Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

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cib24
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Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by cib24 » Sun Apr 26, 2015 11:06 pm

Last Sunday I finally picked up my RX-7 but before I start working on the RX-7 I thought it was worth paying tribute to my RX-8 one last time as it sold this evening (26 April). The following photos are of both cars parked next to one another and they are the last photos I ever took of the RX-8. The RX-8 is freshly washed and detailed whilst the RX-7 hasn't been washed yet which is why it doesn't look as shiny!

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1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Mods - Apexi PFC @ 1.00-1.06 bar, AEM WI 250cc/min, Knight Sports DP, RE-A 80mm cat, Fujitsubo exhaust, Greddy SMIC, Koyo N-Flow, Ohlins DFVs, poly bushings, Dixcel FP 17" discs , 17"x8" BBS RG-R, Nankang NS-2R, Project Mu pads.

398 Bhp (340 Whp) @ 6,036 RPM, 350-360 lb/ft (299-307 Wlb/ft) @ 2,900 - 6,100 RPM. - 12 Nov 17

My Build Thread

chriswilloughby
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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by chriswilloughby » Sun Apr 26, 2015 11:29 pm

Very very nice :)
RX8 R3-Rotary Revs D585 coils and leads-Looked after by Sir Rotary of Revs and me, oh and Oily aka Darren-Mini Map for D585's-20mm Spacers-Decatted

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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by ChrisHolmes » Sun Apr 26, 2015 11:39 pm

Very very very nice
Bridge Ported 231
Light weight Flywheel
Tein MonoSports with EDFC Active
Racing Beat F&R ARBs
Racing Brake 4 Pot Front Calipers
Racing Brake two piece slotted & drilled discs
LED Rear Lights
LED 3rd Brake light with blink effect
MazdaSpeed sills
Safety Devices Full cage
Royal Steering wheel
Short shifter
Mishimoto Catch Tank

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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by GreySilver Beast » Mon Apr 27, 2015 12:37 am

Oohhhhhhhhh

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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by mikejenkins » Mon Apr 27, 2015 8:02 am

Beautiful - I must get myself a standard 99 spec RX7 soon.

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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by acegeezer » Mon Apr 27, 2015 8:14 am

Looks really fantastic Roy.. you did well my friend.. the rex was also a credit to you :thumleft:

Good luck with your 7 ;)
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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by casey » Mon Apr 27, 2015 8:43 am

=D> =D> Great looking RX-7 you have there Roy 8)

Is it likely the new RX-8 owner will turn up on the forum?
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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by cib24 » Mon Apr 27, 2015 9:15 am

Yes, my wallet is ready for FD ownership...Well, we'll find out at least, haha.

The new RX-8 owner is a former RX-8 owner and is on here already with a few thousand forum posts. He seems like a really good guy and I'm sure he will take care of the RX-8 as much as I did.
1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Mods - Apexi PFC @ 1.00-1.06 bar, AEM WI 250cc/min, Knight Sports DP, RE-A 80mm cat, Fujitsubo exhaust, Greddy SMIC, Koyo N-Flow, Ohlins DFVs, poly bushings, Dixcel FP 17" discs , 17"x8" BBS RG-R, Nankang NS-2R, Project Mu pads.

398 Bhp (340 Whp) @ 6,036 RPM, 350-360 lb/ft (299-307 Wlb/ft) @ 2,900 - 6,100 RPM. - 12 Nov 17

My Build Thread

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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by Andy1969 » Mon Apr 27, 2015 10:36 am

Beautiful car!! =P~ =P~ =P~
07/2011 - 2015 55 BB 192 - RIP :(
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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by casey » Mon Apr 27, 2015 10:57 am

Excellent - the new owner of your RX-8 has already posted up;

[urlw=http://www.rx8ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vi ... 35&t=64442]LINK[/urlw]

So glad we'll still get to hear about her on here :D
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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by Murf » Mon Apr 27, 2015 12:03 pm

I thought I recognized the area then kept going through the pics -- I live just down the road near South Quay station, will definitely be keeping my eye out for this out and about!
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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by cib24 » Thu May 07, 2015 10:12 pm

My plan is to keep the car on the stock 99-spec twins and try to make somewhere between 300-350 bhp so today (7 May) I took the car to Hayward Rotary for a full check-over of the engine, drivetrain, suspension, etc. to see where everything stood and came away very pleased.

