Very basic track stuff
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Very basic track stuff
"IF" i go to the AGM i would have a go at the sprint and have some track time but i don't really think that would be wise in a totally standard car so some advice would be nice on some basics ie parts
Tyres at the moment are bridgestone 40's standard equip so they will have to stay as they don't need changing at the moment
I will be replacing front drop links ,rears i have already done, and will get some poly roll bar bushes . Got my eye on some hawk ceramic pads anyway and the car may be lowered by march
any suggestions for anything else that would be a good idea just bear in mind this will be my first time on a track
Tyres at the moment are bridgestone 40's standard equip so they will have to stay as they don't need changing at the moment
I will be replacing front drop links ,rears i have already done, and will get some poly roll bar bushes . Got my eye on some hawk ceramic pads anyway and the car may be lowered by march
any suggestions for anything else that would be a good idea just bear in mind this will be my first time on a track
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Re: very basic track stuff
In all honesty I think you'd be fine. You need decent tread on your tyres, and some upgraded pads (EBC maybe) would be an idea as you'll burn through standard ones very quickly.
I would suggest an oil change a few hundred miles before, and bring a litre or so to top up as you'll burn it at a heck of a rate. Make sure coolant and stuff is topped up but it's very capable in standard form and you'll be pleasantly surprised.
I would suggest an oil change a few hundred miles before, and bring a litre or so to top up as you'll burn it at a heck of a rate. Make sure coolant and stuff is topped up but it's very capable in standard form and you'll be pleasantly surprised.
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Re: very basic track stuff
A standard car with yellow stuff pads is absolutely fine for your first trackday
If its wet those tyres will not be great tho
If its wet those tyres will not be great tho
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Re: very basic track stuff
If you do switch to new tyres make sure you scrub them up before you get to the track taking them through a few heat cycles .. 300-500 miles or so is adequate
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Re: very basic track stuff
Warning Trackday's are very addictive Carl
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Re: very basic track stuff
First go on track, stay stock, just make sure you've got tread on your tyres and meat on the brake pads.
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Re: very basic track stuff
Have a read of this thread too http://www.rx8ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vi ... 00&t=47963
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Re: very basic track stuff
Carl, just so you know, you already have Poly bushes that will have been fitted along with your new Racing Beat Roll bars.
p.s. The ceramic pads you mention really are for road use only and not for track work, really designed for those who want to keep their wheels free from brake dust
Hope this helps
p.s. The ceramic pads you mention really are for road use only and not for track work, really designed for those who want to keep their wheels free from brake dust
Hope this helps
REgards
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very basic track stuff
Don't think I would go to a high speed track with stock pads and fluids (200kmh and then into a hair pin can't be good with stock pads). Otherwise stock should be ok.
I would probably get some coil overs next.
(also having crashed once, harness would be pretty high on my list even if it's not strictly needed)
I would probably get some coil overs next.
(also having crashed once, harness would be pretty high on my list even if it's not strictly needed)
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Re: very basic track stuff
Fitting a harness is a bit OTT for a road car but [urlw=http://www.rx8ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vi ... 00&t=49359]the CG-Lock[/urlw] works very well on the track and many of us choose to keep it fitted on the road, where it helps hold you secure in the seat under firm braking and spirited cornering.
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Re: very basic track stuff
A brake fluid change is wise - old fluid will boil at a much lower temperature, as it absorbs moisture over time, lowering its temperature resistance. This will result in a 'long pedal' and significantly reduced braking performance. A sprint is likely to be worse as there is generally little time for the brakes to cool before they are used again.
Other than checking all fluids and monitoring tyre wear, a stock car should be fine. Remember to put your towing eyes in!
We have a little section on track prep here if you are interested. The first page has some info on what to expect, the second on the vehicle and bits and pieces it would be worth taking:
http://www.macgracing.co.uk/trackdays_tips.shtml
Good luck and enjoy!
Other than checking all fluids and monitoring tyre wear, a stock car should be fine. Remember to put your towing eyes in!
