Hi all,
Just wanted to say hello as recently bought a PZ from another club member. I’m familiar with (older) Mazda’s, coming from a Mk1 Mx5/Eunos which I extensively modified with ITB’s, among many other changes and improvements.
Thoroughly enjoying the RX8 already, performance has totally exceeded my expectations. The car is purely for weekend driving, so I’ll be taking my time to work through a list of jobs. First port of call is to replace the suspension before moving on to the usual bolt-ons as necessary.
Looking forward to getting involved in the club where possible (I’ve joined as a full member).
Thanks
PZ Owner
-
- Events Team Member
- Posts: 12606
- Joined: Sun Jun 27, 2004 7:14 pm
- RX-8: 231
- Colour: Titanium Grey
- Location: Colchester
- Has thanked: 508 times
- Been thanked: 453 times
Re: PZ Owner
Welcome to the Club - the PZ is a great version of the RX-8, as you have discovered.
I've noted your request re purchase of a PZ suspension set from the Club stock and the Committee are currently working on this, having just got back from a busy weekend
I've noted your request re purchase of a PZ suspension set from the Club stock and the Committee are currently working on this, having just got back from a busy weekend
Essex Rotary Full Bridgeport
Seibon Carbon Fibre Bonnet, "Racing Brake" front calipers, Racing Beat (RB) ARB's F&R, RB REVI intake, full RB Stainless Steel Exhaust & Mani, 20mm Eibach spacers, KOYO Ali Rad, Lightened Fly, Tein MonoFlex coilovers & strut brace, Axial short-shifter, BHR Coils & Engine Mounts, Greddy Sump
Federal 595RS-R or Rainsport 3
Seibon Carbon Fibre Bonnet, "Racing Brake" front calipers, Racing Beat (RB) ARB's F&R, RB REVI intake, full RB Stainless Steel Exhaust & Mani, 20mm Eibach spacers, KOYO Ali Rad, Lightened Fly, Tein MonoFlex coilovers & strut brace, Axial short-shifter, BHR Coils & Engine Mounts, Greddy Sump
Federal 595RS-R or Rainsport 3
-
- Former Member
- Posts: 64953
- Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2006 6:57 pm
- Location: Somewhere in the UK
- Has thanked: 1581 times
- Been thanked: 365 times
PZ Owner
GreySilver Beast-Test Drives Unlimited (Nigel)
Club Member from 2006 - present
Events Team from 2015 - 2024
Events Coordinator from 2017 - 2023
Administrator from 2012 - present RX-8 Owners Club UK
Tesla M3LR AB 363 AWD " Blue Beast "
Club Member from 2006 - present
Events Team from 2015 - 2024
Events Coordinator from 2017 - 2023
Administrator from 2012 - present RX-8 Owners Club UK
Tesla M3LR AB 363 AWD " Blue Beast "
-
- Former Member
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2019 12:05 pm
- RX-8: PZ
- Colour: Brilliant Black
- Location: Buckingham
- Has thanked: 0
- Been thanked: 2 times
Re: PZ Owner
Thanks for the warm welcome folks. Here’s a pic after a quick wash the other day:
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
- These users thanked the author MRBX for the post:
- GreySilver Beast (Wed Feb 27, 2019 7:56 pm)
-
- Forum Moderator
- Posts: 32772
- Joined: Tue Sep 12, 2006 1:54 am
- RX-8: 192
- Colour: Sunlight Silver
- Location: Kent (out in the sticks - nothing urban here)
- Has thanked: 266 times
- Been thanked: 320 times
Re: PZ Owner
Hi and MRBX. Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:
1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).
2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).
3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.
4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it ) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.
Thanks for joining the club - I don't need to add my usual 5th tip
1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).
2. Never turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).
3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.
4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it ) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great.
Thanks for joining the club - I don't need to add my usual 5th tip
'Grington.
former Club Treasurer 2010-18 (now finally retired)
Silver 192 green interior LEDS, Nordic Green hoop spoiler, roof inserts and wheels Silver Stripes (now finally retired)
former Club Treasurer 2010-18 (now finally retired)
Silver 192 green interior LEDS, Nordic Green hoop spoiler, roof inserts and wheels Silver Stripes (now finally retired)