Hi, Thomas from Belgium

A chance to introduce yourself...
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Hi, Thomas from Belgium

Post by *thomas* »

Hi all

I just joined the board as I bought my forst RX8 (and Rotory car for that matter) last week. Well, I actually bought it in March, just before Covid, but since it was located in the Netherlands, I could not pick it up.

It's a 2004 car, two owner car (second owner had it for 10 years) and the engine has just been rebuild by a reputable Rotary specialist, so should be fine. It's a 192BHP model and it's bone stock.

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I will do some mods to the car once it's road legal (friday, I hope), but am on the lookout for a mazdaspeed bodykit (genuine, not a replica) and a set of R3 wheels... So if anyone has either, drop me a message.

Cheers

T.
Last edited by *thomas* on Mon Jul 26, 2021 9:25 pm, edited 6 times in total.
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Hi, Thomas from Belgium

Post by GreySilver Beast »

Hi Thomas & :welcome: to the RX-8OC :thumleft:

<<<<<< Please put your Location in your Profile Box, it will help us to know where you are, if required any help in the future :thumright:

Please check out the EVENTS SECTION's for anything coming up soon in your area :thumleft:

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Re: Hi, Thomas from Belgium

Post by Shagrington »

Hi and :welcome: *thomas*. :D Congratulations on finally being able to get your car.

Have a good read through whatever in the FAQ section you didn't already read :study: and then (and just ignore me if you know all this already) here are my best tips for keeping it all running sweetly:

1. To start up turn the key to position 2, wait for most of the lights on the dash to go out (I watch the airbag light by the glove box), press the clutch to the floor (optional, but reduces drag), turn the key to start and do not touch the throttle until it has started. You can drive off straight away, just keep the revs down for a bit (see #4 below).

2. Never [-X turn off the engine before it has reached at least somewhere towards normal operating temperature (should only take a minute or two, but best to go for a short drive if just swapping cars round on the drive etc). Switching off cold risks flooding, which is a real :censored: with a rotary engine. Mazda recommend rev to 4k and hold it for 8-10 seconds switching off while still revving if you have no option but to switch off cold (it is not necessary to do this in any other circumstance).

3. Check the oil level regularly (use the dipstick - the oil gauge tells you nothing other than that you have or don't have pressure) and top up if necessary with semi synthetic 5w30 (most people and specialists are advising to use 10w40 now though) ... small amounts at a time, no more than ½ a litre then check the level again before adding more as you don't want to overfill it.

4. Use all the revs once the engine is nice and warm (don't sit idling to warm up, start up and drive but keep it below about 4k until the needle on the water temperature gauge is pointing straight up, then give it another 10 minutes for the oil to warm up too before really thrashing it :twisted: ) and hit the beep often. Best acceleration is from 4k revs up - to pull away you really need to rev to 2k - you can let the revs drop after lifting the clutch if you are in traffic, cruising steadily at 3½k revs and changing down to go up hills or accelerate gets you the best mpg ... which still won't be great. ;)

5. We do have an 'overseas' club membership if you think it might be of benefit to you. My usual number 5 tip says to join the club for discounts on all sorts of things (you will very quickly get the cost of membership back - and then some), loads more info in the members only sections (including access to all the workshop and technical manuals), local meets (when we start them again, they're currently all postponed for obvious reasons - if you can't find one exactly local it is a good excuse for a drive if you come to one a bit further away), a sexy keyring just for joining and more. :thumright:
Obviously the local meets will not be local for you and I suspect other events we attend as a club (when they start again) may not be easy for you to get to either. There is the sexy keyring. ;)
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Re: Hi, Thomas from Belgium

Post by *thomas* »

Thanks for the advice. Having to wait for the car has given me the opportunity do to a lot of reading about them. Still, I learn every day :).
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Re: Hi, Thomas from Belgium - wheels ...

Post by *thomas* »

I have a question that is wheel related. I found a thread, but can not reply (new member?).

I have decided that I want a set of BBS wheels so replace my stock 18x8 50ET S1 wheels, but have a few questions about rim and tire size.