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The car was compression tested with a genuine Mazda rotary tester and the starter motor was cranking at 265 RPM. As the car was cranking, the team said it sounded very healthy. The corrected results at 250 rpm are (in bar):

Front rotor: 7.7, 7.6, 7.6

Rear rotor: 8.0, 8.0, 8.0

Carl and his team inspected the entire engine from top to bottom (except they didn't individually check each solenoid), checked the coolant and brake fluid levels, vacuum hoses, all pipe work, engine mounts, front and rear suspension and diff bushings, rotors, calipers, etc. and also took it for a test drive to ensure the car ran alright, boosted correctly, the transmission shifted properly, etc.

We had a chance to look under the car very closely once it was up in the air and we were able to confirm how clean the chassis and suspension is and I was also able to confirm that the down pipe and catalytic converter were stock units. The visual inspection picked up the following:
  • Brake Fluid reservoir cap is broken and needs to be replaced;
  • Rear turbo has the slightest oil leak. It is not dripping at all but is just a touch damp at the bottom front of it. I was advised to not worry about it for now and run it until the turbos go south sometime in the future;
  • Rear passenger-side brake disc has over heated and is scored so both rear discs will need to be replaced;
  • Passenger-side top pillowball bushing needs to be replaced;
  • Drivers-side lower pillowball bushing needs to be replaced;
  • Main differential bushing has burst and is leaking oil and needs to be replaced;
  • Catalytic converter is slightly dented but works fine;
  • Fujitsubo cat-back exhaust reduces within the muffler to about 2.5 inches rather than remaining a full 3 inches; and
  • Blitz coilovers suspension should be replaced if I want to use this car on the track.
We then took the car out for a drive (Carl was driving) and confirmed that the turbos were spooling correctly in any gear and at any time he depressed the throttle. He also said the idle was fantastic, the transmission shifted very well and that the car was very stable. He noted that one of my wheels needs to be rebalanced as there is quite a bit of vibration in the steering wheel (I have noticed this too but thought it might be the way the Momo wheel was attached) and he didn't like the coilovers.

Overall, Carl and his team were extremely impressed with the car's condition and he said that considering how well it runs and the condition of the rest of the mechanicals, if it were his car he would keep the mods light and just focus on the suspension, brakes and tires. His ideology is if it isn't broken then there is no sense in replacing it or fixing it unless you are looking to make significantly more power.

He recommended a 3 inch silenced decat, a proper 3" cat-back and a Power FC with a tune. With this he said I could expect about 300 bhp at 12-13 psi (0.83-0.9 bar). Contrary to what I have researched online, he does not recommend changing the AST if it is in good shape as he thinks most aftermarket units don't seal as well and in his experience very few RX-7s he has worked on have had the ASTs crack and start leaking. Also, at this power level he said that the stock intercooler is more than sufficient for track days as is the S8 radiator with the additional airflow from the 99 spec bumper. He also had some sympathy for rewiring the fuel pump but he didn't specifically say anything about needing to change the ignition coils.

He said if I wanted to try for up to 350 bhp on the twins then I should look into 1680CC secondary injectors, HKS down pipe and an intercooler (front mount or v mount) as a minimum but that the turbos would not last long at 1.0 bar or higher of boost when tracking the car often.

On the suspension side of things he really likes the Tein Street Flex coilovers as a good compromise for street/track use which also aren't too expensive (Ohlin's if you have the budget), uprated anti-roll bars (either Racing Beat or Cusco), stock RS brakes (but admits a good big brake kit is night and day), braded brake lines, and uprated brake pads (he prefers Hawk HP+ but advises that they will not be nice to discs and will damage wheels with all of the brake dust). For tires which will be used on the street and track he says the Federal 595 RSR tires are really good for the price, if you want to spend a bit more the Yokohama AD08s are amazing, and if you want to spend even more then he says you can't do better than the Pirelli Trofeo R's.

