Dropped myself in at the PZ end
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Dropped myself in at the PZ end
Hi everyone!
Firstly, I'd like to say big thanks to everyone here who's already helped me when researching my purchase in the first place - even without knowing it, this place is such an amazing resource for anyone looking into the car, and as soon as I'd put my money down I signed up for club membership.
I'm delighted to say I picked up my first RX8 last night - and I was lucky enough to find a PZ in my price range, so couldn't turn it down.
I'm planning to take it as far back to 'factory fresh' as I can (minus a couple of tweaks like a SOHN adapter) - PZ's apparently have the best setup so I can't do much to beat that! It's done 76600 miles (and has minimal service history ) but so far it's just amazed me at every turn and I can't wait to get started working on it.
Couple of minor issues mechanically, a weird rattle in third gear (don't know if I can do anything about that!) and some odd idle behaviour, but it cold and hot starts great still. I think the front suspension has been lowered, have yet to confirm that but it seems to have a more wedge shaped stance than other pictures I've seen.
Bodywork wise, there's rust in the rear brakelight area, which I'm planning to get a new bootlid to replace, and also in the rear arches. I am finding out tomorrow just how far that goes, but I am braced for the worst... (Will grab some photos tomorrow, been chucking it down all day!)
...also the front woofers have been completely annihilated. I can only presume Viking death metal was a favourite of the previous owner!
I'm looking forward to taking part in the club, and more so to restoring and enjoying my RX8!
Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk
Firstly, I'd like to say big thanks to everyone here who's already helped me when researching my purchase in the first place - even without knowing it, this place is such an amazing resource for anyone looking into the car, and as soon as I'd put my money down I signed up for club membership.
I'm delighted to say I picked up my first RX8 last night - and I was lucky enough to find a PZ in my price range, so couldn't turn it down.
I'm planning to take it as far back to 'factory fresh' as I can (minus a couple of tweaks like a SOHN adapter) - PZ's apparently have the best setup so I can't do much to beat that! It's done 76600 miles (and has minimal service history ) but so far it's just amazed me at every turn and I can't wait to get started working on it.
Couple of minor issues mechanically, a weird rattle in third gear (don't know if I can do anything about that!) and some odd idle behaviour, but it cold and hot starts great still. I think the front suspension has been lowered, have yet to confirm that but it seems to have a more wedge shaped stance than other pictures I've seen.
Bodywork wise, there's rust in the rear brakelight area, which I'm planning to get a new bootlid to replace, and also in the rear arches. I am finding out tomorrow just how far that goes, but I am braced for the worst... (Will grab some photos tomorrow, been chucking it down all day!)
...also the front woofers have been completely annihilated. I can only presume Viking death metal was a favourite of the previous owner!
I'm looking forward to taking part in the club, and more so to restoring and enjoying my RX8!
Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk
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- leeroy69 (Tue Mar 12, 2019 7:38 pm)
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
Hi, and welcome to the Club. Your about to be bombarded with helpful advice, so I'll just make one comment. The correct PZ suspension is a full set of non-adjustable Bilsteins. The springs are unique, and I don't believe lowering springs are available for the model. So you either have a stock PZ, or it has had some alternative suspension fitted (which would be a shame), or your front springs have broken (unlikely, but not impossible).
The other possibility is that the front suspension is proper PZ, but the rears are stock s1 suspension. This is more likely than you'd imagine, because the rear springs are prone to break, and couldn't be replaced (until the Club arranged a special order of replacement units last year). So the previous owner may well have fitted the more common s1 units to the rear.
The other possibility is that the front suspension is proper PZ, but the rears are stock s1 suspension. This is more likely than you'd imagine, because the rear springs are prone to break, and couldn't be replaced (until the Club arranged a special order of replacement units last year). So the previous owner may well have fitted the more common s1 units to the rear.
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Dropped myself in at the PZ end
Hi & to the RX-8OC
Please put your Location here in the Profile Section
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Please put your Location here in the Profile Section
Please check out the EVENTS SECTION's - Events Team
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
This has happened at least once before.The other possibility is that the front suspension is proper PZ, but the rears are stock s1 suspension. This is more likely than you'd imagine, because the rear springs are prone to break, and couldn't be replaced (until the Club arranged a special order of replacement units last year). So the previous owner may well have fitted the more common s1 units to the rear.