The wheels come in:

8*18 ET50
8*18 ET40

8.5*19 ET45
8.5*19 ET35

I was wondering if the last option will still be tucked under the arch (as in: not stick out) and if mated to a 245/35/19 tire, it wouldn't be to much of a compromise? I know R3's run 8*19 et45 with 225/40/19 and people have said the ride can be stiff.

The car is on stock 'sport' suspension, but I'd like it a bit lowered (will probably go Bilstein / Eibach route, and nothing extreme).
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Re: Hi, Thomas from Belgium - wheels and transmission oil

Post by *thomas* »

I'm planning on changing the transmission (5 speed) and diff oil on my car. I have a bunch of castrol syntrax universal plus 75w90 left over from my Subaru.

Image

Specs:

API GL-4 / API GL-5 / MT-1
MAN 3343 S, MAN 341 E3
Scania STO 1:0
MB 235.8
ZF TE-ML 02B, ZF TE-ML 05B, ZF TE-ML 12B, ZF TE-ML 16F, ZF TE-ML 17B, ZF TE-ML 19C, ZF TE-ML 21B
SAE J2360 (MIL-PRF-2105E)


The castrol website it's safe to use in the transmission AND rear diff. But not sure, as it's not specific for LSD diffs...
Last edited by *thomas* on Mon Jul 06, 2020 6:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Hi, Thomas from Belgium - wheels and transmission oil

Post by Craig010 »

The type of diff fitted to the RX8 is not fussy about the oil used, and does not require it to have special friction modifiers. As long as it's correctly weighted, and of GL-5 spec, the stuff you have should be fine.

Some transmissions however are VERY fussy, with some people reporting synchro failure after using oils that meet both GL-4 & GL-5 spec, such as the one you have listed. This is thought to be due to the oil being too slippery for our synchronizers to work effectively, and wearing them out prematurely.

Only use a specific GL-4 rated, 75w-90 oil in the transmission. I have used Redline MT-90, which has improved the shift quality greatly.
Last edited by Craig010 on Mon Jul 06, 2020 7:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Hi, Thomas from Belgium - wheels and transmission oil

Post by qwakers »

true enough but thats for the 6 speed. the 5 speed is reportedly a lot less touchy,

not sure i would use it though. better safe than sorry and all that...
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Re: Hi, Thomas from Belgium - wheels and transmission oil

Post by casey »

As you have the 5 Speed transmission that oil ought to be OK (it would certainly NOT be OK in the 6 speed!).

Ought to be OK in the diff too.

Reference here: viewtopic.php?f=25&t=50814
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*thomas* (Mon Jul 06, 2020 8:52 pm)
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Re: Hi, Thomas from Belgium - wheels and transmission oil

Post by Craig010 »

My fault, I didn't realise it was a 5 speed car. As above then, should be fine as the 5 speed is supposedly made of some strong stuff, however not sure it's worth the risk, even with the 5 speed.
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*thomas* (Mon Jul 06, 2020 8:52 pm)
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Re: Hi, Thomas from Belgium - wheels and transmission oil

Post by *thomas* »

Thanks guys for the info. Will use it for the diff, but not for the transmission. I don't like taking risks.

Redline is not easy to obtain over here, but what about Motul Gear 300?

Edit: Castrol Syntrans Multi Vehicle is mentioned in the oil thread (very comprehensive, thanks), will give that a go. It's rated as GL4 only. (no 5)
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Re: Hi, Thomas from Belgium - wheels and transmission oil

Post by R1DSO »

*thomas* wrote:
Mon Jul 06, 2020 8:52 pm
Thanks guys for the info. Will use it for the diff, but not for the transmission. I don't like taking risks.

Redline is not easy to obtain over here, but what about Motul Gear 300?

Edit: Castrol Syntrans Multi Vehicle is mentioned in the oil thread (very comprehensive, thanks), will give that a go. It's rated as GL4 only. (no 5)
This trader sells Redline MT-90 and it’s Amazon, so I expect international shipping is easy:



Heads-up that, whilst Redline seems to be the ‘go to’ solution and improved my shifting, it likes to be hot and takes a fairly long time to warm up. Although I hear the 5-speed is made of stronger stuff than the chocolate 6-speed, you may experience some stiffness and notchiness for the first 5mins or so of driving with MT-90. My gear changes feel best after a good 40mins of driving and have felt slickest at track day temperatures.