Overall, the visit was well worth it as I found out for certain that the car is in great mechanical condition. The next thing I have scheduled is an appointment with Super 7 Autos next week to repair the rust issues on the driver's door and the rear hatch as well as respray the following:

Driver's door - Repair rust and respray.

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Rear hatch - repair rust and respray underside of the hatch.

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Front bumper and lower diffuser - Respray.

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Headlight covers - Remove and replace headlight air vent and respray both headlight covers.

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Brake vents - Respray.

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Front Passenger Side Wing - Fix flat spot and respray.

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Door Mirrors - Respray both.

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Body kit - Remove and respray as it desperately needs to be touched up.

Sills - Clean up when body kit is removed and if necessary respray.

Depending on the price of things I may just look into respraying the entire car but I would rather use the money saved on:
  • Reupholstering the seats;
  • Replacing all of the speakers;
  • Installing the Toad Cat 1 alarm I have brand new in a box;
  • Installing sound deadening in various locations;
  • Fixing as many interior rattles as possible;
  • Buying a few new OEM interior items to make the interior nicer;
  • Replacing all window trim, the front cowl, exterior door mirror triangles, side markers, windshield wipers, etc.;
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  • Take the car for preventative rust treatment to top up the waxoyl and inject cavity wax everywhere;
  • Fix the mechanical issues that were identified above, buy new brake pads, different coilovers, stickier rubber in the right size (235/45R17 Front, 255/40R17 Rear), decat and Power FC tune;
  • Have the car aligned and geo'd;
  • Take the car to Offset Detailing for a paint correction detail/valet of the entire exterior, engine bay, interior, wheels, etc.; and
  • Finally, go to Snetterton or Oulton Park before the end of July!
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tractorboy (Thu May 07, 2015 10:41 pm)
1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Mods - Apexi PFC @ 1.00-1.06 bar, AEM WI 250cc/min, Knight Sports DP, RE-A 80mm cat, Fujitsubo exhaust, Greddy SMIC, Koyo N-Flow, Ohlins DFVs, poly bushings, Dixcel FP 17" discs , 17"x8" BBS RG-R, Nankang NS-2R, Project Mu pads.

398 Bhp (340 Whp) @ 6,036 RPM, 350-360 lb/ft (299-307 Wlb/ft) @ 2,900 - 6,100 RPM. - 12 Nov 17

My Build Thread

chriswilloughby
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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by chriswilloughby » Thu May 07, 2015 11:30 pm

:inlove: This is going to be beautiful :inlove:
RX8 R3-Rotary Revs D585 coils and leads-Looked after by Sir Rotary of Revs and me, oh and Oily aka Darren-Mini Map for D585's-20mm Spacers-Decatted

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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by minisaki » Fri May 08, 2015 10:37 am

Going to look epic mate :thumleft:
Brilliant black 192.
Carbon fibre vented bonnet, carbon fibre boot, carbon fibre Mazdaspeed spoiler, carbon fibre eyebrows, carbon fibre strakes, carbon fibre b-pillers, carbon fibre mirrors, K-Sport 8 pots, Japan Racing Wheels, Meister R CRD+, 10w50 fully synthetic, Castrol 2t racing pre mix and sohn Fed. red lined like she should be. :thumleft: :thumleft:

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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by cib24 » Tue May 12, 2015 11:15 pm

Last night I placed an order for a bunch of crap from RHDJapan and I probably don't need all of it. I bought:

OEM Side Lights/Reflectors - Current ones are ugly

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New Windshield Wipers Front and Rear - Current ones are corroded

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OEM Rear Window Moulding and Clip - Current moulding is coming off

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OEM Cowl Grille and Caps - Current grille is faded as hell

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OEM Brake Reservoir Cap - Currently split open

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OEM Dealer Option Centre Console Pad - Currently broken

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OEM Air Temperature and Fan Switch Knobs (Really didn't need to buy these new) - Currently faded

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RE-Amemiya D1 Short Shifter - Don't like stock shifter so will try this out

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RE-Amemiya Black Gear Knob - Hate the aftermarket gear knob in my car right now

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Apexi Power FC and El Commander for Series 8 RX-7 - Essential and cannot find used ones for Series 8s very often

