RR54 SC Track Project

[PaulAV]

Chris from what I've seen of body repair welding, it's common to link up a series of spots rather than try to weld in continuous lengths, usually a few spots are welded to tack the panel in place, then these are gradually joined together with further spots. This avoids localised heat build up. Hope this doesn't sound like I'm trying to teach you to weld as I'm no expert, it's just based on all the YouTube shows I've been watching where people weld thier cars

[Yorindesarin]

Stitch welding does indeed seem the most prominent way to do body welds for the mentioned localised heat. It also makes your life a lot easier since you're only focusing on a small section at a time getting enough penetration etc.

[Pingping010101]

An inexperienced welder is almost guaranteed to blow a hole in thin sheet if they try to weld in a continuous run as it’s so quick to overheat. This will be frustrating and lead to a messy job.

Equally, many inexperienced welders put a lot of filler material on top of the parent metal, with little penetration, so it looks like a fat worm on top of the steel. Spot welding will help avoid this and encourage better penetration as one can use more heat without blowing big holes for a cleaner, stronger repair.


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[ChrisHolmes]

It’s an iPhone image so may we’ll be upside down!
Decided to spin the engine out of T200 CAD over and squirt some oil into the chambers. I was most surprised when a load of water flew out of the plug holes! I hadn’t drained the block when I removed the engine but it wasn’t FL22 that came out.
The inlet manifold was still on the engine and all the ports were taped over plus had a nitrile glove stretched over them so how the water got in is beyond me. It seemed too much for condensation but I am at a loss as to where it came from.
Got other things to do on the car but will strip the engine tomorrow to stop any further rust damage, not amused really as tge engine has only done about 5k!

[nightfire10]

It’s an iPhone image so may we’ll be upside down!
Decided to spin the engine out of T200 CAD over and squirt some oil into the chambers. I was most surprised when a load of water flew out of the plug holes! I hadn’t drained the block when I removed the engine but it wasn’t FL22 that came out.
The inlet manifold was still on the engine and all the ports were taped over plus had a nitrile glove stretched over them so how the water got in is beyond me. It seemed too much for condensation but I am at a loss as to where it came from.
Got other things to do on the car but will strip the engine tomorrow to stop any further rust damage, not amused really as tge engine has only done about 5k!

I could take it off your hands and look after it

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[ChrisHolmes]

It’s an iPhone image so may we’ll be upside down!
Decided to spin the engine out of T200 CAD over and squirt some oil into the chambers. I was most surprised when a load of water flew out of the plug holes! I hadn’t drained the block when I removed the engine but it wasn’t FL22 that came out.
The inlet manifold was still on the engine and all the ports were taped over plus had a nitrile glove stretched over them so how the water got in is beyond me. It seemed too much for condensation but I am at a loss as to where it came from.
Got other things to do on the car but will strip the engine tomorrow to stop any further rust damage, not amused really as tge engine has only done about 5k!

I could take it off your hands and look after it

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But then I wouldn’t have three engines, one in RR54 running, one watery one out of T200 and one more that could be made out of my accumulated parts as I have two refurbished housings and a set of bridge ported irons sitting under my bench.

[PaulAV]

Has the third engine been bench tested Chris

[Vj4sothername]

Surely 4, or is there a big hole in the Nemesis that I've forgotten?

[ChrisHolmes]

Oh yes, forgot I had bought that!

[ChrisHolmes]

Has the third engine been bench tested Chris

For about two years!

[nightfire10]

Stripped the engine, this is the SC engine from T200 not from RR54, this morning and the water was in the primary inlet. Still cannot fathom how it got in there but fortunately no major rust damage to the rotors or the irons.
The irons are still serviceable but the housings have chatter lines and grooving plus there is some chrome flaking in one.
The Goopy apex seals are badly worn on the flanks, 0.006" down on the original thickness, and they consequently are very slack in the rotor grooves.
So its refurbished housings for the build when I get round to doing that and fortunately I have a spare set from last year.

[warpc0il]

I recall that Tony said that engine needed a strip and rebuild, so that's all to be expected.

Goopy seals do tend to be much harder on all the surfaces that they contact and there's a fail amount of evidence for that. Do you know how many miles it had been?

The water in the inlet is strange but there must be a logic explanation...

[ChrisHolmes]

I recall that Tony said that engine needed a strip and rebuild, so that's all to be expected.

Goopy seals do tend to be much harder on all the surfaces that they contact and there's a fail amount of evidence for that. Do you know how many miles it had been?

The water in the inlet is strange but there must be a logic explanation...

The engine that was in the car when I bought it died after two months and this one that I just stripped is the replacement that I built and it has done c6000 miles and 3 track days.
Its the wear on the sides of the seals that I think is excessive for the mileage. I have not checked the height yet but will do when I get round to cleaning and measuring stuff for the rebuild over the winter

[Vj4sothername]

Working on prepping the car pending Luke coming next wednesday to swap out the subframes but keep sidetracking myself doing other little jobs.
Painted the exhaust shrouds gloss black to match the Mazdaspeed skirts.
The front repeaters had taken on aquarium status. I think I will try my orange ones in there but reckon they will clash with the red.

[warpc0il]

The engine that was in the car when I bought it died after two months and this one that I just stripped is the replacement that I built and it has done c6000 miles and 3 track days.
Its the wear on the sides of the seals that I think is excessive for the mileage. I have not checked the height yet but will do when I get round to cleaning and measuring stuff for the rebuild over the winter

I'm losing track of this musical chairs with engines

That does look like a lot of wear for 6k miles

[ChrisHolmes]

The engine that was in the car when I bought it died after two months and this one that I just stripped is the replacement that I built and it has done c6000 miles and 3 track days.
Its the wear on the sides of the seals that I think is excessive for the mileage. I have not checked the height yet but will do when I get round to cleaning and measuring stuff for the rebuild over the winter

I'm losing track of this musical chairs with engines

That does look like a lot of wear for 6k miles

Yep, been doing a load of web research on apex seal wear, particularly Goopies and conclude it’s down to a combination of too much heat in the rotors and insufficient lubrication. I did cook the motor twice which cannot have helped. Next SC build will get modified rotor housings and upgraded radiator.

[Yorindesarin]

Still going to use Goopie seals in the next rebuild Chris?

[ChrisHolmes]

Yes as insurance in case of detonation in the SC engine.

[mrspiller]

Working on prepping the car pending Luke coming next wednesday to swap out the subframes but keep sidetracking myself doing other little jobs.
Painted the exhaust shrouds gloss black to match the Mazdaspeed skirts.
The front repeaters had taken on aquarium status. I think I will try my orange ones in there but reckon they will clash with the red.

That’s a first for me
Never seen water in front repeater before


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[ChrisHolmes]

Working on prepping the car pending Luke coming next wednesday to swap out the subframes but keep sidetracking myself doing other little jobs.
Painted the exhaust shrouds gloss black to match the Mazdaspeed skirts.
The front repeaters had taken on aquarium status. I think I will try my orange ones in there but reckon they will clash with the red.

That’s a first for me
Never seen water in front repeater before


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This is the ex Ranjan devil car so I expect it to do odd things.

[Yorindesarin]

Both of my front side markers had a little bit of water in them/have had (hence why I had to clean them out) not quite to that extreme though!

[ChrisHolmes]

Fortunately I have a few spares including some orange ones.

[PaulAV]

Not sure if HME seals might be better for you, the guys have been making them for rotaries for decades and I believe they were really well respected amongst the performance rotary scene. Skindred knows of them from when he lived in NZ

[ChrisHolmes]

HME as in Hurley Motor Engineering?

[PaulAV]

Yes mate.