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
How could I not have thought of that! I'm getting it up on some ramps tomorrow so I'll be able to take a good proper look both front and rear.PeteH wrote: ↑Tue Mar 12, 2019 8:22 pmHi, and welcome to the Club. Your about to be bombarded with helpful advice, so I'll just make one comment. The correct PZ suspension is a full set of non-adjustable Bilsteins. The springs are unique, and I don't believe lowering springs are available for the model. So you either have a stock PZ, or it has had some alternative suspension fitted (which would be a shame), or your front springs have broken (unlikely, but not impossible).
The other possibility is that the front suspension is proper PZ, but the rears are stock s1 suspension. This is more likely than you'd imagine, because the rear springs are prone to break, and couldn't be replaced (until the Club arranged a special order of replacement units last year). So the previous owner may well have fitted the more common s1 units to the rear.
I did come across the thread mentioning replacement PZ suspension sets before I joined - I just presumed they are sold out but I would definitely be interested if there are any still available.
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
Hello Honkytonk (why did I hear Dick Emery ... and how am I so old that I remember Dick Emery? ).
Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:
1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).
2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).
3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.
4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it ) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.
5. (It sounds like you don't need this, but the membership sec is away so if you have joined he hasn't been able to upgrade your status yet and you are still showing as a forum guest, so I'll leave it in just in case). Join the club for discounts on all sorts of things (you will very quickly get the cost of membership back - and then some), loads more info in the members only sections, local meets (or if you can't find one exactly local it is a good excuse for a drive if you come to one a bit further away), a sexy keyring just for joining and more.
Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:
1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).
2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).
3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.
4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it ) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.
5. (It sounds like you don't need this, but the membership sec is away so if you have joined he hasn't been able to upgrade your status yet and you are still showing as a forum guest, so I'll leave it in just in case). Join the club for discounts on all sorts of things (you will very quickly get the cost of membership back - and then some), loads more info in the members only sections, local meets (or if you can't find one exactly local it is a good excuse for a drive if you come to one a bit further away), a sexy keyring just for joining and more.
'Grington.
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Silver 192 green interior LEDS, Nordic Green hoop spoiler, roof inserts and wheels Silver Stripes (now finally retired)
former Club Treasurer 2010-18 (now finally retired)
Silver 192 green interior LEDS, Nordic Green hoop spoiler, roof inserts and wheels Silver Stripes (now finally retired)
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Dropped myself in at the PZ end
Glad I not the only one BrianShagrington wrote: ↑Tue Mar 12, 2019 11:28 pmHello Honkytonk (why did I hear Dick Emery ... and how am I so old that I remember Dick Emery? ).
GreySilver Beast-Test Drives Unlimited (Nigel)
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
Ooh I say...Shagrington wrote:Hello Honkytonk (why did I hear Dick Emery ... and how am I so old that I remember Dick Emery? ).
Thanks for your warm welcomes everyone. I'm getting it up on some ramps tonight to have a good assess of everything, but will start a thread in the correct sub forum for that (with pictures!)
I'm also glad to hear it's not only me that has trouble pulling away... Still getting used to revving it from a stop. My place is right next to a massive hill with traffic lights on so I'm going to get plenty of practise with hill starts!
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
Hi, just adding another welcome to the Club and to say I'll be looking out for what you find once you've had a good look up on the ramps.
You shouldn't have any difficulty with obtaining some replacement speakers from a breaker on here - maybe try bigpete first.
You shouldn't have any difficulty with obtaining some replacement speakers from a breaker on here - maybe try bigpete first.
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
Some PZ's have different door speakers to normal Series 1, for reasons that I've not been able to identify or find any documentation.
This may of may not have implications too for the front woofers, but you might like to pull them first and match, rather than just assume that any replacements will be the same.