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Next, it's off to the body shop either at the end of this week or on Monday followed by some rust preventative treatment amongst other things over the next 6 weeks. In the meantime I'm trying to plan out the next steps for the car in terms of modifications as I'm now thinking of keeping boost at 0.8-0.85 bar (up from the factory 0.74 bar) considering the fact that the rear turbo has the slightest bit of dampness and I don't want to blow them immediately given that 99 spec twins are hard to come by unless you want to spend a fortune buying them new. So, my new aim is 290-310 bhp and a larger focus on suspension, brakes and tires. So, I have to decide on:

Short Term
  • Replace all speakers with quality stock-sized units that won't sound horrible. At the moment I know nothing about car audio.
  • Buy new rear RS brakes or 4x Dixcels FS/FP Fronts and HD Rears.
  • Ferodo DS2500, Carbotech XP8, Carbone Lorraine RC6 or Hawk HP+ pads. Perhaps I only need a more aggressive pad on the fronts. Also source quality brake lines and switch to Motul RBF600 or 660.
  • Source bushings which need replacing (i.e. two pillowballs and one differential bushing).
  • Ohlins DFV (if at a good price like on the forums a few weeks ago), Tein Monoflex or other. I know Ohlins are the business but I have read several stories online that they corrode easily and thus end up failing early which isn't great to hear considering where we live.
  • Tires - Federal, Yokohama, Pirelli, etc. Ideally they will not overheat in less than 15-20 minutes on the track and will not try to kill me when it's wet.
  • Improve radiator and intercooler ducting via blocking off passageways around the cores with foam or something else. In the long-term I really like the Knight Sports SMIC but it costs a fortune and at that price a FMIC is probably better. I've decided a Vmount is not for me as it would change too much of the car and I want to keep my RS looking relatively OEM.
  • Silenced mid pipe or 100/200 cell high flow cat.
  • Remap and tune for 0.8-0.85 bar.
  • Secure in-car camera mounting system for either phone or GoPro along with figuring out how to monitor RPM, speed, gear, etc. like you can with OBD II cars. I plan to record my track sessions and overlay the videos with relevant information like I did when I had the RX-8.
Medium Term
  • Gauges - Still deciding. I thought about the Defi Advance ZD but I'm not sure about it after seeing it in action. Seems very overpriced.
  • Chassis Bracing Options - Differential brace, transmission brace, poly engine mounts, front and rear strut bars. I won't get all of them because then the car will be un-streetable but I am currently researching the best combination. Thinking poly engine mounts, a differential brace and uprated strut bars should do it.
  • Front anti-roll bar - Cusco, Racing Beat, etc.
  • HKS down pipe? Not really sure if it is necessary for the power levels I am looking for.
  • Research water injection, in particular if I can't decide on an intercooler solution in the short to medium term. Need to research reservoir size and location along with the minimum amount needed to inject to last a 15-20 minute track session, reduce hp loss and keep intake temps reasonable.
I will also consider an HKS Twin Spark, uprated fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, etc. if I decide to go for more power and/or experience issues on the track.
1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Mods - Apexi PFC @ 1.00-1.06 bar, AEM WI 250cc/min, Knight Sports DP, RE-A 80mm cat, Fujitsubo exhaust, Greddy SMIC, Koyo N-Flow, Ohlins DFVs, poly bushings, Dixcel FP 17" discs , 17"x8" BBS RG-R, Nankang NS-2R, Project Mu pads.

398 Bhp (340 Whp) @ 6,036 RPM, 350-360 lb/ft (299-307 Wlb/ft) @ 2,900 - 6,100 RPM. - 12 Nov 17

My Build Thread

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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by GreySilver Beast » Wed May 13, 2015 5:06 pm

Look forward to seeing your car sometime a rather Roy =D> =D> =D> =D>
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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by cib24 » Mon May 18, 2015 6:33 pm

I should have bought a boat considering the fact that I'm going to end up spending so much money on this car...

