure, post detailed pics up on here and we'll tell you.
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
Regarding number plates.
https://www.bucksfreepress.co.uk/news/1 ... ate-rules/
I was going to go into detail but the link provided some good basics. You can have it offset to one side. (The left - nearside in the UK)
Regarding material. Stickers a generally an MOT fail but can't find any supporting info on that. The last I read (still can't find it) had something to do with a bend test on the plate...
08 231 West Midlands.
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https://www.bucksfreepress.co.uk/news/1 ... ate-rules/
I was going to go into detail but the link provided some good basics. You can have it offset to one side. (The left - nearside in the UK)
Regarding material. Stickers a generally an MOT fail but can't find any supporting info on that. The last I read (still can't find it) had something to do with a bend test on the plate...
08 231 West Midlands.
RR D585 Coils, RRP COFS, miniMelon Map, Powerflow Twin Exhaust, 245 40r18 Uniroyal Rainsport3. Original engine 75k mi
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- Jeags (Tue May 28, 2019 1:37 pm)
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
Is that detailed enough? I assume it's the text that you need to identify it? Let me know if you need any more specific photo's and i'll try and remove the coils. Cheers again!
Jeags
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
on the bottom of the coils you will find potting compound, photograph that and also each side of the coils and post the pics up, that lettering does look genuine but it isnt the only telltale,
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
Rang the Mazda garage, they said the last spark plug change was in 2016, and it had new coils and leads in 2015. The car has done 7k miles since the last coil change in 2015 so not too sure whether I should mess about with them. Used a timing light last night and once warm, there were no issues there. Wondering whether it'd be better to put an upgraded starter motor and possibly change the plugs and leads if need be? Let me know thoughts
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
my thoughts are... you know the history, and it theory they have another 15k in them, however, for peace of mind, id go to ryan rotary performance and buy a set of rrp mk2 coils, leads, and plugs,
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Re: Numberplate Relocation
*Some* Mazda garages sourced ignition coils from very dodgy importers, rather than the official Mazda spares.
This has caused some confusion in the past, with at least one trading standards prosecution, and been part of the evidence in two losses of franchise.
One member also discovered that the "new" coils that had been fitted to his car, for which he was charged nearly £600 (fitted), were actually a used set taken off another customers car and deemed as "serviceable" by the dealer because they passed the bench test.
I'm not saying that your problems are definitely the coils but don't assume that they're not, just because you have a dealer record/receipt.
While the latest version (C-spec) Mazda coils are among the most reliable options, the Mazda HT leads really aren't up to the job; either in handling the heat on the hot side of the engine or the water (and salt) splash from the exposed location.
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=36282
This has caused some confusion in the past, with at least one trading standards prosecution, and been part of the evidence in two losses of franchise.
One member also discovered that the "new" coils that had been fitted to his car, for which he was charged nearly £600 (fitted), were actually a used set taken off another customers car and deemed as "serviceable" by the dealer because they passed the bench test.
I'm not saying that your problems are definitely the coils but don't assume that they're not, just because you have a dealer record/receipt.
While the latest version (C-spec) Mazda coils are among the most reliable options, the Mazda HT leads really aren't up to the job; either in handling the heat on the hot side of the engine or the water (and salt) splash from the exposed location.
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=36282
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