We have a little section on track prep here if you are interested. The first page has some info on what to expect, the second on the vehicle and bits and pieces it would be worth taking:
http://www.macgracing.co.uk/trackdays_tips.shtml
Good luck and enjoy!
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Re: very basic track stuff
Yeah all advice above is good.
1. Check all fluids, and have top up oil available.
2. TAKE IT EASY & HAVE FUN. Your first go is the time to enjoy and learn not to try and set a lap record!
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3. Use Protek R for extra protection
1. Check all fluids, and have top up oil available.
2. TAKE IT EASY & HAVE FUN. Your first go is the time to enjoy and learn not to try and set a lap record!
On a Pettit advice level. :
3. Use Protek R for extra protection
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Re: very basic track stuff
My first time out, I had OEM pads on. They took it, but I had to strictly limit the number of laps, and then my aged brake fluid cooked and that brought things to an end.
Sprint won't need any adjustments, indeed harder pads may not bite properly until you've zoomed around half of the loop. Track time has the potential to completely hose your brakes and tyres if you behave like a loon. Keep the stints fairly short, and try not to do a Zongoose. He turned yellowstuff pads into vapour doing long stints and had to grind his way to a halt. To his credit he then bunged more pads in and went back out for more!
Sprint won't need any adjustments, indeed harder pads may not bite properly until you've zoomed around half of the loop. Track time has the potential to completely hose your brakes and tyres if you behave like a loon. Keep the stints fairly short, and try not to do a Zongoose. He turned yellowstuff pads into vapour doing long stints and had to grind his way to a halt. To his credit he then bunged more pads in and went back out for more!
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Re: very basic track stuff
I did a trackday with everything standard!
Take a spare tyre I speak from experience.
Take a spare tyre I speak from experience.
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Re: very basic track stuff
I did my first six or so completely standard including pads. So my advice would be to start standard and take it from there.
Bob
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Re: very basic track stuff
My GT is still all standard apart from New Tyres and a Strut Bar under the bonnet
Done 12 trackdays on the same Pads and car done over 21,000 miles
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Done 12 trackdays on the same Pads and car done over 21,000 miles
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Re: very basic track stuff
I did my first trackday with a stock car with no problems. As long as the car has been well maintained and fluids are good, you'll be fine.
Good advice above on;
- brake fluid change (if old or unsure)
- bring spare front pads (just in case), or change for something more track oriented
My car has completed over 40 trackdays now (plus some airfield fundays, short sprints and autosolos) but it's no longer stock As has been said, the handling of these cars (stock) on track is addictive, and can be improved even further with some tweaks.
Good advice above on;
- brake fluid change (if old or unsure)
- bring spare front pads (just in case), or change for something more track oriented
My car has completed over 40 trackdays now (plus some airfield fundays, short sprints and autosolos) but it's no longer stock As has been said, the handling of these cars (stock) on track is addictive, and can be improved even further with some tweaks.
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Re: very basic track stuff
IMO using new race brake fluid and new track pads (I like Yellowstuff) is a wise investment as not only will it give you safety and performance but also save you heartache - I've seen too many people waste too much time with ruined pads and/or squishy pedals.
Note also that you need to check both pads on a wheel; the inside pads (the ones you can't see easily) wear quicker than the outsides and wear out rapidly once they're down to 1/3 left. Take it from someone who screwed up once, running out of inside pad is no fun.
Note also that you need to check both pads on a wheel; the inside pads (the ones you can't see easily) wear quicker than the outsides and wear out rapidly once they're down to 1/3 left. Take it from someone who screwed up once, running out of inside pad is no fun.
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Re: very basic track stuff
as above mate a good service replacing everything and you'll be fine,
good tyres/pads and new brake fluid and coolant are a must bring a few tools with you and some oil
good tyres/pads and new brake fluid and coolant are a must bring a few tools with you and some oil
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Re: very basic track stuff
Too true.WildMan10 wrote: Note also that you need to check both pads on a wheel; the inside pads (the ones you can't see easily) wear quicker than the outsides and wear out rapidly once they're down to 1/3 left. Take it from someone who screwed up once, running out of inside pad is no fun.
