One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

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One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

Post by Phil Bate » Sun Sep 08, 2019 1:24 am

There's no substitute for a second person operating the pedals when it comes to bleeding the hydraulics, but sometimes you don't have a second person. There are other methods out there, namely vacuum based solutions that draw fluid from the bleed nipples but the Eezibleed forces fluid through the system from the reservoir, all the while keeping it topped up in the process.



gunson-eezibleed-brake-clutch-bleed-kit-g4062-2706-p.jpg
gunson-eezibleed-brake-clutch-bleed-kit-g4062-2706-p.jpg (57.92 KiB) Viewed 220 times



For those that don't know, it consists of a bottle to hold fresh fluid that is pressurised by a Schrader valve that you fit to a tyre (let down to 20PSI) and an assortment of caps designed to fit various reservoirs. The air pressure forces fluid from the bottle through the clear hose and selected cap into the reservoir, the theory being as you crack open a bleed nipple the old fluid is forced out and fresh fluid drops in to the reservoir.

Also for those that don't know, the problem for us is having a bayonet type fitting on the reservoir, where all the supplied caps are threaded. You can force one of the caps to fit loaded with two rubber washers and it will seal, but it is sketchy - if any air can leak from the reservoir/cap interface then brake fluid will eventually be squirted. There is also the risk that the cap will pop off, causing an unwelcome DOT shower.


Fortunately if you get hold of a spare reservoir cap for your car it's very easy to modify for use with the kit - here's one I made earlier. Finally. After it sitting on the shelf for six years:




IMG_20190906_235749 (Large).jpg

First, remove the rubber seal, sand the pesky raised writing from the centre of the cap (I used a Roloc disc on a drill arbor) and drill a 10mm hole through, as above. You want a nice smooth surface for about 2mm around the hole for the hose fitting to seal, I just got carried away.
Then flip it over and observe the three grooves that allow air into the reservoir:



IMG_20190906_235757 (Large).jpg



The rubber washers from the Gunson kit fit nicely here but you need to fill these grooves to stop air (and eventually fluid) getting past. If you don't mind dedicating one of the kit washers solely to this purpose, go ahead and squirt silicone sealant all around the base outside the centre circle where it will sit, and stick the washer to it while wet (you want the thick one by the way).
If you want to be able to swap caps and washers around for other vehicles still, simply fill the grooves with sealant and spread it flat:

IMG_20190907_000444 (Large).jpg

Once dry you will need to apply some Hylomar here for a perfect seal before fitting the washer if using this method. Either way, big rubber washer in place you can fit the feed hose to your newly modified cap (11mm spanner).

IMG_20190907_115221 (Large).jpg


Now you're ready to go. Return to the car and have your brake fluid ready, but first I will now bestow upon you two very important tips:

1: observe how the original cap engages the reservoir. See how much it rotates by before fully locking - you must make sure the filling cap fully locks or it will escape. With brake fluid. Everywhere.

2: fit the bottle and everything up MINUS the brake fluid first, pressurise it and listen for leaks. If it doesn't hiss then you're good to go.


IMG_20190907_143442 (Large).jpg



When you fit the pressure hose to the tyre you will see fluid rush into the reservoir (hopefully) momentarily. As long as it stops and the level in the reservoir isn't creeping up then you're all sealed and can continue.

If anything does go wrong, just remove the hose from the tyre. Don't try to remove the cap from the reservoir first as it will then dump fluid everywhere quickly. Also don't be clever and try inverting the bottle to temporarily interrupt the fluid flow, as it will enter the top of the pressure hose and then be forced back through to the valve when you release it, covering your wheel in fluid.

Don't forget to drop the tyre to 20 PSI.



All the draconian warnings aside, it's pretty easy and as long as you get a good seal on the reservoir before you add any fluid you can't really go wrong. Today I bled a replacement clutch slave cylinder and front brake calipers all from empty, and it took about a minute once hooked up.
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Re: One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

Post by warpc0il » Sun Sep 08, 2019 1:50 am

I tried this (almost) exact method on another members car, and it worked fine.

I then used the very same modified cap on my car and it initially held pressure, only to then start spraying a mist of brake fluid over the offside wing, while I had my head in the nearside wheel arch.

Thankfully I noticed before there was permanent damage to the paint.

I suspected that the problem was that the first time was on a post-2006 master cylinder, while mine in an '04.
This may, or may not, be relevant but I won't be trying it again :(
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Re: One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

Post by Phil Bate » Sun Sep 08, 2019 1:59 am

It might be the kit Dave - I noticed the new one I bought yesterday came with an additional extra thick washer which needed quite some force to close the lid and worked a treat. With my old kit I had to double up the washers and it still didn't always seal.


Also the Hylomar is essential if you don't bond the washer to the cap, or it will intermittently leak.
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Re: One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

Post by Essex2Visuvesi » Sun Sep 08, 2019 10:49 am

Personally I have always used the suction type.
500ml Syringe and a bit of tubing.
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Re: One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

Post by Davred » Sun Sep 08, 2019 5:22 pm

Fitted easibleed non return valves all round, no problem and easy fluid change alone.
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Re: One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

Post by warpc0il » Sun Sep 08, 2019 5:33 pm

The advantage of the Gunson system is that it not only provides pressure but it also keeps the reservoir topped-up with fluid.

