FORscan for the RX8

[HarSc]

I've programmed a pair of 41585s to my R3, as suspected all functions work on them including the boot pop. So R3 owners, if you find you've got a key fob that doesn't open the boot, it's probably a 41787 from a series 1 rather than a 41585. Finding the keys individually is nigh on impossible, I got my pair by coming across a listing on ebay for an ecu, key unit, locks, and 2x keys - for only £100 all up. Pretty good going given that even 41787 keys usually sell for around £50 each on their own.

Worth keeping the ECU around too, no harm in having the spare if you were to run into any issues in future nice work though! Fresh keys are always nice

[rotatopotato]

Exactly, I've kept all the other pieces as spares - I've read about your ESS adventures that resulted in an ecu replacement!

[HarSc]

Definitely. Kinda annoying that I didn't try the ECU earlier didn't take that long, and would have saved a lot of faffing.... Anyways, hindsight is 20:20, so not to worry

[NipponBansai]

Hi guys, Need a little help.
So everything has been smooth sailing up until it comes to programming my FOB. I hear the lock and unlock of the locks and press the buttons twice... Nothing happens. I tried erasing all the keys, didn't work. Tried pressing different buttons twice but to no avail. The Fob light works when I press it, so I presume it still has power enough to transmit.
Any ideas?

[rotatopotato]

Front Brake bleeding. I don't have pics yet just want to get it down before I forget. This is from memory and needs refinement. I will do it when taking pics.

Make sure you have a very charged battery in the car!

Connect to forscan with a fully compatible dongle.

Turn car on

Connect to car, Check Abs module is registered.

connection crop.jpg

Go to graph (left hand side, it will look like the second picture in a sec currently it should just be empty.)

Graph.jpg

ABS pre toggles.jpg

Go to settings (bottom left)
Graph controls.jpg

Select the drop down and go to abs

*Pic mia*

Drop down read and select control

*Pic mia*

Select all and click the right arrow.

*Pic mia*

Click ok

*Pic mia*

Press play, Press the slider icon that's greyed out
Graph controls.jpg

You now have a toggle for all the things!

ABS toggles.jpg

Turn on all the options for the wheel you are using. ( need to double check. Might need to do all but the DSC or traction valve.


Turn on the pump

Turn on the ones I mentioned above ( will edit this to make it clear once I do it again :-(

Crack bleed nipple and watch the resi drain into your container!

Now to find out why the same won't work for the rear.

Just had a go at this, further notes:

* Need to have Stability solenoid on for the side you're working on as well as the relevant inlet/outlet for the wheel, but not Traction as it won't work with that on.
* Need to create the 'read' abs pids as well as the control pids in order to be able to press Play and toggle the valves/pump (ie you need to have a readout on the abs pids while you're doing the live stream and control)
* Battery must be fully charged or you'll get an error switching pids when trying to turn the pump on (my battery had dropped to 8v yesterday, but today fully charged it worked)

Can't confirm if rear worked as I only finally figured it all out as I was finishing up the drivers front wheel. Will try again next time I come to bleed the brakes. I'll also try to get some screenshot then as well, this was all done in a rush hence its just a brain dump for now.

[rotatopotato]

Might be worth splitting off separate topics for keys/fobs and brakes.

[rotatopotato]

Front Brake bleeding. I don't have pics yet just want to get it down before I forget. This is from memory and needs refinement. I will do it when taking pics.

Make sure you have a very charged battery in the car!

Connect to forscan with a fully compatible dongle.

Turn car on

Connect to car, Check Abs module is registered.

connection crop.jpg

Go to graph (left hand side, it will look like the second picture in a sec currently it should just be empty.)

Graph.jpg

ABS pre toggles.jpg

Go to settings (bottom left)
Graph controls.jpg

Select the drop down and go to abs

*Pic mia*

Drop down read and select control

*Pic mia*

Select all and click the right arrow.

*Pic mia*

Click ok

*Pic mia*

Press play, Press the slider icon that's greyed out
Graph controls.jpg

You now have a toggle for all the things!

ABS toggles.jpg

Turn on all the options for the wheel you are using. ( need to double check. Might need to do all but the DSC or traction valve.


Turn on the pump

Turn on the ones I mentioned above ( will edit this to make it clear once I do it again :-(

Crack bleed nipple and watch the resi drain into your container!

Now to find out why the same won't work for the rear.

Just had a go at this, further notes:

* Need to have Stability solenoid on for the side you're working on as well as the relevant inlet/outlet for the wheel, but not Traction as it won't work with that on.
* Need to create the 'read' abs pids as well as the control pids in order to be able to press Play and toggle the valves/pump (ie you need to have a readout on the abs pids while you're doing the live stream and control)
* Battery must be fully charged or you'll get an error switching pids when trying to turn the pump on (my battery had dropped to 8v yesterday, but today fully charged it worked)

Can't confirm if rear worked as I only finally figured it all out as I was finishing up the drivers front wheel. Will try again next time I come to bleed the brakes. I'll also try to get some screenshot then as well, this was all done in a rush hence its just a brain dump for now.

Ran through this process again today, it does not appear to be possible to use the abs pump to bleed the rear brakes as I tried every combination I could of inlet/outlet valves, stability/traction solenoids, and this is what I found:

To use the abs pump to bleed the front brakes, all you need to toggle on is the left or right stability control solenoid and then turn on the abs pump. That's it, none of the inlet/outlet valves need to be toggled, nor the traction control solenoid.

I'm guessing the inlet/outlet valve toggles are there for diagnostic purposes, as the switch off immediately as soon as the pump is turned on. The only thing I noticed is that when any of the inlet valves are toggled on, the pedal is firm as if the bleed nipples are closed, and indeed no fluid comes out. Beyond that I couldn't figure out any use for them.

I'm not sure why the pump doesn't run fluid through the rears but at least doing it for the fronts ensures that you're running fresh fluid through the pump and releasing any trapped air bubbles, as I discovered today when I re-bled with the pump after a manual fluid change yesterday that didn't cure a soft/long pedal post-trackday.