When the caliper sliders stick, the inner pad can wear down to the metal while the outer pad can remain almost new. We've had a member's car here in that state, that passed its MOT only a few days before.
Even if the sliders are fine, it's always the inner pad that makes contact first and brakes contact last, so it wears more. I've never understood why they don't make the inner pad thicker and the outer pad thinner.
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Re: very basic track stuff
If you are running FL-22 long-life coolant (check your rad cap to check if it says FL-22, and the coolant looks dark green) then that's rated as good for 10 years, so no need to change if done to schedule. I've had that stuff in my car for 10 years and changed it this week (after ten years). The fluid that came out looked incredibly good, and it only ever gave me a problem in EXTREMELY hot track conditions (ambients of 25+C and full sun), towards the very end of sessions, and only towards the very end of a full day on track.JoeLanger wrote:as above mate a good service replacing everything and you'll be fine,
good tyres/pads and new brake fluid and coolant are a must bring a few tools with you and some oil
Good point about the tools. On all the days I attend/organise I (plus a few others) bring along pretty much any tools, jacks, etc, to do most routine jobs, such as brake pad changes, so don't worry if you don't have a full set of tools to bring along.
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Federal 595RS-R or Rainsport 3
Seibon Carbon Fibre Bonnet, "Racing Brake" front calipers, Racing Beat (RB) ARB's F&R, RB REVI intake, full RB Stainless Steel Exhaust & Mani, 20mm Eibach spacers, KOYO Ali Rad, Lightened Fly, Tein MonoFlex coilovers & strut brace, Axial short-shifter, BHR Coils & Engine Mounts, Greddy Sump
Federal 595RS-R or Rainsport 3
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Re: very basic track stuff
. . . . and the club members that come to track days readily jump in to help others with problems, giving advice, lending a dirty hand, lending tools and even lending parts. They made my first track days so much more relaxed.
Ian
Now back to one, a white R3. Gone but not forgotten: 04 Tit Grey 231, 06 Copper Red Evolve (231), 09 VR R3, 10 Aurora Blue R3, 06 Black PZ; RX87 13BREW project car ;-( ; 04 White with Greddy turbo conversion ;-(
Buying a used RX8 turbo is like marrying a stripper.
Beware - older people may be cr@p drivers but they can afford better lawyers
Now back to one, a white R3. Gone but not forgotten: 04 Tit Grey 231, 06 Copper Red Evolve (231), 09 VR R3, 10 Aurora Blue R3, 06 Black PZ; RX87 13BREW project car ;-( ; 04 White with Greddy turbo conversion ;-(
Buying a used RX8 turbo is like marrying a stripper.
Beware - older people may be cr@p drivers but they can afford better lawyers
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Re: very basic track stuff
We did our first track day in a completely standard car, and it was great fun. If it's your first time and you don't push it too hard, you'll likely not need any spares - we didn't have to replace anything at all after Blyton (although we did take some fresh brake pads just in case). I've since uprated the front drop links, swapped the standard brake lines for braided ones, swapped all of the brake pads to Red Stuff, and bled some new fluid through. This weekend I'm hoping to change the gearbox oil in readiness for our next session on Friday, but aside from those minor updates the car is still as it was when it rolled off the production line. Except nearly 70,000 miles older
Like the others have said, take some spare oil with you but be sure to only top it off to about 3/4 full. You can always add more during the breaks, but it would be a pain in the neck to clean your airbox and filter if the engine burped as they rather like to.
Also I'll second Warpc0il's statement about the CG-Lock, we got 2 of those and they are magnificent.
Like the others have said, take some spare oil with you but be sure to only top it off to about 3/4 full. You can always add more during the breaks, but it would be a pain in the neck to clean your airbox and filter if the engine burped as they rather like to.
Also I'll second Warpc0il's statement about the CG-Lock, we got 2 of those and they are magnificent.
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