Dropped the car off at the body shop today and I think I'm just going to go for a full exterior respray...I mean, it's not finalised yet but I would prefer that everything matches and looks pretty...This will include repairing the rust at the bottom of the driver's door, the rust on the rear hatch, pulling any dents/dings out around the body, fixing the front passenger-side arch, fixing a crack on the front lip and respraying the rest of the body accordingly in factory Chaste White (paint code PT).

At the body shop we raised the car up to get a better look at the side skirts etc. to check for further issues or rust and I took the opportunity to look at my turbos again. There seems to be more oil than I remembered seeing at Hayward Rotary the other day, in particular there was oil on the front turbo this time as well and it was damp on the nearby lines and intake. These signs are not good but let's assume that I replace them (which will delay the intercooler decision and water injection). I'm thinking of two routes:
  • Take a gamble on a good used set of twins, whether 99 Spec or early spec - £650-800 including professional install; or
  • Utilise the Super 7 Autos rebuild service to have the 99 Spec twins rebuilt with all new parts and have upgraded oil seals installed that are designed to withstand higher temperatures - North of £1250.
I also recognize that with the Power FC that is coming it will be a good idea to get a down pipe and a silenced mid pipe to go with it and a tune.

On the suspension front I nearly bought Ohlins last night but held off as I won't have the car ready to go racing for a little bit anyway. The Blitz coilovers actually aren't that bad when you increase the damping but they do ride pretty hard. There are 32 adjustments and basically only the first 10 adjustments are useable on the street and if I'm honest any more than 8 clicks from full soft is pushing it when driving within the M25 given how bad the roads are. I know that Ohlins are in a different league altogether but I have had two Mazda rotary specialists tell me that the Tein Street Flex is a good compromise between road and track at half the price. I will have to consider it a bit further.

Finally, a more random question but I have a Toad Ai606 alarm system brand new in the box that I want installed on my RX-7 but I am not sure how much it costs to have a professionally certified installer do the work. For those that have had an alarm system installed on a car before what is the going rate?

This car is seriously going to be the death of me as at the very least I still need new rear brakes, brake pads, replace the differential bushing, tires and an alignment before hitting the track! I've debated trying to cut costs by just mapping the car with the current mods at 0.9 bar but once I replace the mid pipe and down pipe I will just need to have it mapped again anyway!

If all I wanted to do was drive it on the street I would be perfectly happy with how it drives now, but I didn't buy the car to cruise around at 70 mph or less! I bought it to abuse it at places like Snetterton and Oulton Park! My wife keeps telling me I should have just bought a new car like the new Subaru STI as I would have not had to do any "restoring" since I am very OCD about my cars. The problem is even if I bought a new STI (on Finance which would have sucked) I would still want to modify the sh*t out of it so I would be in an even larger hole...All I know is this RX-7 needs to be worth it and I need to hold onto it for at least 5 years...
1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Mods - Apexi PFC @ 1.00-1.06 bar, AEM WI 250cc/min, Knight Sports DP, RE-A 80mm cat, Fujitsubo exhaust, Greddy SMIC, Koyo N-Flow, Ohlins DFVs, poly bushings, Dixcel FP 17" discs , 17"x8" BBS RG-R, Nankang NS-2R, Project Mu pads.

398 Bhp (340 Whp) @ 6,036 RPM, 350-360 lb/ft (299-307 Wlb/ft) @ 2,900 - 6,100 RPM. - 12 Nov 17

My Build Thread

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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by Ranjan » Tue May 19, 2015 11:36 am

Roy,

Just my tuppence worth; I have twice been down the buying second-hand turbos route and each time it cost me more than if I had bought the damn things new - BUY new and get peace of mind; and a proper warranty.
Also, ditch the Blitz as soon as you can, cheap internals make it a nightmare to control and set up. Get the Ohlins; I know they are expensive but they are completely rebuildable so you never need buy another set; they have proper valved internals that work; the customer service is superb and their network of official service agents are all over the country and really, really know their stuff. They will help you set them up for you and your particular car and not just fit them and say goodbye. They are the best for a reason.