Aftermarket replacements would be a problem as the Bose output is balanced for 2 Ohm speakers and (virtually) all aftermarket are either 4 or 8 Ohm. Actually, it might be worth checking that the units haven't previously been replaced with unsuitable aftermarket.
This may of may not have implications too for the front woofers, but you might like to pull them first and match, rather than just assume that any replacements will be the same.
Aftermarket replacements would be a problem as the Bose output is balanced for 2 Ohm speakers and (virtually) all aftermarket are either 4 or 8 Ohm. Actually, it might be worth checking that the units haven't previously been replaced with unsuitable aftermarket.
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
How weird, speakers specific to the PZ , I'd never have considered that. Beats me why ProDrive would go to the trouble to changing the door speakers!
Lighter weight maybe
Lighter weight maybe
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
The upgraded door speakers have a massively beneficial impact on the (already amazing) PZ handling
I would check - I had a dodgy speaker, ordered a standard S1 speaker from eBay and it didn't fit!
I would check - I had a dodgy speaker, ordered a standard S1 speaker from eBay and it didn't fit!
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
It doesn't make any sense to me either but it was identified on a PZ a few years ago and has been confirmed by many owners since.
We know that the Bose systems were loaded with base equalizer settings for "leather" vs cloth interiors, so maybe it relates to the PZ seats.
However, it does seem overkill and there's no mention in the PZ Launch/Sales materials - which go into great detail on the other changes.
The cars that Mazda UK gave Prodrive were a special factory order, not just dealer stock, so I can only assume that the change happened on the production line and maybe the PZs got the same speakers as a different (no-UK) market.
Just to confuse things further, at least one PZ owner has advised that his door speakers were the same as his other non-PZ S1. However, both had a chequered history so either/both may have been changed before.
It's unlikely that all the (to be) PZ cars were produced at the same time, so maybe one or more batches got different speakers.
Edit: +1 on this list of confirmations
We know that the Bose systems were loaded with base equalizer settings for "leather" vs cloth interiors, so maybe it relates to the PZ seats.
However, it does seem overkill and there's no mention in the PZ Launch/Sales materials - which go into great detail on the other changes.
The cars that Mazda UK gave Prodrive were a special factory order, not just dealer stock, so I can only assume that the change happened on the production line and maybe the PZs got the same speakers as a different (no-UK) market.
Just to confuse things further, at least one PZ owner has advised that his door speakers were the same as his other non-PZ S1. However, both had a chequered history so either/both may have been changed before.
It's unlikely that all the (to be) PZ cars were produced at the same time, so maybe one or more batches got different speakers.
Edit: +1 on this list of confirmations
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
Wow, okay, thanks all. Will definitely bear this in mind. I need to swap the passenger door card out anyway as someone took a big chunk out of it (looks like they were transporting 2x4 or something ) so when I whip it off I should get a good idea of what the drivers are like.
Conveniently I work for an audio company so there's probably something I can do, whether it's stock or not.
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Conveniently I work for an audio company so there's probably something I can do, whether it's stock or not.
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
To save extra searching about for people interested in my suspension, here's a side profile of the car. I think you can see what I mean by a low front end. Suspension doesn't seem broken (although maybe that's just me coming from a Vauxhall Vectra B...) which makes me think perhaps it's coilovers and I might be able to raise it back up. Will post with my findings when I'm done tonight!
//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201903 ... c842f4.jpg
//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201903 ... c842f4.jpg
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
Welcome to the club!
The front 100% shouldn’t be like that. Looks rather slammed there and dare I say kinda a bit dangerous to drive fast round corners.
Edit to add OP picture.
The front 100% shouldn’t be like that. Looks rather slammed there and dare I say kinda a bit dangerous to drive fast round corners.
Edit to add OP picture.
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
Stock PZ units can't do that unless you have an elephant in your engine bay. That looks like it's running on the bump stops. Defo something none-standard going on there.
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
Lowered...?
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
Wow, serious risk of sump damage with the front that low!