How many times have you gone round bleeding each wheel, only to have the fluid level drop and more air getting in? :roll:


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Re: One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

Post by Delanor » Sun Sep 08, 2019 10:47 pm

Gunson now supply a couple of multipurpose caps but they both look a bit Heath Robinson for holding pressure - one is £12 and the other £16.

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Re: One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

Post by V8 Power » Sun Sep 08, 2019 10:53 pm

After all the above talk of leaks, spray and general other failures I think I will stick with a pumping partner :D
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Re: One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

Post by dern » Mon Sep 09, 2019 9:14 am

I used to love mine but it was a faff to use. I now use the suction type connected to a compressor. You do have to use ptfe tape on the bleed nipple threads to stop air being drawn through but that aside I find it a lot cleaner and quicker. Easier to do for bikes too. But you do need a compressor so horses for courses.
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Re: One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

Post by New Duke » Mon Sep 09, 2019 9:37 am

V8 Power wrote:
Sun Sep 08, 2019 10:53 pm
After all the above talk of leaks, spray and general other failures I think I will stick with a pumping partner :D
Bit too much info there. Some of us simply prefer to pump it alone. No shame in that ;)

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Re: One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

Post by warpc0il » Mon Sep 09, 2019 10:35 am

You only go blind if it hits you in the eye, apparently ;)
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Re: One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

Post by Delanor » Mon Sep 09, 2019 11:08 am

I have used an Eezibleed for many years on many different make cars etc but my best attempt was after my brother had borrowed it to use on his Mk1 LandRover, well I had only ever used the 44-45mm reservoir cap and unbeknown to me my brother had changed it to the 46mm cap to fit his LandRover of course the next time I used it I screwed the cap on the reservoir of my then RAV 4 (44-45mm cap) connected the airline and Poof! the cap blew off and OMG panic! brake fluid covered everywhere.

A lesson to be learned there me thinks.

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Re: One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

Post by Phil Bate » Mon Sep 09, 2019 12:27 pm

Always pressurise it without fluid first! That's the downside to the Eezibleed - as soon as the seal is lost, brake fluid will come out. I found that with a modified RX-8 cap and the thick washer however the fit is solid, you can feel how it locks into place that it won't go anywhere and I was perfectly confident in it.

I know there are other methods available namely vacuum devices but I thought this would be handy for anyone wanting to give this way a try, it does save you getting up every minute to top up the fluid. Of course it is simple to use this system in 'safe mode' - just max out your reservoir with fluid and don't put any in the Eezibleed bottle, using it only for pressure in substitution for a pedal operator.
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Re: One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

Post by Clive » Mon Sep 09, 2019 12:56 pm

After using and trying so many types of brake bleeding devices over the years during my career from an apprentice on wards , I found this super simple device "THAT WORKS" for just £6.99 delivered :mrgreen: Been using it for the last year and have friends who now have them who also cant believe how well this works as a one man operation.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-easy-ble ... SwCJxaITJR
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Re: One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

Post by PeteH » Mon Sep 09, 2019 1:43 pm

Just to add to the methods... When I have been stuck without a helper before, I have bled the brakes by cracking off the bleed nipple a tiny amount (still "finger tight"). When you press the brake pedal you produce a huge amount of fluid pressure, and you can force the fluid past the nipple, but when you release the pedal then the atmospheric pressure isn't sufficient to allow fluid or air back into the caliper. In this way you can do a very effective one man bleed. It's not ideal, and I wouldn't recommend it as standard practice, but it can get you out of a hole.
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Re: One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

Post by Delanor » Tue Sep 10, 2019 1:00 pm

Hello Sir.

Thank you for your enquiry.
The Gunson Eezibleed is supplied without a cap for the bayonet type caps on brake systems.
We do sell a multipurpose cap G4058 which can be added to the Eezibleed kit Gunson G4062 but it can be difficult to get a good seal with this type of cap, due to the limited mounting points to create an all round seal.

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Re: One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

Post by warpc0il » Tue Sep 10, 2019 6:46 pm

The problem with bayonet-fitting caps is the action.

All caps must allow air to enter to allow normal operation.
Most screw caps do this by having a vertical slot in the thread, either on internal thread of the cap or the external thread of the tank boss.
Bayonet caps work by pushing down to overcome the locking pins and then springing back up slightly to lock in place, the gap created is what allows the cap to breath.
Just as a domestic bayonet cap lightbulb goes further into the fitting and then back out to lock, which is why the contacts have to be sprung.

Anyway, if you modify a bayonet cap to take a pressure fitting, then you have to use a gasket seal with enough compression compliance to allow you to push down enough to overcome the locking pins and then enough resilience to still form a gas-tight seal when the cap is up in the locked position.

Too thick/firm and you can't get the cap to lock
Too thin/soft and and you won't get a seal when it's locked.
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Re: One man brake/clutch bleeding with Gunson Eezibleed

Post by Delanor » Tue Sep 10, 2019 7:37 pm

Or Mazda could just fit a reservoir with a screw thread cap like most manufacturers.

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