Ranjan

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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by cib24 » Tue May 19, 2015 5:36 pm

Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately new 99-spec twins are over £2,500 from everywhere I have looked so buying used twins seems to be the way to go as they are £150-£300 on average (just a pain in the ass to install yourself without a proper lift) or you risk spending more to rebuild them. Unfortunately, most rebuilds don't last for whatever reason and typically go boom in less than 10,000 miles if not rebuilt with the correct parts and balanced properly. I would consider going single turbo but then it turns into a much more expensive exercise and to be honest the twins boost style is awesome.
1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Mods - Apexi PFC @ 1.00-1.06 bar, AEM WI 250cc/min, Knight Sports DP, RE-A 80mm cat, Fujitsubo exhaust, Greddy SMIC, Koyo N-Flow, Ohlins DFVs, poly bushings, Dixcel FP 17" discs , 17"x8" BBS RG-R, Nankang NS-2R, Project Mu pads.

398 Bhp (340 Whp) @ 6,036 RPM, 350-360 lb/ft (299-307 Wlb/ft) @ 2,900 - 6,100 RPM. - 12 Nov 17

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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by Bulldog » Tue May 19, 2015 10:50 pm

Brave man :)

Thats a big project you've got on there, good luck with it
It is by going down into the abyss that we recover the treasures of life. Where you stumble, there lies your treasure.

More info in my project thread

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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by SeriousSam » Fri May 22, 2015 5:05 pm

On the audio side, make sure you get a decent head unit installed and the speaker wiring replaced at the same time as you swap the speakers - the difference a quality source will make is huge, far more than new speakers alone. Might be worth having a chat with a car audio specialist, they tend to know their stuff and can advise a good matched set of kit for either OEM replacement or a bit more of an upgrade. Also never underestimate the clout and quality of a well-mounted pair of 6x9s in the boot :D

You may also find that your local audio guy is also your local alarm guy - mine certainly was. Car Audio Solutions I believe they were called, and they were Toad specialists based in Worcester. Too far off for you I'd imagine Roy, but similar companies must exist down south.
To Do List: HKS CAMP2 install; cruise control; new exhaust; detail paintwork, possible respray

Done: Hayward Rotary rebuild and stage 2 port; Racing Beat ARBs, adjustable front droplinks, ram air intake and lightened flywheel; Exedy stage 1 clutch; Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs; Koyo radiator; heated front screen; EBC redstuff pads all round

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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by cib24 » Sat Jun 20, 2015 2:57 pm

After nearly 4 weeks I picked my car up from Super 7 Autos with a fresh exterior respray in the same Chaste White (code PT), refurbished wheels in a silver metallic which is very close to the Spirit R Type A wheels, and the Toad alarm system installed. I had to delay picking the car up because of work commitments but the wait has been worth it!

The paint looks absolutely fantastic and so much better than the 16 year old paint that was on it before. I compared the paint to Jason's (Super 7 Autos owner) 2002 Spirit R Type A which was there as well and the difference is massive (even though I really like the Pure White colour). I forgot to take a photo of my car next to the Spirit R because I was so excited to see my car and was busy checking over everything with a fine toothed comb!

The rust on the rear hatch and the lower driver's door has been repaired (and not repaired half-assed) and I'm confident I won't see any issues reappear. Most of the body components were removed and sprayed individually (spoiler, body kit, front lip, mirrors, brake vents, light covers, hood) to ensure the best finish possible. The parking dings around the car were removed and the front passenger-side wheel arch that wasn't quite round is now round again!

It's hard to show the difference in paint quality with a camera phone but needless to say the improvement over the 16 year old paint is massive.

I don't really have good photos yet but the car is scheduled for a professional detail and valet next weekend by Offset Detailing and I will make sure to take high quality photos afterwards. Here is what I have for now (excuse the bugs on the front lip spoiler and bumper):

Image

Image

The wheels arguably didn't need a refurbish as they only had a few chips and two large scratches, but I didn't like the colour so I told Jason to have the wheels refurbed professionally (with an extra coat of paint for good measure) in a silver metallic as close to his Spirit R as possible. The colour isn't quite the same but it's close and I'm really satisfied with how it has turned out:

Again, it's hard to show the difference with a camera phone and bad lighting but it's massive in person:

Old flat silver:

Image

New silver metallic (almost lightly chromed look):

Image

Today, I'm installing a bunch of Japanese goodies as part of my quest to bring the car closer to its factory glory (except for the RE-Amemiya short shifter which I want to try out):

Image

Image

Following on from that I have ordered a few more goodies from RHDJapan (love those guys as the customer service is fantastic and their prices are actually really good).