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Seibon Carbon Fibre Bonnet, "Racing Brake" front calipers, Racing Beat (RB) ARB's F&R, RB REVI intake, full RB Stainless Steel Exhaust & Mani, 20mm Eibach spacers, KOYO Ali Rad, Lightened Fly, Tein MonoFlex coilovers & strut brace, Axial short-shifter, BHR Coils & Engine Mounts, Greddy Sump
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Seibon Carbon Fibre Bonnet, "Racing Brake" front calipers, Racing Beat (RB) ARB's F&R, RB REVI intake, full RB Stainless Steel Exhaust & Mani, 20mm Eibach spacers, KOYO Ali Rad, Lightened Fly, Tein MonoFlex coilovers & strut brace, Axial short-shifter, BHR Coils & Engine Mounts, Greddy Sump
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
Right, So...
A quick rootle under and inside the car tonight has taught me that my rust problems are minimal to none apart from surface bubbling (Yay!), and I have the correct rear suspension setup (Also yay!).
Front suspension, well this is where Dr Frankenstein gets involved (no, not you FrankenRex).
It appears someone has taken the original shocks and put these lowering springs (or similar) on them. I can understand being unable to source the correct ones, but putting lowering springs on? 'sigh'. This is, however, not as bad as I was fearing.
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A quick rootle under and inside the car tonight has taught me that my rust problems are minimal to none apart from surface bubbling (Yay!), and I have the correct rear suspension setup (Also yay!).
Front suspension, well this is where Dr Frankenstein gets involved (no, not you FrankenRex).
It appears someone has taken the original shocks and put these lowering springs (or similar) on them. I can understand being unable to source the correct ones, but putting lowering springs on? 'sigh'. This is, however, not as bad as I was fearing.
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
They've also torn the front gaiter
https://shop.rx8oc.co.uk/RX-8_front_sus ... 72001.aspx (currently out-of-stock)
https://shop.rx8oc.co.uk/RX-8_front_sus ... 72001.aspx (currently out-of-stock)
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
Just on the one side luckily. I think I'm best hoiking both front suspension assemblies out and getting them redone. They haven't touched the rears by the looks of it, thankfully.warpc0il wrote:They've also torn the front gaiter
https://shop.rx8oc.co.uk/RX-8_front_sus ... 72001.aspx (currently out-of-stock)
It drives fine (though obviously I'm taking it careful as with every 'new' car, but more so with the front that low...) and passed an MOT spotlessly in January - I believe the previous owner when he said he hadn't fiddled with it, he only had it for 7 months.
Luckily I have my Vectra for dailying and gadding about town in (see attached!), wonderful boat that it is.
I will starting up a thread in the ongoing builds section I think, rather than going off topic here. Thanks for all your advice and help everyone!
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Marvel at the Amazing Technicolour P-Shed Project Thread
And my OEM-only Luton Adonis, the Mighty Vectra!
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And my OEM-only Luton Adonis, the Mighty Vectra!
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
Counting the coils, I think they have put the rear Direnzas on the front suspension.
Also, the PZ units require flat ground spring ends. But the Direnzas have the unground "pig tail" ends. This could cause either the springs or the spring seats to fail.
I'd get them changed ASAP if I were you.....
Also, the PZ units require flat ground spring ends. But the Direnzas have the unground "pig tail" ends. This could cause either the springs or the spring seats to fail.
I'd get them changed ASAP if I were you.....
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Re: Dropped myself in at the PZ end
Yep, getting them sorted is my first job, and luckily nothing else to worry majorly about. Am heading over to the other thread to see if I can pick up a set of PZ suspension. Got the airbag recall to do as well so I may ask the Mazda dealership if they could do both at the same time.PeteH wrote:Counting the coils, I think they have put the rear Direnzas on the front suspension.
Also, the PZ units require flat ground spring ends. But the Direnzas have the unground "pig tail" ends. This could cause either the springs or the spring seats to fail.
I'd get them changed ASAP if I were you.....
On a less broken/mangled note, I only just realised you could change your dials from white to red last night on my way back from where I keep my ramps.
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Marvel at the Amazing Technicolour P-Shed Project Thread
And my OEM-only Luton Adonis, the Mighty Vectra!
Marvel at the Amazing Technicolour P-Shed Project Thread
And my OEM-only Luton Adonis, the Mighty Vectra!