There was talk on the US forum about a Ford brand transmission oil that performed comparably with Redline, but warmed up more quickly. My notes tell me that it was Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS, although I have no first-hand experience of this.
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Re: Hi, Thomas from Belgium - wheels and transmission oil

Post by *thomas* »

R1DSO wrote:
Mon Jul 06, 2020 11:23 pm
There was talk on the US forum about a Ford brand transmission oil that performed comparably with Redline, but warmed up more quickly. My notes tell me that it was Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS, although I have no first-hand experience of this.
Thanks for the advice. The Castrol I mentioned (and which was also mentioned in the 'oil-thread') is FORD-specific. It could very well be that FORD is using the same stuff (relabeled).
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Re: Hi, Thomas from Belgium - wheels and transmission oil

Post by warpc0il »

Mazda were 40% owned by Ford back when the RX-8 was being developed and there was a lot of interaction between the engineering teams and supplier sourcing.

It's no coincidence that Forscan is just as happy talking to the RX-8 PCM as it is to a Focus.

There was much more cooperation between Ford of Europe and Mazda, than between FoE and Ford USA.

It wouldn't surprise me at all to find a FoE specification transmission oil perfect for the 8.

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Re: Hi, Thomas from Belgium - wheels ...

Post by *thomas* »

*thomas* wrote:
Thu Jul 02, 2020 2:27 pm
I have a question that is wheel related. I found a thread, but can not reply (new member?).

I have decided that I want a set of BBS wheels so replace my stock 18x8 50ET S1 wheels, but have a few questions about rim and tire size.

The wheels come in:

8*18 ET50
8*18 ET40

8.5*19 ET45
8.5*19 ET35

I was wondering if the last option will still be tucked under the arch (as in: not stick out) and if mated to a 245/35/19 tire, it wouldn't be to much of a compromise? I know R3's run 8*19 et45 with 225/40/19 and people have said the ride can be stiff.

The car is on stock 'sport' suspension, but I'd like it a bit lowered (will probably go Bilstein / Eibach route, and nothing extreme).
Anyone who can chime in on this? Thanks :)
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Re: Hi, Thomas from Belgium

Post by qwakers »

Thomas, if you wish I can move the relevant posts to a project thread in the correct section of the forum...
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*thomas* (Tue Jul 27, 2021 2:17 pm)
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Re: Hi, Thomas from Belgium

Post by *thomas* »

If this is considered a project, yes, please do. I wasn't to sure because every forum has it's own idea about what makes something a project.
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Re: Hi, Thomas from Belgium

Post by *thomas* »

The car currently sits at 102 624kms (approx 65000 miles). Time for an oil change.

Last year I overfilled the engine with oil due to the oil pressure light staying on... After draining the engine and filling it with approx 3,5 liters (on the dipstick, the oil sits at 1/4 bellow MAX level) the light doesn't want to go out. I was already considering to change-out the oil pan which will also include a new switch.

Cleaned the inlet and airbox from oil residue from last time and changed the airfilter and cabin filter.

Image

Image

Image

A few weeks ago, I also installed a white screen washer bottle. The black ones look ugly and are a pain to read the level properly.

Image
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Re: Hi, Thomas from Belgium

Post by warpc0il »

It's not that uncommon for the oil level switch to fail, often associated with a slight leak.

If there's no sign a leak, check the switch with an ohmeter (or bulb and battery) to earth, as the other case of the light staying on can be damage to the loom - basically the sensor wire earthed.

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Re: Hi, Thomas from Belgium

Post by *thomas* »

warpc0il wrote:
Sat Aug 06, 2022 9:24 pm
It's not that uncommon for the oil level switch to fail, often associated with a slight leak.
Thanks. Funny thing was that last time after adding (too much) oil, it went out and stayed out.

Still will change the oil pan. It's a bit rusty and ATM I'm trying to make the car's underside look good again.
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