Dixcel Front and Rear 314mm FP brake rotors
I needed replacement rears but given the fact that this car will see the track and the fronts look a bit thin I thought I would try these out as they are massively cheaper than buying OEM discs:
http://www.dixcel.co.jp/en/rotor/rotor_fcr.html

Project MU HC+ Front and Rear Pads
RHDJapan had a good sale so they came out to be less than Ferodo DS2500s or Carbone Lorraine RC5+ brand new. I will probably try the others in the future though at some point.

Mazda OEM front lip
Although mine was just freshly painted white and looks fantastic I think I want to go back to a black front lip so the front looks as it is intended to look.

Mazda OEM Exterior door triangles (above the mirrors)
Mine look like sh*t currently.

Mazda OEM Door handles
Questionable whether I need them but they were cheap when considering the large order I placed and I don't like scratches and fading.

Defi DIN Gauge 3 Meter Combination and Defi Racer 60mm Boost Gauge
Defi Advance ZD was on backorder for a while and I need something to fill in the blank space above my CD player.

This means I will have a Defi Advance Link Advance Control Unit and a Defi Link Advance CR (White) 60mm water temperature gauge for sale at some point in the future.

SARD oil pan drain adapter for oil temp gauge
It was less than £3 and I know it will fit perfectly.

Cusco oil catch can -
RHDJapan had a sale and I couldn't help myself to start adding shiny bits to the engine bay.

I also bought a used Apexi Power FC and Commander (which isn't the new LED unit unfortunately), an Ultra Racing Strut Brace, and almost ridiculously the complete front and rear suspension for an FD with purple PowerFlex bushings already installed and with less than 3,000 miles (and brand new purple steering rack bushes)...Luckily they also have OEM pillowballs with less than 3,000 miles and OEM rubber bushings in the critical locations (toe link and trailing arm).

I have no idea when I will install the suspension arms and I'm a bit worried about endless squeaking but I'll try to get around to it within the next month.

Image
Last edited by cib24 on Sun Jun 21, 2015 12:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Mods - Apexi PFC @ 1.00-1.06 bar, AEM WI 250cc/min, Knight Sports DP, RE-A 80mm cat, Fujitsubo exhaust, Greddy SMIC, Koyo N-Flow, Ohlins DFVs, poly bushings, Dixcel FP 17" discs , 17"x8" BBS RG-R, Nankang NS-2R, Project Mu pads.

398 Bhp (340 Whp) @ 6,036 RPM, 350-360 lb/ft (299-307 Wlb/ft) @ 2,900 - 6,100 RPM. - 12 Nov 17

My Build Thread

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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by MARKTHOMASBRAND » Sat Jun 20, 2015 5:21 pm

Outstanding progress =D>

Regards,Mark.
Mark's : 2020 Championship White Honda Civic FK8 Type R .

Mandy's : 2019 Mazda MX-5 30th Anniversary RF # 1761/3000.

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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by japimportrx8 » Sat Jun 20, 2015 6:44 pm

This car Looks fantastic.

Subscribed.

Regards
Derry

MC53EMX - 192 Grey Auto Import

OE53HVF - 231 Sunlight Silver - Project Thread: http://www.rx8ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vi ... 04&t=60071

K71 RGP - Pearl White RX-7 FD3s Type RB - Project Thread: http://www.rx8ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vi ... 04&t=65122

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Re: Roy's 1999 Mazda RX-7 Type RS

Post by MightyCondor » Sat Jun 20, 2015 6:54 pm

That's a stunning FD

I'm loving the rate of progress that you're making with it.

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2004 Sunlight Silver 231 Impulsive Panic Buy Rotary Shed & lesser seen RX-7 FD3s
2005 Winning Blue 231 - Loved and set free (sold) :(
2004 Winning Blue 231 - Lost at the hands of a careless BMW driver

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